QuiGonJohn

We have decided to go with a scooter instead of a towed vehicle. We have a 26' Winnebago Aspect and do not want the extra length and other inconveniences a towed vehicle brings. We used to get around at destinations with just our bicycles. But now that we are semi-retired and plan more and longer trips, we want a little more range, flexibility and speed than the bikes provided. I am looking for recommendations on a good scooter. I know 50cc or less and we don't have to worry about motorcycle endorsement. But would that be under-powered for my wife & I both riding the one scooter? I weigh about 155 and she weighs about 140. If that is not powerful enough, the other main options seem to be 150cc or 250cc. Any feedback as to this aspect of our goal would be appreciated. Also recommendations of brands and/or models. We plan to get a carrier that connects into our tow rig and has the small flip over ramp to put the scooter on or take it down. We will then move our bicycles to a ladder mount, as we still might use them for bike trails, etc.

Put in the Bilstein Steering Damper a couple weeks ago. First drive with it today. Does seem to make a big difference over my old one. Which was dead and just along for the ride. There was no resistance in that one any more.

I have a 2006 Winnebago Aspect 26A (on the Ford E-450 chassis). It has a steering damper on the front of the suspension bars, and it is leaking. I want to replace it and have found 2 that will work. One is Bilstein and the other is Monroe. The Monroe is significantly less costly than the Bilstein. Bilstein is $99 and the Monroe is $26. https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2006/ford/e450_super_duty/steering/steering_damper.html The current one, which might be the OEM, looks very much like the Monroe. The Bilstein is basically the same, just adds the rubber boot over the shaft. Anyone have experience or knowledge as to any good reason to go with the more costly Bilstein, or should the Monroe suffice nicely? Also, I just noticed they have 2 different Bilstein's that would seem to fit my vehicle. They both say "Front" but one talks about Dual Rear Wheels. What do they mean by that. How could I tell which Bilstein to order, if I don't go with the Monroe? Due to shipping, it is actually cheaper to order the $102 Bilstein than the $99 Bilstein. So if I do choose Bilstein, I'd like to order the $102, if it would work. Is there only one of these on my RV or am I missing seeing a second one?

Richard, the Dryer has 3 wires to the receptacle, Hot 120v on leg, Hot 120v other leg and Neutral. It also uses a physical ground. I connected my circuit using one hot leg and the neutral, as well as a ground connected to the ground wire inside the receptacle junction box. I wired this years ago, probably 2013 and it has been fine. Unless the A/C is on, we are most likely not pulling much amperage at all in the RV, with everything off and the batteries on a float charge. But just to be safe, I make sure the A/C is not running when we use the dryer in the house. I will look into picking up one of those power tester plugs, as it is probably easier than trying to get the meter probes into sockets, sometimes. manholt, the TV specifically states under 125° if it is just ambient temperature, TV not on, no power to it

So this circuit is 30 amp, the breaker is a 30 amp breaker. The dryer's outlet box was grounded and I connected that ground to the ground for the TT-30R receptacle I put for the RV. I just tested the voltages again and they are proper at the RV receptacle. Interesting to note that the dryer receptacle does not have a connection for a ground lead. But I think it is grounded by how it attaches to the metal receptacle box when the receptacle itself is properly screwed into the outlet box, then that is passed to the ground wire which goes off into the conduit that feeds this receptacle box. We mostly don't use the RV while parked there. But I like to keep it plugged in for the house batteries (I put in an advanced converter/charger not too long after I bought the RV). Also, so that I can keep the A/C on to protect electronics from Extreme Heat. I keep the A/C set, when we are not in there and it is just parked, at the highest setting, 98°. Warm for people, but fine for electronics. We put in a new TV a few years back and the first one died prematurely, (exchanged under warranty). At the time we were not keeping the A/C on. Well I researched it and the manuf of the TV indicated the max temperature for it to be exposed to (when not in use) was 125°. Did it get that hot in there before we started keeping the air on? Maybe, maybe not. But now, keeping it at a max of 98° should prevent damage to it or any other electronics.

One other update on my steps. A couple months ago, just before Thanksgiving, I mounted a mud flap to the rear end of a compartment that sits just in front of my steps. I figure this will help to keep the steps (motor, linkage, etc.) from getting quite as cruddy from driving. When the steps are retracted, this mud flap hangs just as low as the bottom of the whole step assembly, and as wide, from the edge of the coach and inward, as the step assembly itself is.

