gaylemarlowe

I did a search thru the old forum items, but did not turn up anything on this product. Anybody know anything about it and have an opinion to share? Don't know if it is like a wax or something that I should not use on our DP coach?

Yes, this helps a lot. It has always run at these gauge temps as long as we have had it. From start up, it takes about 25-30 minutes driving on the road to get to max gauge temp. As I stated, even climbing steep grades to mountain passes, it always runs at 205-210, and going down the other side, it still shows same temp. I just assumed the cooling system was really efficient and that Cat had (hopefully) designed it to run at this temp. But, I wanted to check with you experienced guys out there. Thanks for the quick replies.

I guess this is my week to get most all my questions answered. My 2005 Dutch Star with Cat C9 has always taken quite a while to get to operating temp. On a day like today, 65 deg, normal start, a few minutes to warm up then start down the road, it always takes about 25-30 minutes to get up to its max temp, which on the gauge is 210 deg. Has never gone over that even when climbing the big passes here in Colorado. I have seen quite a few of the guys write that theirs normally run around 185-190. Am I running too hot, or has Cat designed this C9 to run at that temp? Thanks

Okay, even though it is gonna hurt as icefixer66 says, I guess it is something I will have to do. Besides, I will like the fact that there will be no more fumes in the compartment making a mess. Thanks for the info, guys.

A few months ago I wrote that my Cat C9 intake heater would not work. A couple of you suggested the relay or the sensors as a potential problem, so that was where I started. Replaced the relay and all 3 sensors one at a time to see if that would cure the problem. No help. Scheduled service at my local Cat dealer and took it in at 8:00 on a Wed. They hooked the computer to it and within 5 minutes told me what the problem was. About 18 months ago I had them do the valve adjustment on the engine and at that time they told me they uploaded the new software that had come out from Cat. At the time I was grateful for the recent upload of software. Evidently there is a simple selection within the new software that the service tech must choose to either have the heater work or not have the heater work. Guess which one he chose during the software upload? YUP. Chose the NO WORK thingy. After selecting the right option, he told me to try the key and see if the heater worked. Surprise, it works. Now I have a complete set of goodies for my intake heater should they EVER go bad. Good thing is they did not charge me for the service to turn on the heater!!!! But, overall, my experience with this Cat dealer has been very good. Just thought I would let other Cat guys know of my experience.

One of my coach batteries' "lead acid type" is getting weak. I would like to go to all AGM, eventually. Can the two type batteries be used together? In other words, can I replace just one of the wet batteries with one AGM now and replace the rest as they get weak?

Wolfe, Does your advice also apply to my 2005 Cat 400hp in our 2005 Newmar?

Hee Hee. :) We may try to take you up on your offer. Here in Southeast Colorado in the edge of the mountains, we are way down on our snowpack and need the moisture. I'll put the word out to the local rail yards and see if we can help you with your snow removal problem. Gayle

Well, after checking my voltage going to the batteries while charging, it appears everything is okay as the charger is putting 13.2 volts to the batteries. Cmarq: Have never heard of the NCP-2, but sounds like something worth trying as all the other methods have not produced good results. Will get some and give it the 5-6 month trial like the other goodies I have used. Thanks all for the input.

2005 Newmar, with 2 chassis and 4 coach batteries. Batteries are in good condition, everything works well, charges as it should and no problems. However, after about 5-6 months I start getting that nasty looking gray fuzz on the cables. I clean it off with baking soda, clean the connections of cables and battery post, and reassemble using various methods that were supposed to work to prevent the fuzz. Felt washers under the cables, grease, plastic spray that is supposedly made to prevent the fuzz, and lastly, no coating or felt washers. The junk still comes back no matter which of the described methods I have tried. New vehicles seem to last for many, many years before getting this issue. So, what am I doing wrong, or what am I not doing??????? It really irks me to see this stuff on our otherwise pristine coach.

Rich, You were absolutely right! Pulled the fuse for the backup camera, let it set for 5 minutes, plugged the fuse in and turned the key on. Viola!!! Works just like it used to. Evidently there is a memory in there somewhere and it had to be cleared. Thanks again for the cheap fix. Checks in the mail. Gayle

Rich, Thanks for the quick response. I will try the items you mentioned and let you know what results I get. Also will get the info on the Voyager. Gayle

Here is a good one for you guys. 2005 Newmar Dutch Star 4320 with Voyager backup camera in dash. The backup camera has worked flawlessly until last week. Had to take the coach into the Cat dealer for an issue with intake heater cold start. During the process of fixing the engine issue, they had to turn the key on and off many times rapidly. When I picked up the coach I did not notice that the backup camera was ON going down the road. Before it only came on when you either used reverse or manually turned it on with the power button on the faceplate. Now, it is on all the time whenever the key is on and cannot be turned off. If I hit the power button, nothing happens, it stays on. What could have happened and is there a fix?

