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Need to change coolant on 02' Journey with Cummins ISB, need to find out how to insure I get the air out of the system because of the added equipment, hot water heater, the length of the vehicle, act,. to prevent airlock and prevent damage to engine. Exactly what is the drain process, drain locations, and burp procedure for this coach?

Hello, I recently purchased a 1992 Trek Safari Pathmaker. I was able to drive from the seller to home but the next morning she would not start. Called AAA and they jumped her and she drove great, today she won’t start. What am I doing wrong and why are my batteries draining. Batteries are new. She has Isuzu 4BD2-TC intercool engine, a HF12-1200U heart interface inverter with a power switch (automatic transfer switch), a generac np-52G generator and I think that’s it. I am sorry if my specs and/or questions are something I should know but I have no clue what I’m doing and I think my head might explode at this point. I have an appointment at 3:00 tomorrow 5/25/2020 to have an estimate on roof replacement and paint and I’m not sure I can get her started. Thank you, Myf

I started by finding wasted space to store the sewer hoses and connectors, I used two heater duct about 5 feet long with end caps. One is 6 inch dia and the other is 5 inch. 5 inch will work just fine. Click pictures to make larger. This show the hose going in the 5 inch duct with connectors. These ducts will hold 20 feet of hose with connectors each. I brought two ten foot plastic gutter the cheap 4 inch wide and cut off 25 inches off them to fit the length of the cargo bay. It is wasted space where I put them between the wall and cargo tray slide. This is the gutters on the ground ready to be put together to make a tray for the drain hoses. This is the two gutters snapped together to make a sliding tray for the sewer hose This is the sewer hoses laid in the gutter tray. Make the gutter tray slightly longer than needed for the sewer hose. I used 10 inch bungee cord to keep the snapped part of the gutter tray together This is the final setup to have the hose run off as best as you can get without dips to trap sewer water. I have two problems this solved, the coach is low in the rear and the campground drain would only allow the tip of the elbow to be inserted. This project to me is better and cost less than what is out there. The two gutters and bungee cords cost about $15. The duct work with caps was less than $25. This makes managing the sewer hose system so much better and less messy.

We're in the first week of ownership of a 2007 Beaver Patriot Thunder. Lots of small problems, most of the flaws in the coach are purely cosmetic. Until today. We were showing friends the coach, I'd pulled it out into the sunshine and opened the slideouts. In one basement, there was a puddle of water. Strange, since I'd been in the basement several times in the last week and it had been dry. Here is the painful part: the puddle and dripping wires right above it were directly under the toilet! I mopped up the water (about 1/4 cup) with a paper towel, and recalled which plumbing items I'd just used. There'd been just one: the kitchen sink. I blotted up the leakage and gave it a sniff: fresh water. Then, I stretched out dry towels and ran some water through the sink. Sure enough, the towels were again wet. Tracing back along the supply and drain lines with a flashlight, I saw all was dry and snug. The dry lines check progressed along the kitchen cabinet, all the way to the sliding wall section at the end of the slide. Unfastening the moving panel with the help of a friend, we looked into the cluttered area where bundles of electrical lines, the sink drain, and hot & cold water lines all form a graceful loop that plays out when the slide is extended. My buddy dabbed his fingers in dark wet dirt in the bottom of the bay and held them aloft: "there's your problem, it's wet." Indeed, the drain line was wet, probably leaking from where black PVC was joined with white reinforced rubber tubing. We congratulated ourselves and rejoined others in our party. Later, after he and his wife had left, I shined a light on the area. The "dirt" was hundreds of black pellets, each 3/8" long and the diameter of a Cheerio. Oh, oh... I immediately called him, told him to wash his hands and not chew his nails. What took up lodging in that crowded space between kitchen and bath must've been a huge rodent. No signs of hair, nesting debris or extensive damage, just guano. Now, the million dollar question is, did this visitor gnaw into the drain line in search of water? Replacing the tube will be a bugger-bear, further exploration will determine what work is needed. I've been all over this coach with a fine-toothed comb, not a speck of insect or rodent droppings anywhere else. This one caught me by surprise. Take a look at your enclosed spaces, see if you have visitors. Places where they might gain access to water might merit extra attention. Update: I'll post a photo of what I discovered in our album HERE. In short, the "rodent" I suspected was working on the Beaver assembly line. Before bundling the fresh water, drain, and multiple electrical conduits that comprise the "loop" adjacent to our kitchen slide, he/she oriented every hose clamp so that the sharp edges pushed against the underside of our kitchen sink drain hose. A worm-drive clamp tail was the first to completely penetrate the doomed hose, this time-bomb took 12,000 miles of vibration to activate. It is not hard (about thirty minutes' work) to expose the loop and cut away all the zip ties holding it together. If your rig is similarly booby-trapped, the time it takes to discover this time-release failure might be worthwhile. Now, I am removing the damaged section of hose, splicing in a replacement. You betcher bippy my plumbing will be wrapped in some type of anti-chafe cushion material.