nemo45 Report post Posted June 19, 2012 My 2006 Tour Master has switches to shut off the chassis batteries and house batteries. I am wondering if its better to turn the chassis batteries off while we are camped for a long period of time? Or are those switches just for storage? I just bought new chassis batteries and want them to last as long as possible. I know I'll have to reset the clock etc. when I switch them back on, but that's not a big deal if it extends battery life. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 19, 2012 First, a question: Do you have 120 VAC where you are camped AND do you have a charger that charges the chassis batteries as well as the house batteries. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nemo45 Report post Posted June 20, 2012 First, a question: Do you have 120 VAC where you are camped AND do you have a charger that charges the chassis batteries as well as the house batteries. We are full timers and are always hooked up to shorepower. I was told by the tech where I bought the motorhome that my chassis batteries do not get charged by my converter when plugged into shorepower. I believe this to be true because I had bad chassis batteries and the diesel wouldn't start when I was plugged into shorepower. I have replaced the chassis batteries and they are not losing their charge, with the old batteries in two days they were down enough that they wouldn't turn over the diesel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 20, 2012 Since you are on shore power, it is better to add a small charger for the chassis batteries or unit that charges the chassis batteries from the house batteries than to disconnect them. Disconnecting chassis batteries means loosing memory in lots of devices. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rstjos Report post Posted June 30, 2012 Brett, You seem to have solved a few issues here. I have a 99 Rexhall Aerbus with the coach chassis battery disconnect switches that for some reason act up sporadically. In the two years I have the coach it happens at the worst times according to the book on the battery switches I can bypass the relay by moving the hot leads to the battery side of the relay. But the panel is a little different the the diagram shown in the book. Have you heard of changing the relay/fuse panel and moving the red leads on the coach relay only to the opposite side of the relay to bypass? Thanks, Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 30, 2012 Rob, What is failing on the chassis battery disconnect? Is it a mechanical switch or a solenoid with remote switch? If solenoid, look up its specs, in particular, its amp rating. Compare the amp rating with the amps taken to start your engine. Solenoids are pretty easy to troubleshoot. When chassis battery circuit fails to "make", go to the solenoid. Verify that you have 12+ VDC to one large lug (the one connected directly to the battery. Verify that the other large lug does NOT have 12+ VDC (i.e. solenoid not working). Now, check voltage at the small signal wire (if one, it will the the correct one-- if two, the second will be to ground and you want to identify the positive one). If 12+ VDC to the positive signal wire, but one large lug is not 12+ VDC, the solenoid is bad. But, if the small positive signal wire does not have 12+ VDC, you may have a problem with the remote switch or wiring. You can take a small jumper wire (it will only be carrying 1-2 amps) and go from the hot large lug to the positive signal terminal (with wire on the signal terminal removed so you don't back feed the dash. This is how the vast majority are wired. Of course, the ground connection could be used as the signal with the small positive terminal hot all the time-- check your wiring diagram or with a voltmeter. Can't comment on rewiring, as I don't know your particular panel and how it is wired. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