Tom & Herman, You guys may be correct on the material cost. Just for kicks I may price out the material and see how much it is. Had not thought of the colored Rhino lining spray. Good idea, I will check out also. Thanks for the comments!

Have been getting the usual nicks and scratches near the bottom of my cargo doors from road junk. Have touched them up a few times in the past but recently noticed a few coaches with the stainless steel armor sheets along the bottom of the cargo doors. Looks pretty nice. But, after getting an estimate, I was really shocked at the price. Are there multiple suppliers out there for this type product that could provide competitive pricing? Anybody ever try making their own from stainless sheet material?

I know the trend is to all or mostly electric, but how can you get rid of the propane and still run your furnace in cold weather? I assume it takes an AquaHot or something similar?

Just wanted to let you guys know that you were pretty much ALL correct. Got my wiring diagrams from Spartan (110 pages) and it shows the coach is wired from dash to tow plug in the back for electric brakes. However, under the dash, the wires (1 for electric brakes and 1 spare) are terminated and coiled up for customer use. Customer (me) must tie into wiring coming off air brake pedal circuit, run thru a standard trailer brake proportional controller, tie into wire going to rear tow plug, and PRESTO, electric brakes. Problem is to find the wiring for the air brake circuit that is under dash. Had hoped I could see it and access it from floor by steering column, but no luck. Looks like a good portion of dash is needed to come off to find it. So, Thursday it goes in for a very small contortionist to work on it. Thanks for the responses!

Rich, Just read your post again, and it looks as though you may think I am trying to get trailer brake lights. Not so. Trying to get trailer brakes to work off coach. Gayle

Hi Rich, 2005 Newmar Dutch Star 4320 on Spartan chassis. If you are correct and I already have the capability but need a relay or something, that would really be good news!

I am sure this has been asked many times before, but here goes. I am set up now to tow the Jeep and have the RVI brake system. Coach is a Newmar with air brakes, just got a 16 ft enclosed trailer with electric brakes to take our Harley and Polaris Ranger with us on short trips. I had wife push the brakes in the coach, but do not get a light on my tester when checking the post in the 7 pin plug on back of coach. I assume the coach is not wired for electric brakes. Question: Is the easiest way to set up trailer brakes a surge brake system? Or should I get something else? I would assume that converting the air brakes to electric signal is not an easy way to go? Suggestions and comments appreciated.

Was 48 deg yesterday morning when I checked it, so it should have been cold enough for it to come on. Am getting a wiring diagram from Spartan, should be in email today, but may not help.

Did the checks on the electrical that Wolfe suggested and did not get very far. No voltage to the heating element and no voltage to the relay when the key is turned on. Went thru my Spartan chassis manual looking for a wiring diagram, but no luck. I have exhausted my talents on this, so will take it to the Cat dealer here in town for a hopefully, easy fix. Will still let you know what was the culprit after it gets fixed.

Thanks Wolfe, I will do those checks tomorrow and let you know what I find.

Hi Guys, Have a 2005 Newmar Dutch Star with 400 Cat. During cold weather, starting without using the block heater takes forever. If I don't use the block heater it will crank quite rapidly, but won't start firing until it has cranked for 15-20 seconds.Then when it does start firing, it misses quite a bit and smokes a lot. After all cylinders are firing it quits smoking and seems okay. Cat manual that came with the coach says it has a heater in the intake and a light on the dash that lights up when it is cold enough. After looking at all the intake hardware, I don't see what could be a heater and I don't get any lights on the dash when I turn the key on and it is cold. Is it possible this one came without a heater? Or is it somewhere I don't see it and the dash light is there and not illuminating? I know you guys will educate me very quickly! Thanks in advance for your responses.

I read the advice on the forum for maintaining and cleaning the black and gray level indicators, but just recently had my fresh water level indicator go goofy. We had noticed a slight smell in the water coming from the taps and figured it was time to disinfect it again. Drained all but I think about 15-20 gallons from the system, added 1/4 cup bleach to it and refilled the tank. Used several gallons thru the taps and then drained the system again. Refilled system again and that's when the indicator started showing full all the time. I assume the bleach, when added, did something to the indicator. Have been waiting for it to fix itself after several drain downs and refills, but no luck. Advice from you experts? This is the same procedure we have been using.