urbanhermit
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Posts posted by urbanhermit
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When did BH take over Georgetown, please?
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For general inforamtion re loose wood screws: the toothpick trick. Insert a round toothpick into the hole, break it off flush, and reinstall the screw. Except with very large screws, one toothpick will do the trick. Have no idea if this will apply to the sagging cabinet, with which significant weight and straight-out pull is involved, but works great for cabinet doors, etc.
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More than I knew -- thanks. We like our Cayman 36, but it's a 2006 and I'm told (and experiencing) that from 2002 to 2006 support for them disappeared when massive amounts of documentation got lost in a transfer of ownership. Our source told us 2008 to 2010 is the sweet spot, before DEF came along. We're having resource problems that I expecct will get worse as time goes by. At present we have a new coolant temperature gauge and a new sender (from two different events) and the gauge still doesn't work. Our highly capable heavy truck and diesel RV shop can't get wiring information out of REV. I'm probably going to have to mount a Joe Mudflaps underdash temp gauge and find someone to run a whole new wire from sender to gauge.
So we're considering alternatives to keeping the Cayman -- alternatives that we entry level folk can afford. The one that caught our eye is a 37 if memory serves.
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Beginning to consider a 2009 Expedition. Know nothing of Fleetwood quality. Experienced Itasca -- excellent-- and Monaco -- okay, but an orphan -- and have read owner reviews of various Flleetwood models including Expedition ranging from worst RV on the planet to best RV on the planet. What say ye?
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On 2/20/2021 at 9:39 AM, manholt said:That's why I have AGM's! At 78, I'm basically lazy....I was that for 15 years prior, but now I have an excuse! 😂
My man ! (77 in June)
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On 2/27/2021 at 8:59 PM, rayin said:By far the most reliable and complete leak detection process is The SealTech leak detection system.
Watched the video. Impressive . . . and left me with an uneasy feeling . . .
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Thanks to all who responded with suggestions. It turned out to be a loose nut on a wire terminal on a solenoid. Whew!
Enabled me to sell the coach two days later, 12 hours after I posted it on craigslist. Bittersweet -- I liked the interior layout and atmosphere better than the bigger, newer, Monaco Cayman we still have and will keep.
BTW, the problem was with a Itasca Sunflyer 34 with the Ford F53 chassis.
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On 2/8/2021 at 10:00 AM, moonwink said:"Mac the Fire Guy" used to put on some VERY GOOD seminars at the FMCA International Rallies. Take a few minutes to watch this YouTube video he made about RV safety. At the 11 minute mark, you shows the ladder he had made for exactly the problem the OP describes. One thing he always recommends about exiting out that window is to grab the blankets off the bed and put them over the bottom window sill to make it easier on you as you exit.
Updated RV Safety | Mac The Fire Guy
Here's another VERY GOOD video by Mac The Fire Guy:
"One thing he always recommends about exiting out that window is to grab the blankets off the bed and put them over the bottom window sill to make it easier on you as you exit." -- excellent common-sense action that probably hasn't occurred to most of us.
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Water damage or manufacturing fault with the glue application. Another thought: Since the coach is so sparkly clean, could it have suffered from long-tern interior humidity, molded up, caused the headliner to sag, and then been aggressively and professionally cleaned, polished, and sanitized?
There are moisture meters that use a couple of prongs poked into a surface to measure conductivity between them and leak detectors that detect thermal variations. If leakage is a concern, there are leak detection contractors who can determine wet/dry in a few minutes.
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1999 Itasca Sunflyer 34: between visits to the coach slides and jacks became inoperative, as though they aren't there. Ground switch on the parking brake pedal works No continuity from the end of it's ground wire to known ground. A 20-amp push breaker labeled for slides and fog lights was tripped. When reset the fog lights worked but the slides did not. Later found the jacks inoperative. On the jack control panel the On and Brake Off warning lights come on when the On button is pressed but go out immediately when pressure is released. Besides a fault on that panel would not affect the slides. Batteries are fully charged, ignition switch in correct position. Question: is there a single relay for both slides and jacks? Could be -- they aren't used simultaneously. I realize how narrowly focused this issue is -- but has anyone had a parallel problem and found the solution? .
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On 2/16/2021 at 7:11 PM, kaypsmith said:Here is the latest list of triple tow states that I can find. https://www.gillettesinterstaterv.com/can-you-triple-tow-an-rv-legality-and-safety/
A nice rear receiver carrier on the back of the Jeep will do a nice job of carrying the grill, and would be legal in all states with the exception of maybe over length in some.
27 states -- about half.
