QuiGonJohn

So an update. Maybe it is the sensors being wonky. I went to check again, now the lights only show 2/3 flickering. Full is out, 1/3 & Empty are both lit. I looked into the tank, from the toilet, but instead of just looking I took a long stick and lowered it into the tank. From this, it seems that only about 1 to 2 inches of tank have liquid and above that, anywhere from 4 to 6 inches or so, there is not water. I was worried it might start overflowing, just sitting there. I feel a little better now. I will monitor it daily until I pull the RV out for our next trip, the first weekend in June. Wow kps, I just did this before reading your post. No honeywagon here to try that with.

Well when I looked in the tank today, no water connected, water pump off. It looked like I could see the water level I'd say about 4" below the bottom of the whole assembly where the toilet attaches to the floor and into the tank. I am nearly 100 certain that no plumbing goes to the tank, only to feed the flow to the toilet valve. Mine is foot operated and does not seem to be leaking. Also the level in the toilet bowl did not go up which I would expect if the valve to flush was leaking. Our is the kind you press a little to get water flowing and press a little further to open the valve to actually empty the toilet. My thought was possibly rain into the vent tube. But the cap/cover on the vent tube seems to be fine, (I went on the roof to check that).

They do share a common drain. But both valves are shut. We have used a little water to clean and such, but nowhere near the 30+ gals the black and grey tanks hold (Black 32 & Grey 37). I also took the drain cover plate off and no water leaking out, it was pretty dry in between the 2 dump valves and I reached in and felt the dump valves and they seem shut correctly. If the dump valves were leaking I would expect there should have been some water pooled there.

2006 Winnebago Aspect 26A. Came home from a weeklong trip on 4/28. We dumped the morning we left and used the toilet a very little bit on the drive home. Been in the RV doing some projects, (vacuuming, put in a stereo, etc,), have not used the bathroom. NOT connected to city water and the water pump has been off. Periodically I check levels, just as a practice when I am in the RV, it had been reading empty (just green light at the bottom). Yesterday I checked and the Black Tank was flashing RED for the full light. Today it was solid RED and I opened the valve and shined a flashlight into the tank and it does appear to be nearly full. Not sure how this can be. I don't think anyone has gone in there and filled the tank. We keep the RV locked, parked on the side of our house. I had thought the sensors were just whacked, but not since visually looking at the level. Don't know what else it could be. I think the way they systems are plumbed, even if the water pump were on, unless the toilet valve was ON or leaking, I don't think there is any other connection that allows water to the Black Tank. Anyone ever heard of a similar problem? Any ideas?

manholt, funny our original unit had Sirius, we never used it. Still have the box under the driver's seat. I had been using the MP3 Player, but this Micro SD is gonna be much nicer. I can view the folders (artists) and song list for each folder, right on the screen. And 32GB is a lot of space. My MP3 Player is only 8GB and I had about 5GB used.

Wow, still not getting notification emails when people respond, sorry. Since I posted it has been quirky, sometimes works sometimes not. We are home and right now the steps are extended and I disconnected power so they won't retract. When I get some time I plan to go under it again and look for debris or other issues with the linkage and gear. In fact I hope to be able to take the cover off one area and see what is going on in there. I also thought to remove the cover from the control board and possibly try reseating any connectors or electronics I find there, that this can be done to. Then see how that does. In the mean time, we bought a cheap, foldable step we can place there, if the regular steps don't come out for us when we stop someplace. Frustrating, since I got it working back in Nov and hadn't had a problem all that time.

So on our last camping trip, we stopped in at some Camping Worlds, among other things we were looking for possibly a new stereo for the dashboard unit. The old one had several buttons that would no longer work. If they had one, we would have had them install it. Well it turns out they do not have any or do that. But the guy talked with us about what we wanted and recommended Crutchfield. We saw a model we really liked at Walmart and Crutchfield had almost the exact same unit. We ordered it and they gave us a bunch of help with a dash installation kit and wiring harness for our Ford E-450. We installed it last weekend. Had a few hurdles to get over, the wiring was slightly different. Onto the factory connector, Winnebago added a harness used to control power to the stereo so it either came from the Engine Battery or the House Batteries. But I was able to wire that into the harness from Crutchfield. Also had a bit of difficulty cutting the opening wider to fit the stereo, but finally got it all worked out. One thing about this stereo that I kind of knew, but did not realize it would be such a benefit is, it has a place in the right side to insert a Micro SD Card, up to 32GB. I got a 32GB card. So I will be able to load that up with my entire music library and it will all be selectable from the Touch Screen on the front of the stereo. No messing with an MP3 Player, iPhone or other Smartphone bluetoothing into it, etc. Basically, the stereo will be loaded with all my music available whenever we want it. Originally, I planned to use my MP3 Player with this stereo in the AUX jack, but this is so much better and more convenient. Attached are two pics of the installed stereo.

