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Found 3 results

  1. I have no power to anything that the house batteries power, and the generator will not start, even using the "battery boost" switch. My batteries are fully charged, I get 12.6v from them and through the master switch as far as the cable that disappears into the nether regions of the bus (2002 Monaco Diplomat 40ft). I have looked at every fuse that seems applicable and flipped every breaker that seems applicable, including the one on the generator, inverter, and the 50 amp in the bedroom as well as the GFI reset in the master bath. In the electrical panel below the driver's side window is a terminal with a large cable labeled "House" and when I hook up my meter to this, I get no reading. I am assuming this cable is the same one that exits the battery box in the rear (?) in which case it should have 12.6v but it does not. So either that supposition is wrong, or I am not getting a good ground with the clamp on my meter (hooked to the suspension, exhaust, and any other metal I could find...) or there is a breaker or fuse that I have missed, or that cable has broken. Any ideas on what fuse, breaker, or switch I have missed, or what else might be wrong? Thanks in advance! Tim
  2. I was pulling out my hair, suffering sporatic blown flasher fuses, on a recent trip. Then, the flasher unit itself failed. It was a maiden voyage with our new-to-us Patriot Thunder, our guests rolled their eyes every time I slid open the window to signal with my arm, got honked at, pulled into a truck stop to change yet another set of fuses. Finally, I unplugged the dolly lights and didn't blow another fuse. Today, after three hours of diagnostics and disassembling the dolly electrical system, I finally spotted the culprit: two tiny bites on a pair of wires going through a brand-new finder to the light assembly bolted to the outside. Yes, after catastrophic blowouts on BOTH sides of the dolly due to inferior OEM tires, I had to install new fenders. They arrive prewired, are simply mounted and plugged in. Turns out, at the factory the person who installed the lights put so much pressure on the wiring where it passes through the 1/4" hole that the insulation was severed inside of 2,000 miles of use. Of course, none of the pass-throughs are engineered with a 20 cent rubber grommet to protect the wiring; so, this kind of failure was bound to be repeated, had I not wrapped the wires in thick rubber tape. It seems dollies are designed to sell, rather than to last.
  3. From the album: Beaver Maintenance

    The blower resistor is comprised of several coils and a thermal fuse. Nothing is soldered: the items are clamped in place. Rather than ruining a replacement fuse, gently pry the clamped mount with a dental pick, and then ream the opening with a small bit. The fuse can be replaced for less than $5 and instantly restores a dash fan previously deemed inoperative on all but the highest setting to factory-new operation.
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