I know this is an older thread, but thought I'd give a little info, in case anyone else is looking here to do this. Shortly after I got my MH (2006 Winnebago Aspect 26A ... 30 Amp), I installed a 30 Amp RV receptacle on the side of my house where I park my RV. I tapped into the Dryer Circuit, which happened to be on the opposite side of the garage wall from where I park the RV and wanted to place the outlet. I drilled a hole thru the cinder block, just a few inches from the Dryer outlet. Killed the power, then connected wiring to just one side (leg) of the Dryer circuit, (being certain I was only getting 120v not 220v). Ran heavy gauge wire thru conduit out to the box I put on the outer wall, then wired in the 30A outlet and ran a little more wire further to give myself a regular 20A home outlet (outdoor) as well (to use for other things). After all done, I tested again to be absolutely certain I had 120v at the new outlets on the outside wall. This gives me very heavy gauge wiring back to my breaker panel (by means of the already existing dryer wire) and I put pretty heavy wiring for the 1.5 to 2 feet of wire from the dryer outlet to the new outlet. The only caveat is I feel to not overload, the A/C in the RV and the Dryer itself, should not be run at the same time. Simple enough to be sure of.

We stayed home thru Irma and due to power going out, we actually rode out the storm passing by in our MH. I had it parked where the house shielded 2 sides. Already had the fridge cold. So when we lost power, we moved perishables into the MH, went in there, started the generator and had AC and local TV channels thru the storm. We were also fortunate that we were only w/o power in the house from 11:30am Sunday until about 8:30pm Sunday. Just the time Irma was near us. We live about 15 miles from the east coast by Ft Lauderdale. Irma went up the west coast and it was scary here. I'd of hated to be in the center of that when it first hit Florida, until it weakened a lot.

Got the replacement step light a couple weeks ago and finally got around to installing it, (delays due to Hurricane Irma, etc.). Works great, so it was just the unit went bad, I gather a break internal to one of the leads, or corrosion, whatever.

A FOLLOW-UP TO OUR INSTALL - FOR ANYONE WHO READS THIS THREAD AND MAY SEE THE SAME ISSUE. As mentioned in prior posts, we replaced our original CRT Style with a larger LED Panel. This TV works on 12vdc and I happened to have a connector in the TV Space with the correct size pin head on it. So when I first mounted the TV I connected this and it worked on the house batteries. But ... over time I noticed that we'd get noise and the picture would get bad. Finally I took the original cord that came with this TV, regular 120vac plug, with an inline transformer and coming out of that 12vdc to plug into the TV. After switching to this setup and of course, on inverter when not plugged into shore power or on the generator, my noise/distortion issue went away. So I gather when on the straight 12vdc from the coach, the TV was susceptible to variations in voltage causing the noise/distortion. So I just thought I'd pass this info along.

I also just tried baring the wire very close to the part the bulb connects to, then touching that spot and the ground plate on the bulb assembly to 12v, no light. Same pair of 12v wires I used when connected direct to the bulb I do get light. So it really looks like it is a problem in the socket the bulb plugs into.

Checked for fuses, breakers etc. no issues there. Pulled the cover off the step light, then unscrewed step light from coach. Tested with 12v. Bulb is good (12v direct to each side of bulb). But when I connect 12v to the light assembly wire and touch to ground on the light assembly it will not light, (it did light one time for a brief second, but mostly no go). I figure either the wire has a break internally or the socket is messed up (as in the hot wire not connecting into it good or it's internal ground to the assmebly is no longer a good ground). So it looks like I need to order a replacement step light assembly. Does that sound right? Any other suggestions?

Coach is a Winnebago Aspect 26A (2006). Are you saying a fuse for the step light? My first thought was to connect 12v direct to the one wire going to the light and see if the light illuminates. (I gather it only has 1 wire and uses physical ground to complete the circuit.) Perhaps with the grinding we had to do to remove the gear assembly from the step, either the bulb or fuse broke.

So I finally got my steps working. I had ordered the motor from American RV, but had a battle with broken bolts. Had to unbolt the entire step assembly from the coach. Then remove the motor and gear linkage. Open the gear linkage to set the main gear to use the "other 180", put that back together after repairing the broken motor bolt (wound up welding a stud into the hole). Put it all together and back on the coach. Steps work nice now. But now the light does not work. Any guidance on "changing the bulb" or other reason the light may not be working. Man these steps have sure been a hassle. Worst case, we can live without the light.

