t5watson5

I pay a premium $97 a year for 0 deductible windshield coverage. in 17 years I have used it 8 times. 8 X $97=$776. $500 deductible X 8= $4000. 8 windshields may seem like a lot but I don't wait for a chip to spread to a crack. I get a stone chip I get a new windshield. I let them do the vacuum, epoxy fix once and I didn't like it so, no more of that.

If you are going in Feb. and March you should find places to stay. I travel from MI to AZ every tear and only make a reservation in 1 park that we like in Sierra Vista, AZ. I only call and make that res. a couple of weeks ahead of time. By the time I make that res.I am already in AZ or TX. As for the trip out there, no res. needed. the parks along the interstates have room. Never been turned away on route West in 14 years.

Only 200 mles from home for this unit? My advice is continue shopping. There are a lot of good, better than this one, units out there. I live in MI and bought used units in FL, AZ and OH. Traveling those distances has saved me thousands and I was able to get GREAT deals. That said, you will never find a unit that is perfect,all old units need something. Even the one in my yard right now. The one I have now needed about $6,000.00 in drivetrain work but I bought it $15,000.00 under book value.

Open wheel race car drivers(Indy cars and Formula 1) have raised areas on their helmets. This is for stability of the head. The wind is disturbed as it passes over the raised areas and stops wind buffeting. Same principle as Air Tabs. They dont have them for fuel mileage gain or to keep themselves clean. My opinion....only buy them for the possible stability gain.

We do visit TX often. If not every winter at least every other winter. Our favorite areas are the Gulf coast and Big Bend. You mis-read our profile. We are in Michigan. Easy mistake....MI or WI. They do touch each other so you were close

I checked the jrazz posting...thanks. I have had body shop quotes but want to try it myself. I do a lot of my repairs but not this much paint. I am a FMCA member 220386. Been RV'n a few years but just joined the forum tonight. Have usually been able to get answers from RV'n friends but the clearcoat is a new one for me.

On my 1996 Holiday Rambler, Navigator I have clearcoat delaminating (full body paint)on the front cap (above windshield), rear cap (upper portion & onto top area of cap) & on curb side above the top rail molding but not onto the roof. Is their an easy way to feather the edge of the clearcoat and just re-spray the exposed areas or do I have to remove all clearcoat even if it is a good bond with the paint? What product should I use to remove the loose clearcoat? Scuff pad or sand paper? What grit? Power sand or hand finish?