huffypuff
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Posts posted by huffypuff
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Looking at the picture of your RV I know that the frame can handle 5,000 lbs or more towing. But with the added weight of the motorhome that reduces what the drivetrain and brakes can handle to a level as flat towing a small car. That may be the reason for the whimpy hitch. It would be best to weigh your motorhome to get the gross vehicle weight fully loaded as you would travel then look up the Gross Combined allowable vehicle weight and subtract the difference. That would be the amount of weight you can tow.
My previous 34' 5.9L dp couldn't tow more than 4,000 lbs because it would exceeded the combine weight of drivetrain and brakes. I wouldn't dare exceed it because I know I would be out of luck if there was an emergency stop or being able to handle a steep grade.
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I believe the switch is internal of the icemaker that comes on as the motor rotates the fingers to remove the ice. I try to recall how the icemaker works.
First the icemaker must get cold enough to trip a thermostat to run a motor and turn on the heating element to aid in the removal of the ice.
The motor turns a plastic gear that is attached to fingers to move the ice and cam to turn on a microswitch.
The microswitch supplies power to the water valve as the cycle nears the end as the heating element also warmed the thermostat to turn off.
There is a operational test you can do in the link Rich supplied will guide you to the fix.
I think an RV parts place would only get you a replacement icemaker but you can try an appliance parts store for parts.
This icemaker looks like a common one used for years in households refrigerators.
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RJ from my experience, when a belt tensioner make noise whether the spring or bearing, it is best to replace it. If the spring moves enough to make noise that means the spring has weakening. What can happen down the road is increase belt wear and possibility of the belt getting thrown off when least expected.
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Sorry if it appeared if I attacked anyone, but I also got an nasty email from same person. Otherwise I would have left the thread alone. I also must note that this thread went a different way than the original posted intended.
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I only have 45 years of experience as a mechanic and 30 of them with fleet so I know what I talk about. I was being kind when I said maintenance of a diesel was about the same as a gasser. Maintenance of a diesel is less than a a gasser. When I worked at fleet we did oil changes on fleet gasser twice as much as diesel. The fuel and air filters on gassers 15,000 miles, 30,000 miles on diesel. The EPA is the reason that oil change is extended to 7500 miles. There is so many engine going bad that dealers such as GM change the oil free for the customers for the first 50,000 miles. They have a certain certified oil that must be used or warranty is void. When working at fleet the gassers were best to get rid of just over 100,000 miles, the diesel last over twice the mileages.
I talked to owners with v-10 fords and best they get is 6 mpg in a 28 footer, ouch!
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My Norcold has 2 plugs, one for the icemaker and another for the refrigerator heating element. They are plugged into separate outlets as they are fused separately.
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If you have not watched the move RV with Robin Williams, do. Then you might consider writing a screen play based on your misadventures, Perhaps they are ready for the sequel.
I looked it up on Netflix and it's not up for streaming so out of luck unless rental which I don't do.
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I got the two access hatches yesterday and I can't believe the difference with old and new being the same part number. Seems like whoever installed these cut out the bottom almost two inches to make inserting hoses and cords easier. Also they did't use any type of seal on the flange. Well I will be installing the new ones with butyl tape seal around the flange and leaving the bottom intact.
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The inverter charger has breakers also to check for such as an popped out 10/15 amp buttons.
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When you have the belt off, briefly start the engine and see if the noise goes away. That means cold engine and run no more than a few minutes. If the noise goes away then it is either a pulley bearing or belt. If you still have noise then it's something else.
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Brett that is a nice link you posted there and you are right, I should known and check the filters even though the dealer said the coach was turn key. I didn't think that I had any reason to look behind the a/c condenser but I did when the leveling system gave problems. I did change the air filter and oil and filter after the Alaskan tour because going through the Yukon road construction was a filthy mess. It's due for another oil change after my holiday tour.
Ernie I never had any engine performance problem but when I started the engine after changing both fuel filters it had to burp. I tried bleeding the filters by cycling the key several times and using a hand pump with little success. Finally I removed both filters and filled them as I didn't want to take a chance of getting the engine air bound. I won't know if the high mileage filters are clogging but I'm sure they are beyond their service requirement.
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When I brought my coach at 19,000 miles I told the dealer to replace all the filters. When I had a breakdown with the jacks I had to open the side a/c condenser and swing it out for access to the hydraulic pump. Also in there I found two filters that weren't changed as in still original from the factory.
