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paulcarson

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Posts posted by paulcarson


  1. In 2005 we stayed 8 days in Custer, SD at Yogi Bears Jellystone Campground. It is not a resort, but is nice and plenty of space. We made day trips to Rushmore, Crazy Horse, Badlands, etc. Very enjoyable. Would like to go back one day.....

    Now, upon second thought maybe it was Flintstone's....one of those cartoon characters!! Anyway, it was still a nice park and we enjoyed the stay.....


  2. Any body know of any good campgrounds in the Rapid City area? We plan on doing Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse, Deadwood etc. We could stay in any of these area but would like to stay in one spot or 8-9 days. We have a 41 foot, 4 slide pusher with toad on back. We would prefer something with a little width.

    We will also be going from there to Glacier NP.

    In 2005 we stayed 8 days in Custer, SD at Yogi Bears Jellystone Campground. It is not a resort, but is nice and plenty of space. We made day trips to Rushmore, Crazy Horse, Badlands, etc. Very enjoyable. Would like to go back one day.....


  3. I purchased a RhinoFlex system when I purchased my (first) class A motorhome last March. So far, after one season I'm quite pleased with it. The latest issue of Family Motor Coaching had part 2 of an article on Waste Management, in which they mentioned the Polychute system. I checked it out online at polychute.com and while it does appear to have some excellent features, the $149 price tag was almost five times what you'd pay for the RhinoFlex system.

    My question to you all is what are your experiences with hose kits and what would you recommend?

    I use the RhinoFlex system on my 2008 Winnebago with excellent results


  4. Hi Paul - At the RV lanes you put your credit card in first then it will prompt you for your loyalty card. If you are paying with cash, you do have to prepay inside where they will swipe your card. If you were to use the truck lanes, you swipe your loyalty card only to start the pump and then pay inside when you're done.

    Lynsay, I would just like to say "THANK YOU" for standing in here, taking the hits, and answering all of our questions and addressing the problem. I really think you are trying to solve the problem. Again, THANK YOU....Paul


  5. Hi Paul - I do apologize for this, but the store was incorrect with the info they gave you. I will address with them immediately. There are no limits to discounts. You do not have to fuel 25 gallons to receive the discount. That is company-wide. So just continue as you did at the 2nd stop & you will receive your discount.

    Well, at the Flyin J I used the RV lane and there was no where on the pump to swipe the RV card, so I asked my wife to go in with the card and cash to get the pump started. Are all pumps equipped to have cards swiped or not?


  6. At Pilot, I-35 South Exit 184 I was told my old card was no good and was issued a new card, and also was told the discount did not apply unless a minimum of 25 gallons was purchased. I was topping off my tank before leaving on the next leg of trip and only needed 22 gallons to full it up, so no discount. Then today at Flying J, I-20 East bound exit 3, the card worked perfectly and discount was given for 23 gallons. I know the discount is not a lot of money, but if it works at one why not all of them? Beginning to think it is more of a bother than anything else...


  7. I really appreciate everyone's reply and info shared. But, I have now decided to keep the stock air intake configuration using the K&N filter. I decided the results would not be sufficient for the cost of the custom unit. I will just be happy with my 7.5 - 8.3 mpg and live life to the fullest. Thanks again everyone....Paul


  8. I am trying to improve the MPG on my Type C motorhome. I am considering installing one of K&N's performance air intakes on my motorhome. Was wondering if anyone has done this and what results were achieved with this. I rarely drive over 60 mph, keep the tires properly inflated, use synthetic oil, etc. I replaced the stock filter with a K&N filter when the motorhome was new. The engine is V-10 Ford.


  9. Paul,

    If you run the power to any battery then it will be on 24/7 and you may not want that. But you may have inadvertently come up with an idea. For those whose electric steps retract when the door is closed, it might be possible to wire it into that system so when the step comes in and you are ready to hit the road, the camera comes on.

    Skyking8,

    See what happens when one does not think it through completely....I did not think about the camera being on 24/7 wired to the battery. I am intrigued by the thought of the camera coming on when the steps retract. I am not sure how to wire it up to work that way. Any thoughts. By the way, THANK YOU for your service to our country!!!! 73's.....

    Paul

    KE5VLE


  10. I see back-up camera systems for RVs advertised for $300 to $1600.

    I have a Class-C and installed a Peak/Wireless back-up camera system with 2.4 in. LCD monitor for $80.

    It turns on whenever I shift to reverse and is wireless to the driver seat area. Not as big a screen as the thousand dollar units but it works for me.

    You can check the auto parts web sites to locate a store near you that has the unit.

    Now if you want the camera on full time you will need to run 12v power to the back of your RV but if you are only concerned when backing up this unit works just fine.

    Tireman9, If I understand you correctly to get the camera to work full time all I need to do is run wire to the 12V batteries under my step? I have a VR3 system that sounds very much like your Peak. I am thinking of mounting the camera on the ladder. Thanks for your reply....Paul


  11. Lee and Paul,

    First off, Lee welcome to the FMCA forums.

    After 4 decades working with wireless (yes their has been wireless long before WiFi), I can say most of the time you are much better off with a hardwired installation -- be it audio, video, data, whatever. That doesn't mean I am anti-wireless, but that statement is based on years of both hardwire and wireless projects. And certainly video wireless offers flexibility and easier installation than hardwire, but the engineering trade-offs of speed and noise immunity, among other parameters, are considerable in many cases. OK, engineering class is over.

    Very simply, you can run RG-6 cable on the roof inside split loom for protection. Most "professional" installers don't even use loom, but I am more conservative than most, because it does protect the wire/cable. You can also run RG-6 (and other cables) under the RV. I have both configurations on my coach. Where the underside cable(s) cannot be run next to the frame rails or inside a storage bay (using split loom in all occasions), I run the cable through the very durable but flexible plastic electrical conduit (at Home Depot and Lowes) for road debris protection, anchored every 2 to 3 feet. It also works well for hydraulic hose protection.

    Take your time and plan the cable runs. I generally take much longer planning a job than the actual installation.

    All that said, most folks will recommend wireless because it is easier to install. And most of the time the performance is acceptable for the application. That said, you need to be aware of a few pitfalls with wireless:

    Some wireless video systems use 400 MHz spectrum; some use 900 MHz spectrum; some use 2400 MHz spectrum. Any of the above can and will suffer interference from time to time. And not only from another user on frequency. These devices do not have the hardware selectivity necessary to be immune from broadband radio frequency and impulse noise. So, you will have an acceptable picture most of the time, but the video will degrade sometimes. And that will happen (when it does happen), more so in urban environments -- typically when you need the camera the most.

    For me, a fading or noisy video screen is a distraction from my driving.

    Make sure anything wireless is not tunable. It will drift with vibration and you don't want to have to mess with a potentiometer while driving. Or anytime for that matter. Usually the more costly units are locked oscillator designs and more stable.

    Literally, 6 inches of revised placement can make the difference between acceptable video and complete noise on screen. If you go wireless, mount the camera and/or transmitter where you want it, then connect the receiver unit to the video monitor or TV (depending on how you use it), and test it in various locations for a good signal before permanently mounting it.

    Generally speaking, since the camera/transmitter is mounted high on the back wall, the receiver will get the best RF signal when it is mounted high in the front overhead -- if possible. This keeps the receiver away from the heavy steel of the chassis (as in under the dash), that has much more RF attenuation (reducing) capability than light weight aluminum and fiberglass. I ran into that very issue when installing a wireless tire pressuring monitoring system in my coach. Running a multi-conductor cable from the overhead cabinets (receiver location) down the window post to under the dash (computer location) took some time, but I included other cables needed for other systems at the same time, so I had to remove the various covers and fish everything through only once.

    A friend of mine, with a burned out monitor, said "... I only need to see if the tow is back there from time to time." Actually, you also need to see if it has a flat tire (smoke and debris); if the tow is on fire; if someone hits it --whether they run or not; how well it tracks behind the coach -- particularly in tight turns; how close the 18 wheeler is behind you; whether you have an engine fire in your pusher; and on and on.

    I don't have any particular manufacturer recommendations. I purchase on type of use and equipment specifications, so I have components from different manufactures. For the non-technical, a package system is the best choice, but that will generally get the highest prices. The best recommendation is from the tried and true, so I will differ that issue to others who have purchased various systems.

    Chuck, I really appreciate the info. Not real sure which way I will go, but your info was very detailed. Thanks again.....Paul


  12. We just had a rally at Admiralty RV resort. The park is very old. They had plenty of spaces but they were very narrow.

    The ladies at check in were very nice.

    However the manager was a total jerks. If you don't come into there registration area correctly they jump you and tell you that you must move your coach or they will not register you. One of our members drove the wrong direction in the park and was jumped on by the manager and then banned from the park for life.

    The managers feelings if you don't like it lump it. Members of the Board of Directors for Lone Star Chapter decided that they are on our do not stay list. Our chapter paid the park Close to $4,000.00 for the spaces. Now they will never get another penny from Lone Star.

    When asked who the owner of the park I was told "I'm the manager". I then said "Who owned the park" and was told the "the owner doesn't want to talk to you". If I was him I would not want guest talking to the owner either.

    Enough said. Bad park.

    I am glad to hear this. Our son and his family are stationed at SA and we have a trip planned there soon. I was thinking about staying at the admirality but will not now. I read in CG directory about River Ranch RV in New Braunfels...sounds nice. Do you know anything about it? Paul


  13. I read in one of my monthly magazines that DirecTV has an as-you-go offer. Of course I am traveling and forgot the magazine. Anyone here read it? It was either Escapees or Family Motor Coaching in November.

    I went and got a satellite and receiver, but I would like the activation telephone number out of the article.

    Thank you, in advice.

    I am not familiar with DirectTV pay-as-you-go. I sure wish Direct would have a program like Dish Network. Maybe one day soon.

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