wolfe10 Report post Posted June 16, 2009 When an RV (absorption-type) refrigerator will not function on propane:1. Verify that you do have 12+ VDC to the back of the refrigerator-- the PC board requires 12 VDC to operate on propane as well as on 120 VAC.2. Turn on propane stove and verify normal, steady flame.3. Do annual burner-area tune-up as described in your refrigerator's owners manual. It takes no parts and no special tools. Issues addressed are: cleaning propane jet, cleaning burner tube, cleaning and setting igniter gap, etc.4. If still does not work, remove, clean (preferably with DeOxit--DeOxit) all electrical connections on the PC board and ground lug.Only after doing this should you suspect expensive parts such as PC board, gas valve, igniter, cooling unit, etc.Brett Wolfe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tbutler Report post Posted July 2, 2009 One more thing to check. I had a friend relate this to me lately. His refrigerator had never worked well on gas and he tried a number of things. It wasn't until he had his LP regulator checked and found the pressure on the line to be low that he was able to solve his problem. If you have always had low gas pressure, the flame might look normal to you. Only if you have seen the gas flame when the refrigerator is working well would you be able to make a comparison. Also while talking about refrigerators, it might be good to check the Norcold web site: http://www.thetford.com/HOME/CUSTOMERSUPPO...64/Default.aspx if you have a Norcold refrigerator. They have been adding models with certain serial numbers to their recall list. Models on the recall list have a history of catching fire. Read the list and information carefully as some serial numbers given are on the cooling unit on the rear of the refrigerator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jjgnn@yahoo.com Report post Posted July 2, 2009 One more thing to check. I had a friend relate this to me lately. His refrigerator had never worked well on gas and he tried a number of things. It wasn't until he had his LP regulator checked and found the pressure on the line to be low that he was able to solve his problem. If you have always had low gas pressure, the flame might look normal to you. Only if you have seen the gas flame when the refrigerator is working well would you be able to make a comparison. Also while talking about refrigerators, it might be good to check the Norcold web site: http://www.thetford.com/HOME/CUSTOMERSUPPO...64/Default.aspx if you have a Norcold refrigerator. They have been adding models with certain serial numbers to their recall list. Models on the recall list have a history of catching fire. Read the list and information carefully as some serial numbers given are on the cooling unit on the rear of the refrigerator. My refrigerator did not work on propane, and a circuit board was replaced, about $75. Looking at the old board it was obvious that the fuse holder had heated, causing a bad solder joint on the board. I have not checked it, but if anyone around me needs a new board, first we will resolder that joint, and try the board. A fuse is another thing to check befoe calling a repair person. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted July 2, 2009 My refrigerator did not work on propane, and a circuit board was replaced, about $75. Looking at the old board it was obvious that the fuse holder had heated, causing a bad solder joint on the board. I have not checked it, but if anyone around me needs a new board, first we will resolder that joint, and try the board. A fuse is another thing to check before calling a repair person. Agree completely with Jack. There have been a fair number of failed PC boards-- some for minor "repairable" issues, and some for more complex issues that will require board replacement. BUT, according to a long-time Dometic factory technical rep, there have also been a large number of good boards replaced due to short-cuts in the diagnostic procedure. I.E. when sent back to the factory under warranty, they test good. So, as suggested, do the preliminary (read FREE) stuff first, THEN consider more expensive failed components. Brett Wolfe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbstites Report post Posted August 6, 2009 Brett, I probably should have started a 'new topic' for this. 2004 Safari Cheetah with Norcold 4-door frig. Cooling unit replaced in July of this year before a long trip to west coast. RV Masters in Houston, TX, replaced the unit under extended warranty and the warranty (Prizm) would only authorize a refurbished unit, which I have heard have a pretty good track record. The installation, including new Propane activator PC board checked out ok in an overnight test. Picked up the coach and headed west. After several days, unit cooling well, including freezer/ice maker operation. However, the fins at the back/top of the refrigerator are frosting up at the end where the temp sensing thermocouple is attached. About 6-8 fins are involved and will not defrost. My question is: Does this indicate that the new Cooling Unit may be defective, could it be the thermocouple was left disconnected during the Cooling Unit changeout, etc.? We have rearranged the frig contents away from that end of the coils thinking maybe air circulation in the 'box' has been compromised due to 'blocking'. Any suggestions? John at jwsties@aol.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted August 6, 2009 John, I did move your post to a new topic: Refrigerator Fins Freezing Up, as you are more likely to get responses to your issue that way. Brett Wolfe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbedard1 Report post Posted April 8, 2015 My Norcold RV fridge does not work on l.p. anymore. It was working OK on gas and not on electric. I replaced the power supply. Now electric is working but gas not. The gas lights steady but the spark keeps going like the igniter does not know the flame is OK! How do I fix this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 8, 2015 dbedard1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you verified 12+ VDC at the refrigerator PC board? Have you done the "burner area tune-up"? Only after that should you look to spend $$. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gbrinck Report post Posted April 13, 2015 If I understand correctly, the LP flame lights and presumably the fridge cools. Your problem is that the igniter keeps on sparking? That sounds like a problem with the controller board itself. If the controller did not know the flame was lit, it would soon (about 15 seconds) shut the gas valve off to prevent a gas leak explosion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites