gwtriker

I have recently downsized from a class A RV to a small tag along rv. When winterizing the class A, I . sed the water heater bypass to keep from using a lot of antifreeze. The small RV does not have a bypass and there is nit enough clearance to add one. Would it be enough to just empty the heater and blow out the lines to keep them from freezing over the winter months?

I have an old EPCO ESSBC brake controller that I want to use, but I do not have the wiring information for it. Does anyone have this information they can share. There are 5 wires, red, black, green, white and blue. I'm sure the white ground and the black is 12 volt power, but not sure what the others connect to. Thanks for any information you may be able to supply.

Several people have suggested the Honda CRV, 2014 and older. I also suggest this vehicle, but caution you to check the owners manual carefully. The only models I have seen capable of flat towing are the all wheel drive versions. I have towed my 2003 many miles without a problem. No need to pull a fuse. I would also suggest having/ adding a battery charging line added to the trailer wire harness. No dead battery after a days travel.

I have a 1998 Fleetwood Bounder that has no power getting to the chassis systems. I have looked through the Fleetwood book and the Chevrolet chassis manuals and both say the fuses are located under the dash. I have looked under the dash on the drivers side and have not found anything. The passenger side of the dash is enclosed and there is no sign of an opening, "trap" door or other area that may hold the panel. I would greatly appreciate any inputs that would help me find the fuses. I am hoping some one with a Bounder of possibly other coach on the Chevrolet P-30 chassis knows the location,used. Thanks. Marty Link

I think I am going to have to stay with this coach for several more years. Old age and medical issues will be the determining factor. While I don't want to spend a lot of money on this coach, I do want it to be usable for a while yet. If the age and medical issues don't keep us from traveling. then we will probably up-grade, but not to a new unit.

I guess the increase in mileage is not my main concern. I would not like to unhook my CRV and have have someone use it to give me a boost on those tough grades. Yes, I do some work on my vehicles. With all the electroincs in the newer vehicles, it is much more difficult to do power train work. I have had to repair a wiring bundle under the coach where a neighbors dog chew through it to get to a cat in the front wheel well. I just got all the wiring spliced and need to cover it and secure it, then get the engine started again. I have had all the batteries disconnected since there were bare ends hanging around that could have shorted to ground. I do not need to see the coach in flames. I would be interested in the other tweaks you hinted at. Thanks.

I have a 1998 Fleetwood Bounder 34J on a Chevy P30 chassis with a 454 gas engine and pull a 2003 Honda CRV.. On our cross country trip there were several steep mountain pass that proved to be quite a challenge. On one, we dropped to about 15 to 20 MPH and had had shifted into first gear several time on the way to the down hill side. Several people have suggest I look into the Banks system to improve the pulling power, and gas mileage. One had put the Banks system on his similar size coach with the Ford V 20 engine and saw a very good improvement in both areas. I would like to here from anyone on this topic, especially pertaining to the Chevy 454. Thanks Marty Link

I have recently discovered I have a roof leak on my 1998 Fleetwood Bounder. There appears to be a section of the caulking in the bathroom vent area that has cracked. I am looking to make a temporary repair during our recent rainy weather while deciding on what I want to do for a "permanent repair. Somewhere I have seen an article or advertisement for a "tape" type caulking, but can not remember where, or find the information. I also would like to determine what type of roof in on the Bounder. Does anyone have information on how and where I can find the answer to both the above? Marty Link

Herman, you are making sense to me. In some respects, having lived in the electronic equipment word, I am used to BLACK wires being ground, not WHITE wire grounds in the electrical world. I would still like to find the correct matching pair and their origin on both ends.

Herman: Yes the wires are color coded. The two most in question are the same gauge, both are white. they come from the same bundle, continue to the same bundle on the other side of the "break". Bill: The wire bundle comes from the front (under "hood") area and the bundle on the other side continues along the frame rail to the rear of the coach with a number of branches along the way. I am in the process of dropping the clamps along the route to try to find a cleaner area to read the marking. Thanks to all for the inputs. I think I will invest in the tone generator system. It might be useful in other trouble shooting applications. Marty

