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Hurricane Heating System Shutting Down

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Here is a dilemma, my hurricane heating boiler runs a while and then hits the high limit and shuts down. The coach is stationary and sitting dead level. All relate to boiler hitting high limit and shutting down.

If the coach is sitting face heading down hill, not just out of level but greater like parked on an incline Hurricane will run until shut off.

If we are driving down the highway at 65 miles an hour it will run all day.

I have checked the supplied voltage at the time of shut down while stationary. It was 12.3.  It has shut down at 12.8 with genset running.

It should be noted that the alternator supplies power only to the chassis batteries and is not hooked to the isolator.

House batteries are charged via solar or the genset and have been between 12.3 and 12.8 at a shutdown.

Coolant is full and roiling/moving hard in the reservoir.

I have burped the system and after that it ran until i shut it down. The next time I started it it ran for a bit over an hour and shut down. I have attempted to burp it more than once.

System heat is good and all fans and registers dispensing heat.

Second problem or question. Should boiler run continuously when thermostats do not call for heat, it does run continuously..

When unit shuts down at high limit, the register fans go off as well and then after a few minutes come back on.

Thermostats do not shut off the boiler or put another way does not put it to sleep.

I realize that there is a shut off/on switch for the entire system and that there are zone on and off switches which work appropriately.


How are valves placed to have engine coolant heat the house heating system which is not the same as the dash heat? Does the Hurricane pump have to be running? 


I had a new control board installed at ITR International Thermal Research in Vancouver Washington not knowing this issue existed. The original board and flame sensor worked just fine and with no known issues and they ran the unit there just not long enough on an 80 degree day to expose this problem. The original flame sensor is no longer supported and I had both board and sensor changed to current to  avoid the potential of being out in the boonies and being serviceable.  If any one needs these good components to maintain an older system They are available . The new replacement board was $600 and the sensor $80 and a half hour labor.



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I spoke with ITR International Thermal Research they said, "odd one"  There are only three symptoms that cause this, aqua-stat, water pump not running and low water/coolant/air bubble. Since the latter 2 are correct must be the first so parts on the way.  Use of the system is 800 hours so that is not much but they also said time could be an element and I would concur.  Yes thanks Joe.

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