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About kaypsmith

  • Birthday 11/10/1944

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Hueytown, Al
  • Interests
    Ham Radio
  • I travel
    With pets

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  1. Possibly some water was pooled either on the slide or the slide awning. The weight from filling the water tank may have caused the RV to lean just enough to cause the pooled water to move. As I said just a possibility.
  2. When was the last time you purged the front air tank?
  3. Sorry, I thought that I had sent you a PM, just checked and re sent to you.
  4. Agreed, the picture is not an inverter/charger, it's a diode based battery isolator, has nothing to do with inverting/charging. It's sole purpose is to make sure that the user does not deplete the chassis battery while current is being pulled from the house batteries, works equally well to keep the house batteries are not depleted by chassis operation. The house batteries do have a thermal type circuit breaker which has gone bad.
  5. Any wiring schematics whether posted in the coach or in the book that came with the coach. Pictures of all the wiring connections with a small description of their location, just in case you get a bad repairman that moves wires because of stupidity or loss of reasoning. Spare tire is a good idea, it can be placed in a storage bay and other articles can be placed inside to minimize storage loss. The copies of paperwork can be stored on a website or on webdrive to minimize folder size.
  6. Ray, that's not his inverter, it's the battery isolator, diode based, one wire to alternator, and one to each battery bank for charging while alternator is charging. Only one battery is new, system has been load tested. The negative wire is attached to a disconnect switch on the left end of the bank positive directly with a small wire going to something else. Wires are correct.
  7. Doug, that large wire to the right should be going to the chassis battery harness. The Solenoid is most likely the battery combiner, with all wiring attached correctly, when someone pushes the combiner switch, you should hear that solenoid latch, and both chassis and house batteries should all be combined.
  8. Here is how to test a diode based isolator. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+test+a+diode+based+isolator&oq=how+to+test+a+diode+based+isolator&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160.19018j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_YqIAYfDLCeevqtsP2oyn0AI56
  9. The inverter will work on which ever type battery you have or choose, assuming that is a 12 volt system. The inverter will either be a MSW (modified syne wave) or (pure syne wave). PSW for what is worth is a better choice than MSW because PSW will run most any appliance, while MSW is more pickey. Lithium batteries are great but are still very expensive.
  10. You will need to start at the house batteries. Make sure that these batteries are wired correctly, with 3 12 volt batteries, you must have a jumper between each battery on both positive and negative post, every post requires one, positive to positive, negative. Make sure that the negative does indeed connect to a good chassis ground. Also that the positive does indeed connect to the house fuse circuit. Now if all this is correct then follow the positive lead away from the battery bank. On most coaches, the first place to go is to a circuit breaker or inline fuse. You can use a needle or strait pin to push a hole through the insulation, making sure not to short this to a ground. With the pin before the fuse/circuitbreaker, use your multimeter attach and use the black lead attached a good ground, and the red lead with the meter set to DC voltage, do this first on the battery side of the fuse, then to the house side of the fuse. If 12 volt is present before fuse, then the circuit away from battery is good, go to the house side, if 12 volt is not there, then the fuse is bad, if fuse is good then follow the large wire to the next item in line and test the same way until you find the failing component. It does sound that the isolator is ok, but you can test it by checking all three red cables leaving the isolator, all three should check to contain 12 volts with the coach running. The battery combiner appears to be the black solenoid to the left of the isolator and just below it, that should make a sound when someone pushes the combiner switch.
  11. That red heat sink looking device with the two red and one black wires attached is your isolator. That device is a diode based isolator, and if you reversed the leads on the house batteries, you probable have fried those diodes on the house side. Try to get the name and model number off of that device and someone can probably help find a replacement. Do you know where the 12 volt fuses are located in the coach? Most of your coaches vintage have a set of fuses that look like the newer version of automotive fuses, and often have two larger amperage fuses side by side that are designed to blow in the event of reversed polarity. Most older coaches have a circuit breaker/ fuse panel that is built together, if that style there will be a lift off panel that covers the 12 volt fuses. Be sure to check for this.
  12. Kinda still on track, still about clogged arteries, and with Carl, no telling what color.🤩Sure glad Huffy got his problem resolved without a major event.
  13. Is it an Inseego M2000? If so then Ross is correct, there is a two plugs on the bottom. I don't have a ladder on the back of my coach either, I use a receiver (hitch) flag pole mount with a 30 foot extendable flag pole for the mast for the antenna, portable and works great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174583503503?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item28a5fcda8f:g:IokAAOSwRYZf882k&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSDAeS9EQtjPGVfKXTxF0%2BjoCFDZWyFhbuMcgRDwPTGKQZz0mZ
  14. Yes more info about the awning make and model will be helpful. In 35 years of RV'ing, I have yet to see a need for taking the legs loose from the awning. I have seen several that you could take the legs loose from the RV.
  15. I found this product about a year ago. https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Microfiber/dp/B00UAH19FS/ref=asc_df_B00UAH19FS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198100801330&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9945830145870962599&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012456&hvtargid=pla-349125716802&psc=1 I have used it several times to make similar repairs as yours. So far it has worked very well and held up great. It is the same product that dentist uses to mend broken teeth, LOL, use and use the ultra violet light that comes with it. Just a matter of minutes and most items are good as new. It is in most cases stronger than the original part.
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