campcop
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Posts posted by campcop
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All great suggestions. One more though, if you have a large mud flap on the rear, tie it up or remove it. It helps to keep the abundance of small rocks and gravel off your toad. Another thought as well, I found that a lot of the gravel parts have calcium chloride on them to keep the dust down, this when wet can cause a mess and also corrode your aluminum wheels. A good coat of wax on the wheels will help.
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Your Wrangler would be the newer model, a JL. The standard M&G brake system will not fit your model, but they now make a different one, give M&G a call, they are very helpful.
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If the valve is seeping, sometimes opening it and letting is snap closed a couple of times will remedy the seep. Also as mentioned, make sure there is an air pocket in the tank.
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Wow, you must have really had a twist in the frame to pop out the windshield. I’ve only read about a few occurrences of that.
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Sounds like you are getting power to the solenoid, I am assuming the motor is not running. Just because the solenoid makes a click does not mean it’s good. You can replace it, or first try the old hammer trick. Have some one operate the switch and tap on the solenoid. They can also be jumped with a heavy jumper wire.
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We did 62 days this past summer in BC, Yukon and AK. After a couple of days I did strap up my full width mud flap because it caused all sorts of rocks to fly up onto the Jeep, fortunately no damage. We did get two chips and cracks in the windshield though . And neither was on a gravel road but on good paved roads in BC..
Also be aware that in BC and Yukon and parts of AK, their idea of road paving and repair is gravel and oil. Also between the time they lay the gravel and oil it, they put sodium chloride on it to keep dust down, really does a number on metal and aluminum wheels.
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We have a 2018 37AP, we tow a 2018 Jeep Rubicon Recon with Smittybilt roof rack, winch and front bar. I really don’t know its behind me. As far as handling, can’t believe you could not tell the difference between the Red and the Bus. We previously had a 2014 Phaeton and the difference in handling was like night and day. The Bus has IFS, big difference when putting on the miles in the seat. I could also tell the difference in the power as well. Unless you plan on switching tow vehicles, I suggest you skip the Patriot and go with a permanent mount brake system like M&G.
As far as price, if you are willing to travel, you can get a better price from the big three near RB.
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If I recall correctly, Tiffin also had a problem with units starting around 2014. These were on the mid level coaches. The covers were not UltraLeather but something similar. Tiffin was replacing them for a few years and now I think they will just supply you with the covers and labor is on the owner. The problem was traced to the vendor supplying the covers.
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Chances are your inverter killed your batteries. Tiffin has put in a dedicated switch to disconnect the inverter when in storage. Also like someone mentioned, you should have been able to leave the coach plugged in without an additional charger and all should have been fine. Our coach is plugged in for months at a time when parked at home.
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Have you tried a reset of the inverter?
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If the cooler is leaking, you can also look in the radiator. If fluid made it there, there will be an oily sheen on the water.
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You might have a leak in the trans cooler that is allowing antifreeze into your trans.
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Personally I think they are a waste of money. Yes a few will say it paid for itself but I think you’ll find most never get their money’s worth.
if you are concerned about expensive repairs, instead of paying all that $$ up front, start your own savings account and put that money aside.
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Also, make sure the small clear plastic cup on the suction side is tight and or not cracked.
how old is the pump? Is this the first time this season you used it after being stored for the winter?
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We had a 2005 Sunnybrook, also had a rotted floor in the bedroom slide. It turns out that the outside facia on the slide out box was leaking. It leaked from the day we bought it and never knew till I found a huge ball of mold growing under the bed. I repaired it myself as the dealer had no clue. The design of the slide was faulty. If the trim facia was not properly caulked, water was channeled right into the slide floor. What I did was install flashing under the outside skin of the slide that extended over the bottom of the slide. This prevented water from entering the slide and was channeled out. From what I gather, Sunnybrook never did correct the problem and it appears that when they went under and were bought up by WB the problem was still present.
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Don’t know what kind of MH you have. It would help if you posted that. On ours, under the sink, in the cabinet there is an AAV, if you have one, it could be defective and sticking at times.
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We stayed there a few years ago on our way to CT. Reason being, the campgrounds are few and far between in that area. In any event, when we checked in we were met by what appeared to be summer help who were not very helpful. We had asked for a pullthru for our 40 QBH Phaeton, towing. We barely fit in the site and had a heck of a time getting out. In hindsight, we should have demanded another site but it was getting late and we just wanted to park. The campground does have some really nice sites that are large. I guess it depends if you are a long term guest or not. So if you book, make sure of what site they stick you in.
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I think it depends on the make and model. On ours , it’s jacks up, slides in.
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On 1/23/2019 at 10:44 AM, fagnaml said:Bill --
I the "Refining Guy" am curious why you use 5W-40 engine oil when I presume your Cummins owner's manual specifies the use of 15W-40 oil only? Compared to a 15W-40 engine oil, the 5W-40 oil "starts" with a lower viscosity base oil and then increases the amount of viscosity improvers and other additives to achieve the higher viscosity characteristics from a 40 weight needed for high temperature operation. I'm definitely not an engine expert, but I do know the 5W-40 oil provides less lubrication protection than 15W-40 when a cold engine is started (e.g. cold being above 32 F). The use of 5W-40 would be OK if the engine is designed for lower viscosity oil when starting and cold engine. Has Cummins approved the use of 5W-40 full synthetic oil in older engines such as you and I have?
As a general comment, engine manufactures (especially gasoline engines) have evolved engine design and migrated from 10W-40 to 10W-30 to 5W-30 to 5W-20 and now 0W-20 engine oil requirements as part of the on-going effort to improve engine fuel economy. The lower the oil viscosity, the less energy devoted to pumping the oil throughout the engine.
perhaps a typo??
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Not sure about your unit but on ours, there are indicator lights that tell you if the pumps are functioning properly , sounds like one of your pumps is not working.
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On 1/15/2019 at 10:24 AM, Aircherokee said:I just wanted to share with other members about my recent call with Safeco Insurance.
Spoke with a very helpful rep who answered my questions regarding my premium increase over last year. He was quoting a higher deductible to decrease my premium and when he matter of factly mentioned my RV's value, NADA industry rates shows my value as being $12,000 less than what my insurance coverage is at. He stated that I'd have to have documentation proving the value for anything over what the industry rates show.
As a result, we modified my policy to match the industry value resulting in an annual premium savings of $247.80.
With the savings, I figure it'll buy us a lot of "happy hour refreshments" that I can actually enjoy rather than paying unnecessary increased insurance premiums that won't taste as good.
Just thought I'd share.
Interesting that they wanted proof to raise your value but continued to charge you for a value they knew was too high...:(
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Don’t know about your model but on ours, the switches pop out after carefully prying them. The connections on the back were spade connectors.
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When we had an Atwood, the plug was part of annual maintenance..
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On 6/20/2018 at 8:56 AM, bellfree98 said:A problem with my 2017 Silverado Z71. I have towed it about 5,000 miles. On the last 2 trips(May and June) I have gotten a wobble while making a slow moving right turn. The manual has been followed, the case is in neutral, transmission is in neutral and the battery is disconnected. Once I stop in a straight line and restart I have not had a reoccurrence. Any similar experienc
Unless things were different for 2017 automatics , you should not be leaving your trans in neutral, but in Park. You will ruin the the trans.
i have not heard about any problems with wobbling front ends .. Does the 17s still have the locking steering wheel and if so, are you leaving the ignition in accessory?
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in Engines
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An online course on Diesel engines would be a good start.