RoryTug

FMCA on this site has a list of towables for each year. I would give you a link but my device won't do that.

I did my dog house with Kool mat. It is silicone based an what any race cars use to insulate from heat. Pricy, but fire proof, easy and does reduce heat and noise.

I soaked the whole front of the coach from the roof starting at the sat dish and working down all the running lights and window seams with a running garden hose for over 30 minutes.. I am befuddled.

I have a 2011 Itasca Sunova 33c. Living in Las Vegas, NV, my coach has not seen much rain in the year we have owned it. Over the past couple days, it rained hard and steady for prolonged periods and yesterday, it rained for 6 hours straight. I had the coach A/C's on and was working inside and noticed water on the dash. I traced the leak to the side cabin windows (both driver and passenger). The water was leaking from the same place on both which I will try to describe. The window is split. A small fixed 6" tall single glass over a sliding window on the bottom in what appears to be a single frame. The water was coming in from the uppermost front corner of the window frame. It appeared to be coming from behind trim flashing on the inside. Today the sun is shining so with my ladder, garden hose and wife in tow, I set out to find the leak. I soaked the window frame...nothing. I soaked the running lights, roof antennas A/C mounts EVERYTHING I could run a hose on and not a drop. Anyone have any ideas?

How long have you had your Banks, what was your mileage before and did you notice any difference in performance? I am considering it when my warranty expires.

2011 Itasca Sunova 33C. 12,000 miles towing a 2001 Acura MDX. We drive 60 and average about 7. On the flat lands of Illinois, Iowa, Michigan, etc, we got about 8 towing with my all time high of 8.8 on flat land with a 25mph tail wind.. Wind seems to be a bigger problem than towing. Recently did 4000 miles without the tow. Had no wind or weather going and got 8. Coming back on the same route, got 5.5 and had stiff headwinds all the way. Sorry to hear the meager improvement of the Banks Power pack as I was looking forward to warranty expiration to add it to mine.

I agree that the Green connectors are inadequate. The plastic themselves have not yet failed but I have found that the gauge of wire supplied is too large for the input on the connector. This causes strands of the wire to "escape" and I have had trouble with them wondering and shorting. I have trimmed and reset them and then siliconed them in place. It seams to me that the connectors should be a trailer plug quality with pig tails or something as road grime and water are an issue. When I called LSL with another issue, I found them to be very responsive and helpful. As an aside, I mentioned the poor quality of the connectors and the rep I spoke to seemed quite surprised. I don't know if this will help but my connection from the coach to the toad is wired in such a manner that there is no tension on the connectors. I ran the wire inside the blue trailer connector wire loom with sufficient excess inside to accommodate my toad at its most extreme extension and then zip tied the cable to the blue wire at each end. I then added some slack with 6"-8" leads on the toad and coach. When I am not hooked up, this lead tucks away in the grill or under the coach bumper. I looked on the website after reading your post and do not see the new features you are describing. They would be welcome, to be sure. Over all I found the system to be a welcome addition to keep my battery up in my toad on long hauls.

I purchased a 7710 and loved the interface and big screen. It seemed very intuitive. After setting it up in my office, my wife (copilot) and I took it out to the coach. We were horribly disappointing with the screen quality. The screen is OLD tech. It is barely visible even though shaded in the coach. It was ONLY visible from directly in front. ANY deviation side to side washed out the screen. This made it unusable for us as my copilot does all the data entry, monitoring, etc, yet I still need to see it for use. It went back in the box and back to CW and we purchased the Dezel 565. The smaller screen is very visible. I have had Garmin in the past and find it easy to use. I cannot comment as to the accuracy of the 7710 as we never used it on the road. The Dezel is set up more for trucks and the 7710 was VERY RV friendly in its menus and database but the cheesy screen and case quality scared us off.

Originally purchaced the Rand-McNally. I love the RV features and it was very intuitive to use but i never took it on a trip as the screen clarity, although large, was poor. The display is like the old laptops in that it was not very bright and one had to be looking directly straight on to view it. This took my copilot out of the loop. Returned and went to the Garmin 560LMT as have had Garmin products in the past. The display is 100 times better, although smaller. It can be viewed at 150 degrees +. Operation is pretty simple. It has some nice features but it is not as RV friendly as the RM but it does help with truck routes, low clearance and other warnings. It has an RV mode but I find the best info is in the truck mode. Lane Assist and Junction View is very good and invaluable when driving on unfamiliar highways. Having a GPS to remind you to make turns and to "look ahead" for services is a wonderful too. We have only used it around town to familiarize ourselves with it but have a 5,000 mile trip coming up to put it to the test. The 465T is a smaller version and lacks some of the features of the larger screen 560. Go to Garmin website to compare and see what works best. Walmart.com has both, $250 or $340 respectively and I highly recommend lifetime maps. No GPS is perfect. Common sense and operator input cannot be replaced.

I tow a 2001 Acura MDX. The vehicle had 92,000 miles and 9,000 miles being towed. It still had OEM front brakes that were above 70%. Before I began towing it, I noticed the front rotors were beginning to warp. This was evidenced by a mildly pulsating brake pedal on light stops. After a long trip towing, I noticed the pulse had increased slightly but nothing horrible. After a second trip towing it in the summer, suddenly the pulse was extreme and the peddle spongy. I also smelled burning rubber after driving. Long story short: The dealer found the brake caliper boots to be completely melted and the rotors warped beyond repair. The working theory is that the minor warp that had been present for years caused the rotor to rub the brake pads for prolonged times when towed which caused friction and heat build up which caused more warping which caused more rubbing and so goes the vicious cycle until failure. Lesson is, if your car has any warp in the rotor, have them turned to avoid heat build up on long hauls.