I have a 1998 Fleetwood Bounder 34J that has a partially severed wire harness. Several months ago, a neighbors dog got loose. It chased a cat into the left front wheel well and up onto the top of the engine. To get to the cat, the wiring harness running by that area was chewed up, resulting in a number of wires being chewed up. I am trying to repair the wiring, but am having trouble identifying both ends of several wires that are the same color and gauge, The wires were marked during the assembly of the coach. I have found the marking on one side of the wires, but the other side of the severed wires has enough tape and other residue on it that the markings are not visible. I have gotten some information from Fleetwood, but it is not inclusive enough to show were thesE wires terminate on both ends. The wires in question have white insulation and appear to be 14 gauge, Does anyone have a suggestion that would aid me in my effort? Marty Link

I have a 1998 Fleetwood Bounder with a 454 Chevy engine. Belive it or not, a neighbors dog chased a cat into the engine compartment throught the wheel well. Most of the plug wires and all of the chassis wiring have been chewed to up, with about a 6 inch section of the chassis wiring totally missing. My biggest problem is I can not find the firing order or plug wiring from the distrubitor in the Chevy service manuals, The distributor has 4 positions for the plug wires in a line parallel to the ground. Can anyone tell me the proper order for the plug wires on both sides? And just for information, Animal Control will not let me shoot the dog OR the owner. Thanks Martin Link

I have a 1998 Fleetwwod Bounder with 5500 watt Onan generator. I am trying to trouble shoot the "not starting" problem. How do I get better access to the generator. It seems to be bolted in place, without any way of pulling out through the compartment door.I have seen/heard of other MH's that the generator could be pulled out on a "sliding" mount after removing the anchor bolts. Any suggestions/comments would be appreciated. Marty Link

We bought a 2003 CR-V for a toad two years ago, Everything else we looked at was either not tow-able flat, too heavy to pull behind our MH or too small. We did not want to have to use either a tow dolly or trailer and have to figure out where to store it at camp sites, Based on the fact the the new model will can not be towed flat, I guess as long as the body and mechanical parts are still in good shape, I will turn to replacing the engine or transmission or both with rebuilt products. Jasper engines and transmissions have been know for reliability and have a good warranty policy, if needed, We also used the Blue Ox base plate. Easy to hook up and unhook. The combination tows

Answers to the above: There is about 3/4 tank of gas. I have run the generator with a lot less. Generator has not been run for about 4 months, due to wife's medical problems. It has been a hectic time since. Oil level is good. Fuel pump does not seem to be on the generator, but I may be wrong. The fuel line goes from the filter (at the carburetor) down under the vehicle. I have not had a chance to crawl under and trace it yet. I will be trying to use an external fuel supply tank to see if it will run. At this point, I am trying to get information that will give me ideas of what to look for. I have read information an some sites about about the deteriorating fuel lines, but want to cover all other options before I even think about dropping the tank. Thanks for all the inputs. Marty

The generator in my 1998 Fleetwood Bounder 34J will not start. I am trying to troubleshoot the problem. I have several questions I hope someone can answer. First, Is the fuel pump for the generator in the gas tank? Next, Does the fuel pump start when you press the generator starter switch? Any suggestions on how to determine whether or not the fuel pump is actually picking up gas from the tank? Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks Marty

All the jumpers are in place, good grounds and terminals tight and there is only a single pair of 6 volt deep discharge batteries. In double checking, the wires from the inverter were not tight, so I tightened them up. This would mean that the batteries were possibly not getting a good charge from the inverter. It is plugged into the house again and I will check it again in a couple of hours. The loose wires at the converter do not seem to the problem since the terminal voltage at the house batteries was well above 12.5 volts before and after what ever tripped to shut off the 12 volt power in the RV. If I don't find an answer soon, it'll be another trip to the RV service facility early tomorrow morning.

As I mentioned earlier, the house batteries are new. Fluid levels are good and connections should be good. On additional attempts to resolve the problem, I can hear a relay or solinoid click when the lights and other things in the house go off. I have not located what ever it is that is clicking on an off.

We are trying to leave on an extended vacation in our Bounder 34J. We have a problem when we disconnect from the AC line. The 12 system kicks in, but quits working after about 10 to 15 minutes The generator will not turn over when this happens. Things start to work again when we re-connect, or start the engine. The house batteries are new and have been charging for three days while the coach was plugged to the line power and the terminal voltage is over 12.5 volts when everything quits working. Any suggestions?