Wayne, yes, in fact I downloaded and saved the guide. Right now it looks like I'll either order from there or American RV (I think that comes just a little cheaper). I plan to order tonight or tomorrow at the latest.

Do you happen to remember, or have paperwork with Auto Zone's part number, then I could directly match it. All I know is I held mine up against the closest LTD one I could find, and the mounting holes did not line up.

Amazon has one too, but it is listed as the Kwikkee 1101428. I thought I read somewhere that the Lippert 379147 was improved, higher torque.

Well I took apart the gear box, what a mess in there. I think I will just get the new motor assembly. I struck out at Auto Zone, the one I posted above, the mounting holes do not line up and they did not have any others. Very close match, but w/o the mounting holes right, I'd be out of luck. So it looks like I will pay a little more and order the Lippert motor from American RV, $64.16 plus shipping.

I just looked this up on Auto Zone's website. They do not show an 89 Ford LTD, 86 is latest, then it jumps up to 2010. If I start with Year, then Ford, no LTD shows up. As to the gearbox, it seems you mean the smaller gearbox, directly connected to the motor, that is how I removed it. But NOT the larger Gear Linkage Box, shown here on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005G21JCU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER So from the Auto Zone site I see this one: http://www.autozone.com/collision-body-parts-and-hardware/window-lift-motor/dorman-window-lift-motor/41182_479487_0_78655?fromString=search&make=&model=&year= This seems to be the closest, although on my original one, the electrical connector is on the lower side of the motor, as pictured, not near the top. But the orientation of motor to gear box, and gear box holes seems to be the same. This is the page with all motors for the 86 Ford LTD. http://www.autozone.com/collision-body-parts-and-hardware/window-lift-motor?filterByKeyWord=89 ford ltd&isIgnoreVehicle=true&fromString=search Did this also come with new mounting bolts?

So I got my RV back today and worked on the step again. First I removed the pin and unlinked the step from the motor. With the steps unlinked the motor seems to work fine. But maybe it's getting weak. I removed the motor, one bolt broke so I have to find a replacement for that. Anyway, the gear on the motor and the large gear inside the gear box, both look fine. They are metal and I don't see any broken teeth or anything like that. So I am not sure what to do next.

desertdeals, if I go that route I will pull the assembly and take it with me to match it up. Have to wait to get the RV home, so I can pull the assembly and check it out.

Herman, did Blues2go take you up on that? If not, I could use them. Have my RV at the shop and they say motor is bad, but since it works sometimes, I think it might also be a gear and not the actual motor. When I get the RV back I will be pulling the motor and checking it out. Also, I thought when I first started this thread I had come across a link for the motor, I think it was about $67. Well I cannot find that and once again I tried using the SEARCH. I went to the MAIN PAGE for the FORUM, I did a SEARCH of ALL CONTENT on both "steps" and then also on "kwikkee". I did not come up with any other related thread, except this thread, (and when I put in "step" a whole bunch of others, "the first step is to ..."). Can someone help with a link? Also, how can I tell if my motor is right hand or left hand, as mentioned in Wayne's post. Looking at it, I suppose it depends on the angle you view it from.

I was just getting back to leenp & manholt's comments. FYI, this morning the indicator is red again. I'm baffled. This is an RV sitting locked up on the side of my house.

Well I just looked in my Operator's Manual and Operator's Manual Supplement and cannot tell if the bathroom (hallway) sink drains to grey or black. But the parts breakdown of my model does make it seem like it drains to the grey. They show that sink separate, near the top, then down by the pic of the black tank (which is closer to that sink), they show a line, with a p-trap and that line goes to the grey tank. Next time I am connected to sewage I will test by putting the water on full at that sink and looking into the black tank. If it is draining there I should be able to tell by doing that. I believe the sink (21) gets is attched to the line at the p-trap (14) that is directly over the black tank, and that line (13) goes to the grey tank in this diagram.

kps, I do the Calgon water softener method. When I first bought this RV the sensors gave me all sorts of weird readings. After doing that method it has been good until now. Funny thing is when I dumped and the first 2 weeks parked at home, it always showed empty. I'm wondering if some animal (lizard) maybe somehow got in there splashing around to get the sensors wet. Otherwise not sure why it would have suddenly been giving me this high reading. Wolfe, might try the buckets, now that I am pretty sure there is not much in there.