So now, a little over 5 months since I got my steps working, they are acting up again. We went to 2 state parks in the Fla panhandle last week, from South Florida. They worked the evening we left and the first night we stopped. Continued to work the second day on the road and the night we spent at Walmart. When we left there that morning they worked, but the next time we stopped nothing, they would not extend. When we were at our destination I connected wires direct to the motor and could not get the step motor to move. I unhooked the release so the steps just hung down and tried attaching wires and now I could get the motor to move, so I figured it was not the motor. I left them in the extended position at the campground, with the power cord unhooked so they would not retract. I also lubed all the pivot points of the steps to be sure it was not am issue of just needing to be oiled. When we left the campground, I reconnected the power, they retracted and I tested and they extended and retracted as they should. At our first stop for gas we had to stop at the pumps and then move and do a few things, they worked fine both times. At our next stop, a couple hours later, they stopped working again. Any ideas on what may be causing this? I already tried doing the same thing to the connector at the motor, like I did back in November, this time that does not seem to help.

Sorry to revive an old thread, but didn't want to start a new one in the wrong place. Just found out that I ought to replace my CO detector. Any recommendations on the brand or model. I have found a wide assortment, in all kinds of price ranges. Thanks,

Started this project this weekend. Yesterday we did about half of the driver's side. (our dining room slideout). We planned on doing the other half of that side today, Sunday, but too rainy today. But the part we did looks great, so over the next few weekends we hope to do all of the RV fiberglass areas. UPDATE - Feb 4th - we did the second half of the driver's side, everything aft of the dining room slide out. Looks good so far. Next up, we hope to be able to do the entire passenger side next weekend, (but it may take 2 weekends, we'll see). UPDATE - Feb 12th - we did the whole passenger side, front half on Saturday and rear half today. It's really looking good. Next up we will do the back end one weekend and then the front end, just the fiberglass, not the metal cab, another weekend. Then I will probably follow that with doing the roof, over several sessions. UPDATE - Feb 26th - we did the back end today. RV is looking good and nice to know I am protecting the fiberglass.

On purchasing 3030 Aerospace to use on my decals (and tires). I see regular, automotive and also marine. Each one is a little more costly than the previous. Is the regular good enough or should I get one of the others. My thinking was right now I have none on the decals, so even the regular should be good.

So it looks like the Fiberglass Oxidation Removal Kit would be good to start with. And it shows it at $39.99 so not too pricey, especially if I can do the whole RV with one kit. On the 303 Aerospace, any good sources other than I found it on Amazon for $19.99 for 32 ounces, or is it something I could find in a local store?

jleamont, thanks. I clicked that link. Which product there is the gel coat restoration kit? Which one of their wax's would you recommend? Are you saying to clean first, then use Gel Coat Restoration and then follow it up with the Gel Coat Wax? Ian, will try powdered Tide to clean. I cleaned the roof a couple weeks ago with soap and Dawn and a hand held scrub brush. I got it much better, but did not get all of it completely clean. Any of these products good to use on the decals, without actually replacing the decals?

Recently had my RV (26' Winnebago Aspect) worked on at my local RV shop. Whilst there they cleaned it up a lot, really well. The owner was telling me I had a lot of mildew in the fiberglass and they probably cleaned about 90% of the coach real good. A few places, roof, along awnings, etc. still need some cleaning. So I am looking for something to use to clean all that real well. Then, the owner also told me I need to wax it, and make sure I use a certain type of wax meant for fiberglass, not regular wax for an auto. I think he said something like a marine wax. Can you help me with these products and tips for doing all this? While always conscious of cost, I don't mind spending a little more when it is well worth it. For example, if PRODUCT A is very expensive and PRODUCT B is a good bit more reasonable than PRODUCT A, but does nearly as good a job, I might go with B. However, if PRODUCT A does a fantastic job and nothing else even comes close in comparison, then I'd spend on A. Also, recommendations for rejuvenating the decals that came on the motorhome. These are the design and name decals originally supplied from Winnebago. footnote: I looked for an EXTERIORS SUB FORM but did not see one. But did see another post here about RV Roof Armor Product, so I figured this was along similar topic lines.

