QuiGonJohn

When I changed the oil back in June, (when I started this thread), I went with the 10W30 they recommended at the Auto Parts Store. Since then I have put over 5800 miles on the RV, with a trip to the Grand Canyon and back, as well as a shorter in state trip prior to the Grand Canyon trip. So I just changed the oil again, and this time I went with the Ford recommended 5W20. After reading all the good input here I figure I don't want to take a chance of messing anything up in the long term. Although I did not notice any difference in the way it ran, or using an excessive amount of oil. But as Brett recommends, I will follow the recommendations of the Ford engineers, going forward.

Well I did a lot of research yesterday on this topic, Google which led me mostly to a lot of different RV related forums. It seems there is no real consensus and a wide range of opinions on using the Tow/Haul Mode. Some people said you should use it all the time, while others said only when you "notice you need it". Some people thought it would improve gas mileage (less torque convertor slippage), while others said it would lower overall gas mileage if used all the time, (engine RPM would average out much higher, more gas). I will say that on our trip out to the Grand Canyon, including "mountainess regions" across NM and in AZ, on my MH I did not use it, (I never have used it so far), my MH seemed to handle things well. On uphills it would jump up about an additional 1000 rpm to get us up hills. And on at least 2 steep downgrades it seemed to adjust without applying brakes, to help keep the speed from running away. I could feel the transmission "change" and the engine noise change and it kept speed under control. This was all on Cruise Control, without the T/H engaged. So I don't know the best way to make use of T/H. Other than I might try it on an future steep downgrades to see how it differs.

Tim, I never pressed it, as I was afraid if there was no light, it could be "on" and no way to know if I successfully turned it "off". So if I am not towing anything, it sounds like the only real use I would have would be to engage it for very steep downgrades, to provide a sort of "engine brake" effect. Does that sound about right. The MH weighs a bit under 12,000 lbs loaded and I do not tow a vehicle.

I have a 2006 Winnebago Aspect 26A on the Ford E-450 cutaway chassis with the V10 gas engine. On the end of my shift lever there is a TOW/HAUL BUTTON. Can someone explain what exactly it does and how I should make use of it? Also, if I press it, is there some indicator light that should come on that will let me know it is "ON" so I can turn it off when finished using it? In other words, I would not want it to be in a state that I cannot tell if it is on or off. Thanks!

Well, I think I figured it out. Basically, the AAA Digest is wrong. I went to the FL Motor Vehicle Website and looked it up. A Class E license allows you to drive a vehicle that is less than 26,001 lbs. http://www.flhsmv.gov/ddl/dlclass.html There is a Class E Learner (Learner's Permit), and it is limited to 8,000 lbs. Here is the link to their Florida Info, scroll down to see the incorrect data. http://drivinglaws.a...r-laws/florida/ Moral of the story, don't rely on everything within the AAA Digest as 100% accurate, it may not be.

I just looked at this and had a question regarding Driver License types. I live in Florida and have a regular driver's license, (which they call Class "E"). According to the AAA Digest, that allows me to drive a vehicle that is less than 8,000 lbs. My MH weighed in at 11,830. Yet everyone I talked to, (the people at the dealership I bought it from, my father-in-law who is a full-timer, and several others), have said all I need is a regular license to drive it. Can anyone explain this discrepancy?

Oaks & Pines looks good. They are even in Passport America. http://passportamerica.com/campgrounds/fl/oaksnpinesrvresort and http://www.oaks-n-pines.com/

Well we did our Grand Canyon road trip. 2 weeks on the road, from home, Ft Lauderdale, FL, to the Grand Canyon and back again. Our first real road trip in our RV, (bought it in April and had only done some weekend outings until this). Had a real great time, stopped to see my brother in Shreveport on the way out and on the way back. Also saw another brother who lives in Phoenix and spent 2 days and nights with us at Mather Campground. Then on the way home we visited yet another brother who also lives in Phoenix, but could not come up to the canyon. We saw the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest as well. Stayed in 5 Passport America campgrounds (one night each), while on the road. It was a very enjoyable and mostly relaxing trip.

No problem. I just thought maybe there was something I was missing, some other way to fill them besides vents on the top.

I'm gonna recheck the voltage tomorrow, after the MH is plugged in overnight. But how can I add water, it says, "do not attempt to open the vents" and the caps seem to be sealed in place and smooth with the top of the battery.

After reading this thread I decided to check my house batteries with a volt meter. I have what appears to be (2) Deka SeaMate 12v batteries connected in parallel. These do not have access to check water levels. Visually, they seem pretty new, at least new looking. Anyway, across them, with the house disconnect switch in the disconnect position, I measure 12.35vdc. I will be connecting the MH to AC tonight to begin cooling the fridge for a trip on Friday. Do I have any worries here?

