huffypuff
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Posts posted by huffypuff
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7 hours ago, IanBullock said:Huffypuff, if I have the ARP module installed can I still run it on 120 AC and LP gas as needed?
You can if you want to use 120v but the element can burns out with a bang and put a hole in the burner then trip the breaker because of the short. At that point the propane can turn on and set the leaking gasses on fire. I feel more safe using propane. It's not just Norcold that can do this.
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53 minutes ago, jleamont said:How is yours running down the road? Any secrets to share or lessons learned to help the OP? With your technical background, a rundown on the fridge workings from ARP and owning the same model might be huge on this post.
Ours went warm on the road also and I never got to the bottom of it.
The OP mechanic told him wrong to run on A/C only. Having to run your generator all the time while driving has to be more expensive than propane. I disconnect 120v power to make the 12v board to think no shore power so it switches to propane. Otherwise when on 120v If the fridge can overheats and crack the boiler tubes, it will leak and can switch over to propane automatically lighting up the leaking gas. The ARP unit is a controller and turns off if the burner temperature gets too high. Much lower than the recall unit. If the burner temperature gets to high the fridge unit will be overloaded and not cool well. By keeping the burner temperature at a good operating temperature the unit it works better. So the ARP unit shuts off at high temperature to allow gas to return to the burner. Then it turns the unit back on to keep the gases circulating. Running too hot cause it not to cool good. ARP also sell fans for inside and outside the fridge to make it perform better and works with their controller. The recall box is junk. Our fridge works fine on the road and one time we had both freezer on top packed solid with fish from Alaska and all was still frozen solid when we got home a week later. This was driving in hot weather.
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13 hours ago, RayIN said:Back on topic; I read your comments to say the only cooling issue is when traveling, is this correct? Check the drain tube from the refrigerator into the square cup beside the LP burner box, at least it is supposed to be in the evaporator cup. There is a small plug in the end of the tube with tiny holes it it. This is to drain condensate from the frig of course, and it prevents cool air from being sucked out of the frig by the air while traveling. The plug in the end is to prevent bugs from crawling up the hose while reducing the odds of air transfer.
I have ran my Norcold 1200LRIM on LP every time I drive the MH. Now to the chance of fire, buy a Fridge Defend/ARP unit, its purpose is to keep boiler temperature well below the point where the system is over-pressurized and ruptures, which in many cases results in the solution catching fire when it exits the cooling unit. It will even temporarily shut off the heat source when you are parked on a steep grade, which caused boiler temperature to quickly rise to the danger point. When the temperature falls back into the safe zone the ARP unit returns power to the frig.
Some folks are hesitant to use LP while on the road, and I understand their caution. The majority of MH fires are in diesel pushers, the majority of DP fires are in the engine compartment. Some are switching to residential refrigerators, this lists the top 5 household appliance fires, refrigerator fires are #4: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2012/03/appliance-fires-is-your-home-safe/index.htm
Yes this OP turned into bash Norcold and sell their favorite fridge. I met the maker of the ARP unit and his wife at Quartzsite and was explained the working of an RV fridge. The 120 v elements can cause an overheat and crack the burner tube. I installed the ARP unit about 4 years ago and disconnect the 120 v power. Don't have any problem with temperature in fridge or freezer. It's on propane all the time when using the rv and I drive with it on with no problem.
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12 hours ago, desertdeals69 said:I always hook the ground the other battery. Supposed to balance it better.
Not necessary true as this is the end of the bank. Either way works fine. Or you can hook the positive to the other battery, the other end of the banks.
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I was wondering why my coach had so many skylights and what to do if one gets broken. Thanks
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If batteries not charging up like it should, make sure your temperature sensor is good. I had a bad one and the charger cut back cause a shorted temperature sensor had the charger thinking the batteries were overheated.
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More likely the headlamp will have a TYC number on it and with that you can get a replacement.
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Read your owners manual. Each manufactures slideouts operate different. Mine is supposed to have full air suspension and the engine not running. It can be plugged into shore power or running generator to give it more ump.
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I don't understand how a 12 volt circuit would trip a 120 circuit?
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12 hours ago, DickandLois said:Ray there is a known leak in the leveling jack hydraulics that needs to be repaired. The thinking on my end is the possibility of the level sensor is not closing and is wired into the auto air up system when the jacks are up.
Rich.
Beyond the the valves to near the transmission it may be a pressure leak.
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What is the ECM suppose to improve?
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3 hours ago, richard5933 said:The Wingman is a rotating antenna, correct? If so, what keeps it from leaking into the coach?
If the rain was coming down hard enough with the wind in the right direction a little water can get in. Not really enough to bother us.
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Go through all settings on control panel and check battery temperature. I had a low charge from my inverter and found temperature sensor was bad. It was telling the charger that the temperature was too high so the charge rate cut way back discharging the batteries.
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23 hours ago, rossboyer said:I didn’t provide a link, just the address as was shown in their ad.
OK the address is .net instead of .com. If you copy and paste the address, it becomes a link that takes you to wrong place.
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2 hours ago, rossboyer said:The ads in the back of Family RVing has: Shadepro.com, 800-328-5100.
You need to change your link to https://www.shadepro.net/ same phone number
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Would you go to a steakhouse and bring your own steak, expect a refund if you don't think they didn't cook it to your taste? Why do people expect to do the same to a repair shop?
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3 hours ago, traveler44 said:hi, new here. the controller on my jacks went south. Changed it but when I try to lower jacks I here pump operating but jacks do not come down. any suggestions? also where is pump and reservoir on my coach. nothing in manual!
Check fluid level. If there no fluid jacks will not move. You have to locate motor with pump and check the reservoir attached to it.
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1 hour ago, templeandgary said:Thanks Manholt. I did a little more research and found this in my owners manual. Looks like anytime the trans is in neutral and the parking brake is not applied there will be a buzzer and anytime the vehicle is in drive and the parking brake is still applied there will be a buzzer. Looks like I will just have to get used to it between changing from park to drive.
Somehow I think it might be mandated by the government on newer coaches like on cars.
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33 minutes ago, manholt said:Worst scenario I ever have seen...my buddy was pulling his new Terry, 28 foot, 5'er over the Old Galveston Causeway bridge, when the pin came out and before I could hit my Air horn, the trailer hit the Bridge railing, flipped and landed in the Intracoastal water way...shut down the I-45 Freeway for about 8 hours! No damage to truck..
The pin came out, broke or what? Mechanical failure I would think at that point.
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1 hour ago, DickandLois said:The Leveling System is Power gear hydraulic and with the jacks up (Like Joe mentioned all jacks fully retracted). There is a hydraulic tank, motor and valve set up . The tank has a float that sets off the alarm when the level drops below a set point. The Fluid is Dextron 4,if it has not been changed. The good news is there is a good substitute synthetic available.
Rich.
The power gear panel would flash and state jacks down if jacks are down or fluid is low. It will also go into auto retract.
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What jleamont says, I had to replace mine for same reason.
FMCA Membership Renewal
in Membership/Benefits
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Thanks for reminding me to renew. The credit card on file was expired and I couldn't delete it. I tried adding the new card and the bottom line ask for company name and it added to the non business card. I wanted to go back to edit it and or delete both and start over and no dice. They need credit card management on the membership site.