I know what you mean. Too bad they can't structure under something like "SYSTEMS AND APPLIANCES" to have Sub-Forums for Heating, LP Gas, AIr Conditioning, Steps, etc. Or in another area, like Slideout has it's own, maybe that could be Slideouts and Steps.

Yeah! Finally got it working. Besides all the help here I found a video on You Tube where the guy talks about the connector where the power plugs into the motor. This is a 2 pin connector, right on the motor. I also watched a manufacturer's video on testing. I disconnected this connector and hooked the motor direct to 12 vdc. Got it to work in both directions. Then I took his advice about putting a slight twist on these prongs. Reconnected everything and it all seems to work right now. I have to replace the pin and lube all the joints, but it looks like this is resolved. Thanks again for all the help. I have included the links to the 2 videos I mentioned below, in case others come along and need this help. How to fix plug right at motor Kwikee Electric Steps Diagnostics

So I finally had a chance to work on this again. I got the steps free. It was not a cotter pin, but a pin with a "C" clip on one end. Clip came off easy enough, had to hammer the pin out. Now steps are free to move. Still no action from the motor. I get just a small amount of movement on the arm that attached to the steps. I guess next I will have connect wires to the battery to test the motor. Also the arm is in 2 parts, one connected right to the gear box, then another on a rounded joint. That moves quite a bit, not only turn but can move some vertically. Not sure if this is normal.

Thanks all for more feedback. Have to fly out of town for a long weekend, so this will be on my project list for next week

manholt - I did a search and really did not find much more than what is already in this thread. abyrd - I will look at unhooking the linkage if the test I plan to try with wires to the battery does not yield anything useful or get it working. It seems perhaps where the linkage bolts to the bar that it rotates, I might be able to take that off. I have to look closer at it.

So no luck with the ground wire. Sanded the lug and the contact surface, new bolt, nut & washer, still not working. Guess next I will try to rig up 2 wires to my battery and connect to the connector and see if I can get the motor to respond. My manual mentions which colors should move the motor in which direction. Frustrating because I cannot even extend the steps manually to better get at the motor.

Well it was very difficult to remove the ground wire, the bolt wound up breaking. Preliminarily, it is not a ground problem. But I have yet to sand the lug as well as the grounding plate and re-attach it. Tomorrow, hopefully. Does anyone know where I can get this testing pigtail the manual mentions? It's starting to look like I'll wind up buying a cheap step I can place there when the motorhome is parked. Right now a cinder block is serving that purpose. BTW, I do not seem to be getting Topic Updates, even though my email address is correct and I have that box checked to get the updates.

So I did not get anywhere with banging on the motor. I see the arm that as best I recall, rotates position when the motor operates. But have been unable to move that arm. I also see a green wire, with it's own wire cover, that does seem to bolt to the chassis, so this must be ground. Could that wire at ground be the problem even though the lamp under the steps works right? I guess if the lamp is grounded itself, it may not use that wire.

I will work on these suggestions. I went back to the FORUM HOME, but did not see a "STEP" Section, Electrical, Chassis, Systems and others, but did not see "STEP" Where can I find that? Carl, as best as I can tell, there is only one set of Door Contacts, a magnetic contact on the Screen Door and the Door Jamb, this functions correctly for the light under the step, so I would imagine it is the same for controlling the step itself.

I have a 2006 Winnebago Aspect 26A on a Ford E450. Have Kwikkee steps (single step). The step stopped working. Camped this past weekend, it was fine all weekend. Stopped at a park to have lunch on the way home, steps would not extend. Tried everything I can. Even looked at the manual (which I have for the motorhome and the steps are in there), but I could not make heads nor tails of this problem. And I am usually pretty good with things, swapped TV's in the motorhome on my own and have done other maint/repair work, changed genset spark plug and oil, etc. Can anyone help me with some simple steps to t/s. The steps have a light under them. It goes on if you open the door and out if you close it. I have 2 breakers for the steps, (round push type), they both seem fine. Any help would be appreciated. I really hope to fix this without a visit to the RV Shop.

The model I got, Insiginia NS-32D312NA15, is listed as $9 per year. And actually, when I did the replacement I saw they already had a 12vdc plug there, this TV has a 12vdc jack and it is even the same physical size, so I have the TV connected with that, so I can run the TV on the battery w/o using the inverter, if I ever want or need to.