campcop
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Posts posted by campcop
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I guess 6h/d means 6 hours a day? Why don’t you just leave it on 24/7 and not worry about whether the batteries are charged enough.
On our Phaeton we could turn off the inverter but batteries still would be charged. There was a seperate charger for the chassis batteries as well.
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I have run into experts like the one you spoke with at one time or another. I just nod and agree, later I just shake my head and wonder how these folks survive RVing..:)
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22 hours ago, Philc said:When you say air heater on the engine i assume you are referring to the grid heater for starting. I guess its possible though it has never done this before. If you are referring to the cockpit heat all lights and accessories are off.
Yes, the grid heater and yes on ours it cycles for a few minutes or less depending on the temps.
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17 hours ago, abyrd said:Joe,
I have a 8.3 ISC Cummins in my coach and it doesn't have a coolant filter, do you recommend installing coolant filter? I had the cooling system flushed last year at 50,000 miles and changed to Cummins ESComplete OATS coolant.
I understand you need different test strips to test the SCA for this coolant, if that the case do you have to get it from Cummins. Cummins NW has closed several of the shops on the I-5 corridor in WA state.
Jim
From what I have read on OATS coolant, the testing for SCAs is no longer required. An extender can be added after a certain amount of time.
As far as testing for SCAs, I used a petcock under the MH from a line that runs to the front heater. Test strips specifically state NOT to use the reservoir for testing. I assume due to contamination of anything floating in the reservoir.
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Are you sure it’s not the air heater on the engine drawing amps when you first start it up. Ours does that for several minutes. Even the lights will dim a bit when the heater cycles..
thats a common complaint over on the TVRN from folks that have just noticed this happen or new owners.
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Yes, I would be curious what the SCA levels were. I may be mistaken but Cummins requires it be checked frequently. I check ours several times a year and kept levels within the required levels. I kept receipts of the additive and photos of the test strips.
In random conversations in our travels, I was surprised how many owners do not know that have to check the levels.
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17 hours ago, DBH said:Thanks - thats a good suggestion. But such a pity that we have to resort to the BBB when purchasing a coach with a price tag of $750,000!
Really surprised that they took the view 'TOUGH, we can legally do this!'
Kinda sets the feeling for future purchases for me!
Whoever you spoke with surely needs a few lessons in customer service, unless.....you were less than civil with him or her. But in any case, my first response would be to write the President of the company with your complaint and ask that the correct mattress be provided.
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I sanitize the fresh water once in the spring, I use two filters, one at the campground water outlet and then a 5 micron carbon filter onboard. As far as black tank, there are many different chemicals and bio additives, the most important thing is to use PLENTY of water and try not to dump your black tank until it’s at least half full, this helps prevent the dreaded pyramid .
grey tanks can smell pretty rank too, a few times during our travels in the summer I will add a couple of cups of dishwasher detergent to the tank and fill it 2/3 full , drive to our next stop and then dump, you can do this for the black as well. Some folks use a strong pine cleaner in the tanks as well.
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How much space is there between the door and the jamb in the area of the dead bolt? If you have an 1/8” or more, you can try running a narrow bead of RTV above and down both sides of the deadbolt, this would keep any moisture from running into the deadbolt area
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As said, you should be able to find the heater core and hoses on the passenger side of the front of the coach. If you determine the heater core itself is leaking, just disconnect both hoses and put a piece of piping between them for a bypass. Chances are you’ll find a leak at the connections or a chaffed hose. I would suspect that if the core was leaking you would see fluid in the coach or at the very least, smell it.
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I use a lock lubricant that is basically a solvent and graphite. Been using it for a few years on all my locks at home and in the MH.
Panef lock lubricant aerosol.
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Glad you found it right away. Happened at our house years ago, when the neutral was lost, some light bulbs in the house went off like flash bulbs. It actually blew up a built in surge protector I had in house service panel. Lost some electronics too, some failed a few months later.
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Could be as simple as cleaning the terminals.
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Blue Ox makes one that clamps both sides of the bar, a bit $$ but it works very well.
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Not knowing your MH brand, I strongly suspect that it does not have the EMS like you describe. Our Phaeton had EMS but it did not really protect from surges, missing neutral etc, only managed the internal power usage. Transfer switches offer some protection but not enough for me. Suggest you invest in a good external EMS like Progressive. Better to be safe than sorry. We have run across many a campground with poor electrical service, like low voltage , fake 50 amp service, surges etc.
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We have come across some parks that ask the age etc. Frankly, after stopping in some RV parks on our travels, we are all for it.
Sadly we have noticed that the number of “full time residents” in Rv parks has been increasing and by this I mean RVs that looked like they haven’t been moved in a long time nor could they be moved. This seems more prevalent in the “oil” or pipeline States but is spreading. We have stopped at a couple of parks where there were only a couple of sites available for travelers, and these were fairly well rated campgrounds in GS, but that’s another story.
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Our Phaeton chassis batteries were not charged by the inverter but had a seperate charger near the chassis battery compartment.
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Ice in the bottom of the freezer could be a clogged drain. What make is it.
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On 3/29/2014 at 11:48 AM, hanko said:They (Allied) have the best ban for the buck so far.
That's till you make a claim. Then the rates go up dramatically
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Depends on what brand you have
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What color is the trans fluid? When was it changed last?
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Does your Mh have both the check engine and Stop engine lights. The check engine is normally yellow and the stop is red. If it's the yellow, I think you would be safe to drive it to the dealer. If you are hesitant, call the dealer or the Ford help line.
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Not familiar with your coach, but if it has air bags, then I would check the ride height, especially the rear as this could affect the angle of the U joint and cause a vibration.
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Operator never came back, I guess we'll never know what happened
Roof A/C compressor not working?
in Systems and Appliances
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First thing I would check is the output of the genset. Are you getting power to both legs? Check the breakers on the genset.
#2 sounds like a bad start capacitor if it’s drawing that much or a frozen compressor. Either way, they should be under warranty. Give a Mobile tech a call that services them.