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Reading this, I realize I need and EMS. Any opinions about best value for a portable without spending half an RV unit?
(I'm adapting "RV unit" from my extensive boatyarding experience. A boat unit is $1,000. Not so painful to think of repairs as "two boat units" instead of "another $2,000 overboard." I'm slowly bringing Mother Superior up to snuff, and she's been at Empire Truck Sales (and service) more than she's been in the storage lot.)
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I just found this. I also found an article about double towing in North Dakota which allows it but gives specific requirements about brakes and safety chains and distinguishes between fifth wheels and bumper-pulls As I live in FL and probably won't live long enough to get to North Dakota, I didn't copy the link.
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On 2/8/2021 at 5:37 AM, hermanmullins said:You can pull triple as long as you do not exceed the length limit. In Texas it is 65 feet total.
Herman
That surprises me. Not doubting your word, but I'm sure I read somewhere that the lead had to be fifth wheel. Maybe a state reg?
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On 2/13/2021 at 6:14 PM, richard5933 said:This is the kind I've seen used by a few people and they certainly look to be the easiest to put on and to put away. I especially like that there is no need to put your arm into the wheel well.
I like! May pirate the idea. Easy storage while traveling, too. I assume the twist clips are mounted with screws?
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I would do the same, and I'm sure all us men would, too. But darned if I didn't think, for a split second, as I was reading, that you were going to say "so my butt could land on something soft."
(Crap-- appear I stiff haven't got this posting stuff down pat)
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On 2/8/2021 at 6:43 AM, hermanmullins said:I have had to go out the window only one time. Thank goodness it wasn't an emergency. Our dead bolt had stuck. I was able to go out the bedroom window. As Richard said feet first. I got out until my belly came to the ledge then as I got it over the ledge I was on my but on the ground. I wasn't hurt (but I was 12 years younger). Incase I had to do it in an emergency I would have the wife go out first with my help then follow myself. Nothing is more important than my wife's safety.
Herman
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Very handsome ! The greenery looks like rainy country. Noticed your awning is level. You might want to set one end a couple inches lower to drain off water. Awnings can trap several hundred pounds of water. The manual for mine warns of 500 to 1000 lbs (!). Seems hysterical to me, but it makes the point.
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For a couple years I owned a 1968 Citroen ID19, their basic, garden-variety sedan. Support in the US was almost nonexistent even then, in the early 1970s. I shudder to think about trying to maintain one of those creatures outside of Europe.
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On 11/17/2020 at 6:42 PM, richard5933 said:1952 Ford Crestline is my guess for what they started with.
You're right on the year. Can't attest to the model, but it was for sure a sedan.
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On 3/11/2016 at 2:05 PM, MLnDavo said:Would a motorcycle lift work? Can I tow my Wrangler with that on a motorcycle lift?
I've got a Swivelwheel lift. I think balance would be a disabling factor on my rig, as the sides of the tire rail rise a couple inches above the for tie-down points and the grill would have to tip forward or back even if half of it would come down on the two tie-down arms while leaving the strap hook holes exposed. You might need to have a plate of some kind welded up that would slot into the tire rail and secure at the four tie-down points. Expensive, but in for a penny, in for a pound. (I don't think it's legal to pull a trailer behind a trailer unless the front trailer is a gooseneck/fifth wheel type, but don't assume I'm right. According to the Executive Department, I rarely am.)
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On 2/4/2021 at 7:23 PM, manholt said:Don't forget the 10% it's costing us for each transaction.
Huh? I better reread the fine print.
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My wife's WPA-built charter school has something like the recommended Kidde fire escape ladders in very classroom. The hook mechanism looks unwieldy for an RV and an 18" window but if there's not a different brand with more compact hooks, I think that's the way to go. Or keep a powerful chop saw in the bedroom.
Our escape window is on the driver's side. I've wondered how we get out if we roll over on that side and our door, which is heavy, becomes a vertical hatch eight feet off the ground and eight feet above what we're standing on. Maybe we climb up the front seats. Maybe if we do roll over that way we'll be lucky enough that the windshield will pop out.
At least with a diesel pusher we don't have to worry about a gasoline fire at a front engine. Anybody ever hear of a fire starting from the electrical half of a generator?
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Thanks to all responders.
Forest River Georgetown 36k7 owner reviews
in Type A motorhomes
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Thankee. I got hot and bothered with their Berkshire floorplan, didn't know anything at all about the quality/refinement level, then decided it would cost me too much to make the change. We're reasonably happy with Mother Superior, our 06 Cayman 36. Going to roll the dice on the total lack of technical support from REV.