jc21014 Report post Posted August 19, 2013 We're thinking of installing the above mentioned mod to our fridge, which involves cutting off the thermistor that attaches to the inside fins of the fridge and replacing it which the aforementioned mod. Has anyone done this and if so, are any temp adjustments still done by using the original control panel on the front of the fridge or by turning the small knob on the front of the snip mod? http://www.snip-the-tip.com/cgi-bin/articca.cgi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted August 19, 2013 JC, I looked over the information on the link real quick and it looks like the control that is added along with the thermocouple allows the original board to funtion normally. I will look and read it in more detail, but it appears that the internal control is used to calibrate the sensor. This would need to be done to achieve the same refrigerator temperatures that you presently get at a setting or settings. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted August 19, 2013 OK, I sent this thread to a long-time refrigeration industry manager. Here is the reply I got: I am not a big fan of aftermarket add-ons. Not that they do or don't work, but if you take the fridge into an authorized service center, the first thing they would do is remove that item, since they would not know how to check it for function, then they would install a Dometic thermister and proceed. Testing an existing thermister can easily be done by immersing it in a glass of ice water to simulate 32 degrees and Ohms test the plug end at the control board for approx 8500 Ohms ( 5800 on the 1402 only). If over 10% off replace with Dometic Thermister Replacement Kit #330 7872.006 replaces the tip only with silicon sealing connectors - about $22. directly from Dometic. Thermister should be attached to the aluminum evaporator fin. Regards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted August 20, 2013 JC, I think that Brett with the help of his contact covered the subject very well. Fundamentally everything remains the same and using the kit mentioned just replaces the OEM thermocouple. With the need to have a control to set the range of the replacement thermocouple so the original set of controls stay in the proper temperature range for the different models. It is tempting to just cut out the old part, it is quick. One does not have to fish the new part supplied from the manufacture up, through, around, and under anything. Should the part not be the problem you are back to square one. Should you not be able to perform the tests required, often it is best to have the service center check things. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jc21014 Report post Posted August 20, 2013 With all the bad press that rv fridges have recently received concerning their cooling abilities, I'm probably expecting to much. We had the "Amish" unit installed in our Dometic NDR1062 several months ago and it cooled rather well at first, with temps in the 33-36 degree range in the box, -5 to -10 in the freezer, when setting the outside panel on 3-4 out of 5. (2) four inch computer case fans were installed at the top of the roof vent and controlled by a rocker switch. Lately, the temps in the box only, using the same setting(s) have inched up into the upper end 38-42 range in the box. Food is not being packed inside to restrict airflow, the door is left open only long enough to retrieve certain items and all door seals are snug. A new thermistor, burner and 325w heating element were installed at change over and the orifice was removed and cleaned. The lp burner has a good blue color when on and a slight noticeable burning sound. 24hrs prior to leaving, I go to the storage unit and turn the fridge on lp and 12-18 hrs later, the freezer is at -5 and the box is 38-40 so it appears to be cooling down correctly. It sounds like some investigative work is in order to make sure everyting was done correctly from the start, ie; installation and sealing. Maybe I'm expecting colder temps then are reasonable and thought the "Snip-the-tip" would help. Has anyone heard that the OEM boards used by Dometic are basically "set" for 40 degrees and the dinosaur boards have an adjustment so the temps can be lowered? Thanks everyone for your comments so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted August 20, 2013 JC, from the information I have been reading, a refrigerator at 40 to 38 deg. is very good and a freezer at 0 deg. is the ideal temp. So the temperature information you posted is not bad at all. The internal air temperature will very widely when the door is opened, but the overall temp of the items inside remain at a given temperature longer, just because of there density. Did you get your readings from a remote temperature sensor? Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jc21014 Report post Posted August 20, 2013 JC, from the information I have been reading, a refrigerator at 40 to 38 deg. is very good and a freezer at 0 deg. is the ideal temp. So the temperature information you posted is not bad at all. The internal air temperature will very widely when the door is opened, but the overall temp of the items inside remain at a given temperature longer, just because of there density. Did you get your readings from a remote temperature sensor? Rich. The temps are from a digital stat and (2) remote sensors, one in the freezer and one in the fridge box. I additionally have a regular hanging fridge thermometer in the freezer and fridge box also. Each of these seem to usually read 3-4 degrees colder than the digital ones. Hmmm, maybe I'm actually colder than I think in the freezer and fridge and am being overly concerned or anal or whatever. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