I had since in the 14 months I owned this coach put an additional 19,000 miles on it. Can you imagine my horror knowing there is 38,000 miles on the primary fuel/water separator and the air brakes/air bag suspension air dryer?
Needless to say I changed both filters today, got them cheaper through O'Reilly's and order the replacement dryer filter. Lesson learned, never trust a dealer to watch your back. I'm am lucky that these filters didn't give me any trouble.
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One: Ray Huffman
Two: U.S. Army
Three: 3 years, 1970 - 1973
Four: SP5 highest rank
Five: Helicopter repairman
Six: Ft Rucker, AL, Vietnam, Chi Lia, Dang Na, Ft Campbell, KY, 101 Airborne -
How about using a child gate behind the front seats to keep the pet away from the front? They make them out of plastic now so it wont scratch anything.
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I got 9.5 with my DP 8.3L ISC towing my Jeep Liberty diesel which adds 4500 lbs to 33000 loaded weight of the MH. The secret is to cruise about 1500 rpm just above max toque band so your not lugging it. Above 1500 rpm you will just waste fuel. Oil change on diesel could go as much as 15,000 miles, gasser 3000 miles so that cancel out oil changing more. Diesel gets 30 percent better mileage than gasser and if the gasser uses premium fuel cost more than diesel. You can get a Pilot or Flying J card for discount on diesel. Maintenance on diesel pusher fuel and air filters every 20,000 miles no different than gasser. Change spark plugs on a Ford V-10 and you think you are being charged for an overhaul. No need to ask me how I know.
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I would tilt the fuse panel and see if it lost the connection going out from it since you have no power at the switch.
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I took to glass shop for the windshield to be resealed on Friday. I pointed out the streak mark on the inside and where it came from but the mechanic couldn't find out why it leaked. He resealed across the top of the area of the leak so I have to hope for the best.
I ordered 2 access hatches from etrailer for less than $10 each that looks a little better designed.
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The only time I have trouble with the mod is when the coach is hit with a pressure washer. I take a strong magnet on a stick to reset the mod box.
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My same system front jack did the same thing as yours about the 6th of this month.
Had to loosen the line and jack and crowbar back up. I was told by emergency service it needs jack replacement.
I have a service plan that covers it except for $200 and shipping of part.
Sounds like you have same problem.
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The access hatch on mine is loose and the bottom is wide open with no protection of water getting in. That outlet is about the same height as yours but has no weather cover that I would like to look in to. Time to replace them with better design. The seal is much as you said the windshield shifted but at least the seal didn't come loose from the fiberglass. Not a bad leak as it just ran a bead of water inside the windshield only when driving in heavy rain. I had no problem with it before the windshield replacement and insurance paid for it. Now if I have to replace the rubber seal down the road I guess that expense will be on me.
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Yes Monacoman38 that type of door stop will have a problem if the center pivot pin gets too loose. The only thing you can do is remove it and rap that pin a few times with a hammer on a vise and hope it tighten up. Then it shouldn't overextend the stop. Good luck.
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I sprayed all outside electrical outlets with Sea Foam Deep Creep. Includes front right side compartment tv/bbq, left side ice maker, refrigerator AC heating element and vacuum cleaner. Problem solved!
Rich, there are a couple possible areas of concern. There is a round flip access hatch on the floor in the compartment that flips up for cords to go through and a U shaped slide for the cord so the larger round part can be put down. I have another one of those in the plumbing compartment for the water hose. Otherwise I have screw down caps for the 50 amp shore line and sewage dump hose. The screw type are not the problem but the flip up one are if you are traveling and get caught in a storm. They have either flipped up or u shape slid back and need to be replaced with better design. This look a little better than what I have but not by much. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/electrical-cable-hatch-white/66682
I talked to the glass shop today and have an appointment for Friday 9 am to reseal the windshield. The windshield pops into rubber and it is there that it leaks at upper right corner. The glass shop says that the windshield settles or slides down when first driven for such a big one piece assembly. Resealing the top should take care of it and I'm able to wait for it.
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Expect lots of snow there this time of year, less snow after May.
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I hope to set up a windshield reseal as I wait. The glass shop is 30 minutes away. The electrical outlet is inside the storage area but has a flip up access for a cord as well as cable for tv. Somehow the back wall and that outlet is damp and I have to blame the flip up access but have to verified by unloading some stuff. I hope that is the only problem with it.
Pacbrake PRXB
in Engines
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I always felt the exhaust brake was weaker than I would expect it to be on my coach. I would exchanged it but I worry about my extended service plan if not factory installed unit.