So I did the Sea Foam Spray Treatment on the Genset and it seems to have helped. Would you do the same kind of spray treatment on the RV's actual engines carburetor. My thinking was, if it did so good on the Genset, it couldn't hurt to clean the engines carb good, and might slightly improve fuel mileage. But is there any reason I should NOT do that? Something it might damage, or whatever.

I tried to find the same thing at JC Whitney and Camping World, but was unable to. I tried several searches on each site.

It says in my manual: Engine Stopped Fault Corrective Actions: 1. Check and fill fuel 2. LPG (N/A) 3. Check/Secure Spark Plug Lead 4. Replace Spark Plus 5. Service Air Cleaner 6. Check for mechanical damage. In my original post, I described the steps I took, as related to these things. Herman, that opening I mentioned is showing in my book as access to the Oil Drain Plug. Do you think the fuel filter would be in that area, as well. That is the only trap door of any sort on the bottom of the generator. I looked around it some more and did some Google searches and it seems the fuel line goes into the genset from the left side along the bottom. There is a rubber cover there, (that the fuel filter tip sticks thru ... with the fuel line clamped on). So it seems one has to undo the clamp, pull the fuel line off, remove the rubber cover, then replace the fuel filter, then reverse the process. Problem is space is kinda tight to work there.

Thanks for all the info. I will definitely pickup Seafoam, as well as another Fuel Filter, (if I can find it within this trap door). I do see an opening that has an oblong oviod metal cover, held in place with 2 allen head screws, so I am assuming it is under that. I have attached a pic of the carb, as it sits in the genset. From what I saw on the Seafoam site, I guess I need to remove the air filter and spray the seafoam in that way, (the air filter goes off to the left of the carb, in this photo). One thing I should mention, when I was doing all this testing and troubleshooting yesterday, it was hot as blazes out, (so hot metal tools laying in the sun got to hot to handle). The side of the RV with the generator, and the generator itself, were exposed to this heat. I did another test this morning, much cooler out. It started fine and once or twice ran rough, just at first. After about 3 minutes with no load (or minimal charging house batts), I turned on the A/C and after 10 minutes with it running, I added in the refrigerator. After 5 more minutes I shut off the A/C & fridge, let it run 2 more minutes to cool a little, then turned off the genset. All through this, except for the slight issue after initial start, it seemed to run fine. When doing Google searches on this yesterday, I read that some people think a problem like this could be vapor lock due to excessive heat. What do you guys think, in regards to all this additional info? Thanks again!

It is a 2006, I gather the genset came with the RV. Would the carb issue allow it to run 5 to 15 min's fine, then start acting up? How would I use Seafoam? Add to the fuel or are you talking remove/disassemble the carb?

The only mention of it in the Generator manual is the Periodic Maintenance Schedule table. They list it as every 450 hours, (which I am way short of), and say "must be performed by qualified mechanic". I did not see it anywhere and it is not shown in any of the diagrams.

Don't know, as we just bought the RV in April, but the genset has about 124 hours on it. Does the genset have it's own fuel filter or does it share the one with the chassis?

I have an Onan 4KY Genset and it has started having problems. I was testing it out today, getting ready for a big trip in a few weeks. I had it running and after about 15 minutes with the A/C on, it began sputtering and cut out. I shut the A/C off, started it back up, it seemed to run OK, then I turned the A/C on and again it began sputtering and cut out. This time I got out the book and found I had Error Code 36. I removed and checked the air filter, it was pretty clean. I removed and checked the spark plug, it looked good, I verified the gap (and scraped the surfaces a bit with the gap tool, just to clear off any residue). I put those back in and tried to clean out the Spark Arrestors, (but could not remove the clean out plugs). Then I fired it up to test again. Started right up, within a minute or so I put the A/C on to load it, and it seemed to run fine. Then after about 8 minutes, again it began sputtering and cut out. I checked and once again had Error Code 36. Any ideas what to try next? I have over half a tank of gas, and we are supposed to be able to run it with more than 1/4 tank.

I found it, it was under the metal cover at the bottom of the chimney flue, (that is why I could not see anything when I first looked in the rear access panel. I think I got it cleaned out good and when I tested it, it lit right away and I kept it lit for a couple minutes, just fine. Thanks for all the help.

Will try the burner cleanup. I guess from what you have said, it is probably under that metal cover w/screws, inside the rear panel access area. What do you recommend to clean it with, wipe with a cloth and spray with compressed air, or something else.

Hi Herman, That was one of the first things I did, after the first couple relight attempts, (on the highway) did not work. And yes, I have propane as the stove lit fine. The burner tube, propane jet and ignitor, (that I need to clean), would these be under the refrigerator or in the back access panel area. I already looked in the back, but could not make them out. However, there was at least 1 metal cover inside the back access panel area that could be removed, would they be under that?

Hmm, how do I do that? Is there a tester I need to get, just for LP gas? Thing is, my Tank Levels Indicator still says I have 2/3 of a tank of LP. Same as when I bought the RV in April. We only have been out over weekends and this was our 4th camping trip.