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This last weekend an older 2000 something DP pusher heading up Mt Vernon Canyon out of the Denver area on I 70 caught fire. It burned to the ground as well the jeep being towed. This area is steep and the local temps have been pretty high, in the upper 80s and into the mid 90s. Suggest checking all cooling systems before heading up into the high country. We had friends come through over the 4th of July. He had a really trick FOAM fire suppression system aboard and into the engine compartment . It was an uncharged foam fire suppression system which he installed. Sensors in the compartment fire a CO2 charge to set it off. It has suppression and cooling effect. Nice and simple and not all that big either.
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Have 40' ft diesel pusher (2001 Monaco) w 2 ac's. One AC (front) works fine during the day and we turn it off at night. The other AC (rear) comes on at night and works until early morning (around 7), then shuts off and will not come on again until night. Had it checked and they say it is fine. Both AC's are left on auto at 69. Any suggestions?
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- AC
- ELECTRICAL
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I thought you might benefit from this. It might save you a gob of money, in the long run. After friends sent their Discovery in for radiator service and ended up with a huge bill, I starting getting more serious about tending to mine*. Bear in mind the buddy who owned mine prior to our purchase periodically raised the closet floor and shot degreaser onto the engine and radiator, and I've done the same every six months or so in nearly two years of steady use. We had been overheating, but only under extreme conditions, eg making 2-mile constant climb at 60 mph in N. Arkansas with 100+F ambient temps (120+ against the pavement). Even then, a short downhill run with the exhaust brake on to boost rpms, or pulling over resulted in immediate return to normal. A recent trip to Galveston resulted in perfect temps, albeit with 85F outside. Still, after the trip, I applied degreaser to the aft side of the radiator, waiting 20 minutes, shot the fins with a safe blast from the hose. What looked like mouse turds showed up in the driveway. Lil' greasy mouse turds that turned into a smudge when rolled between my fingers, rather than the wholesome, nutty but slightly gritty goodness of the real thing... Clearly, the engine side of the radiator was a muffin mold of sorts for these little pellets. Using the heavy duty degreaser in a spray bottle, I hit it from the back side -- the idea was it'd pass through to the engine side -- another five or so times, waiting and rinsing each time. The next morning, I jammed a digital camera up inside the shroud and shot a series of photos. One spot on the lower right was gummed up solid, despite repeated cleaning. So, I got a gallon sprayer and loaded a 1:4 mix of the Simple Green Pro HD from Home Depot yesterday, rated safe for aluminum, sprayed the engine side of the radiator while hot, let it sit for 20 minutes and then rinsed. There was quite a difference, althought further cleaning was needed. As a result of this discovery, I'm programming a misting of degreaser up under the shroud on the engine side, after every trip. It only takes a minute or two, can be paired up with hooking up the black tank rinse, done at the same interval. Thanks for the comments below. Indeed, the moral to the story was that degreaser must always be applied to both sides of the radiator, with an emphasis on the upwind eg front side. Use good judgement to protect the delicate fins: some pressure waters have "Delicate" tips and are appropriate; if in doubt, use a hose-end sprayer.