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huffypuff

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Posts posted by huffypuff


  1. The magnic is the method to reset the Circuit. However if the board will not reset, (reset means the red light goes out), You can bypass the board by disconect the Black wire from the small circuit board and put it in place of the Blue wire coming from the smal board going to the main circuit board. This is only a temporary fix and you should get the unit to a dealer ASAP/

    Herman

    When I didn't know the reset method and was in Alaska last summer I bypass the recall box by installing a mini blade fuse from in and out wires at the box. I didn't know if the fridge would start or blow up but I tried it and it worked. The only reason I knew about the recall then is that the dealer performed it before I left for Alaska. That was the first time it went out from a power wash.


  2. Hi Herman, are you referring to the "black box with red light" or the actual control board? I'm familiar with restoring the black box with a magnet but if you know about a board fix I would be interested in that info.

    Thanks,

    Yes, after the recalls everyone should carry a strong magnet in their tool box to reset the recall box. I have to reset mine after power wash as it don't like the mist for some reason. I don't spray directed at the fridge access panel.


  3. I like the reviews of Pettit Easypoxy marine paint. I also think that sandstone is a very close match to the color I need. I will grab the access panel from the fridge and visit West Marine in Everett, WA first chance I get. It's about 45 miles from me so may be awhile before I go. I want to get this done while the weather is good.


  4. Thanks for the replies. I don't think I will go with white as I don't think I can get the tape straight enough across the front and back. Great idea about the fridge side access panel as it has some of the right color on it and not as big as the a/c or fridge roof cover. I think I want to stick with brush or roll on and won't feel bad if I have to do again in five years. I need to find a place to mix oil base paint the right color. Will Lowes or Home Depot do it?


  5. I have a 8 bag system with height rods connected to valves on my 06 HR. I don't know if the same as yours but I believe the height adjustment is in my owners manual. If you have a rod connected to a valve that lets air in and out it may be similar. If so maybe I can scan and email it to you.


  6. I had the same problem with a 93 Southwind I used to have. What manufactures do is use headlights out of a car or light truck and mount them much higher than originally designed. What I used to solve my problem is use the Hella driving lights mounted under the bumper. Since I got rid of the Southwind I used the build in driving lights on my HR that is also mounted lower.


  7. I'm doing a late spring cleaning starting with the roof from the tree pollen on the roof and running down the sides. When I wash the roof today I noticed that clear coat is peeling all around the roof where it is painted. The center part of the roof appears to be white aluminum and is ok, so it's just the last 6 inches on both sides and over the front and rear caps.

    What I'm thinking of doing is getting a good oil-based enamel paint like Rustoleum and color match if I take one of the painted a/c or fridge covers to the paint store. Then sand and paint all affected areas. This will be a roll or brush on as it's not going to be seen much at ground level. Does anyone have better do-it-yourself solutions?


  8. I got the replacement echo charger this afternoon and replaced it tonight. I moved it to the inverter compartment by drilling a 1 inch hole through both compartment walls. One of original wire was short but the new wire for the chassis battery is longer so I swapped it out at the inline fuse. I protected the wires going through the walls with rubber grommets and sealed the inverter compartment with ribbon sealer.

    I have 13.5 volts going to the house batteries and 13.1 volts going to the chassis batteries so I think it's good. I wonder why Monaco didn't put this in a dryer location in the first place?

    This is a good upgrade for those that the chassis batteries don't charge when on shore power. There is only three wires to hook it up and easy instruction.


  9. The battery and inverter compartments is right next to each other with the echo charge on the wall next to the inverter compartment. There is less than a one inch space between the compartments with the battery wall metal and the wall near the inverter plastic fiber tub material. I can drill a one inch hole through the two walls and used grommets on the edges to prevent shorts. I should have enough wires to pull through to the dry inverter compartment and caulk to seal the holes.

    That should put the echo charge in a cooler, clean, dry environment. The inverter compartment has a inlet vent that I added a filter to it such as used on a window A/C and a filtered exhaust fan that automatically kicks on if temperature gets high. I wanted to post pictures but it ask me for a url not the file.


  10. Recently went to check the condition of the batteries and found the starting batteries almost dead. I found that there is a digital echo charger made by Xantrex that quit working. Unfortunately if it get a little damp it will fail and is not repairable. It supposed to have a solid green LED light lit when charging, flashing means a fault exists and no LED means it is fried. I have another one coming and it will be here Friday.

    I like to spray the batteries once a year with cleaner and hose off then coat the terminals with sealer so I may of caused it to a certain extent. Other cause is the batteries are in a area where salt spray can get to it and corrode it. I'm going to see if I can relocate it near the inverter where it stays dryer and has a fan and filters to keep it clean and cooler. I will keep you posted what I do.

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