hunterg10166 Report post Posted April 6, 2014 Hello, I have a Series 6082 Norcold fridge that stopped working. I have only tried it in A/C mode, as my bottles are empty right now, but even when its plugged in, the A/C light on the top wont light up. It is in a 1992 Sandpiper trailer. I checked the outside panel, and everything looks intact there.I checked the main circuit board, and all those fuses are good. Is there another fuse hidden somewhere? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! Scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 6, 2014 Scott, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Irrespective of heat source (120 VAC or propane) the PC board works on 12 VDC. So, start by confirming that you have 12 VDC at the refrigerator (outside access door). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hunterg10166 Report post Posted April 6, 2014 I checked the outlet on the outside, and it appears to be getting/giving power. I tested it by plugging something else in to the outlet, and got power to that device. Is there another way I should test it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted April 7, 2014 As Brett mentioned, the fridge controls are 12 volt, ie., this battery power. The ac outlet is 120 volt, you will need a volt ohm meter, or some device capable of measuring 12 volts.The AC light will not light if 12 volts is not present, and the fridge will not work on either 120 volt, or gas if the 12 volts are not present. Even if the gas is not present, if the control board is functioning, you can move the switch to gas, and the light will show the changeover, and nf will appear. Look for the 12 volt supply, if there is 12 volts the control board will light, or that is a sign the cb is defective. Not very likely, but a possibility. If 12 volts not present, look for a fuse in the 12 volt fuse panel to be blown. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hunterg10166 Report post Posted April 8, 2014 I do see the 12 volt supply wires, so I will test the connection, as well as the voltage on those. Thank you very much for the info!!! Before I get to the test, what could cause the voltage loss? The wires appear intact. Could it be dirty connections? Thanks again Scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites