deenad
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Posts posted by deenad
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Peak torque on the ISC is 1400 rpm, on the ISL's it's 1300.
We have the Banks kit on our ISC 350 and have 1200 ft lbs from 1400 to 1700 rpm, I still try to run around 1600 rpm even so. I also find that, with the much wider torque band I run in "economy" mode most of the time.
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On another forum a former filter rep (Gary Spires) said you should take a some nylon netting and tie it directly over the turbo intake, that will match what a K&N does!
The reason a K&N flows more is because it filters less, in fact they let more than twice as much dust in as the standard filter.
We have the Banks kit on our ISC, with the standard EcoLite filter I'm getting 15" of restriction with a new filter. To reduce the restriction I'm going to have to upsize my entire intake tract. Not too expensive if I order the new 7" connectors and tubing off the Internet. The last couple trips out I'm seeing 22" on the filter minder so it's getting time to change things.
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Well, I'm late to the party but I did it in Sept 2010. Got the wheels from a truck wrecking yard, had them polished by a wheel polishing outfit and then had new tires put on. One of the reasons for going to new rims was going to 305/70 tires from 275/70's on the front to match the axle capacity of 14,600#'s. They do look much better but they also take more care since I didn't get the Durabrite finish.
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Brett is right with the generator output. A "true" 50 amp RV circuit has 12,000 watts on two legs (50 amps X 120 volts x 2) = 12,000 watts.
A 30 amp circtuit is 3,600 watts (30 amps X 120 volts) = 3,600. Since it's one leg than that's all there is.
That's the reason 50 amp circuits can power so much more.
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With regard to the corrosion in the picture, I have tried various treatments to prevent the buildup. About a year ago I discovered a couple of products made by CRC. One is a terminal cleaner and the other is a spray coating which dries and had a red tint to it. Unlike grease which attracts dirt buildup, my terminals and cables are clean for over a year.
I just replaced my starting batteries Friday before last and my house batteries this weekend. They were the oem's and were 9½ years old. The starting batteries were totally dead (2 hrs on a 60 amp charger) and I still couldn't start the engine. While getting them out I looked closely at the Interstate U-2200's and found they were bulging. Still seemed to work OK but we're headed out and didn't want to stranded somewhere.
I bought the CRC cleaner and spray a couple months ago because they were on sale. I used them both.
BTW, adding plain old mineral oil to each cell will almost totally eliminate the corrosion. I did it to the house batteries in 2004 and have almost no corrosion in the bay.
I used 4 oz per cell on the U-2200's.
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I bought a couple brackets from an advertiser (Kiley Molds as I remember). They came with double sided tape, put them on in 2002 and they're still there. On the back I used the rubber lined hose brackets used in cars. Used stainless nuts, bolts and lockwashers and mounted them to the ladder. I also mounted our Good Sam Charter Lifetime (shhh..don't tell anyone) oval the same way.
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Another point about dual pane windows. They will help a little with heat loss in the winter, but will do nothing to inhibit heat transmittance from the sun in the summer. What makes the most difference in the summer are tinted windows, insulated drapes and window awnings.
The insulation properties work both ways, keeps heat in and heat out. The only way it would be different is if they were coated to reflect sunlight, then they would keep heat out better than holding it in.
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This is our second DSDP, both have had heat pumps and dual pane windows. Never had a problem with either other than in colder weather the heat pumps don't work so we have to use other sources (some as the sticki house).
Won't have an RV without both of them.
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As you probably know there was a procedure that had to be followed to tow Honda's 4 down.
If it wasn't followed part of the transmission could be left in reverse and that could cause damage.
In 2006 as I recall Honda no longer allowed 4 down towing of most of their models.
The speculation is that enough people did not follow the procedure and there were so many resultant warranty claims that Honda decided to no longer allow it. I haven't seen that confirmed however and they still allow some models to be towed - CR-V,CR-V 4WD, and the Fit.
Actually it was in 2005 and we ran into it with our 2005 Ody. Honda paid us for the towing gear we had installed and we bought a dolly. Now figuring that there are owners towing their '05 Ody's so we are too. Only towed it a few hundred miles so far but no problems yet. Don't forget to release the parking brake though!!
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We joined sometime back using my parents FMCA number. We found that the rallies are great and attended a few. Three years ago my step daughter died, one week after my wife applied for retirement from her company. No choice but to take the grandkids into our home. $6,000 in legal fees later we got legal guardianship. Since then we've been to several FMCA rallies and the kids had a great time.
We don't belong to any chapters though. We did join one Good Sam chapter but they held their rallies during the week so we gave up on them. I did try contacting a local FMCA chapter a few months ago but never heard back from anyone.
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After I installed the Banks kit I found that my gauge reads 15 even with a new filter. The max boost used to be 24-25 psi, now its 34-35 so more air needed. Wish there was an easy/cheap way to increase the filter and line size but the CAC is expensive to change.
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Are they still stopping vehicles that have commercial signs on them? At one time they were checking for LLC registration and hitting people with fines for not having commercial fuel tags.
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When we retire our budget will be about $6,000 a month without touching savings or IRA's, we hope that's enough. Actually I retired in '98 but went back to work till my wife can retire. Then my step daughter died and we inherited three cats and two grandkids, now 11 and 19. So that delayed our plans even more!
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The police must have reasonable suspicion to stop you. That means they reasonably think you have violated the law in some way. Too arrest you or cite you they must have probable cause to believe that you have violated the law.
The details of searching are far too complex to fully understand here. Police can search if you give them permission to do so or if they have a warrant. They may also search if they see something illegal. (ie...you are stopped for a traffic violation and the officer sees a hand grenade sitting between the seats. The officer could then justify a further search.) The police can search in an exigent circumstance. ie...they hear a woman screaming "STOP STABBING ME" from inside an rv. The officers would have the right to force entry into the rv.
The rules on an rv are sometimes the same as a stick built and sometimes not. Sometimes it is just a motor vehicle. Lawyers will argue those points till doomsday.
Crossing a border is a whole different animal. Federal Agents may search with no reason other than you are crossing the border. The courts have ruled that in crossing the border you give consent to the search. Again, lawyers may argue the point on and on...but...
Before believing some video posted on the 'net look deeper into it. Not to say that some things are one sided and lacking in detail...but...
If you think about it...how many times have YOU been stopped by the police and had anything more than a traffic citation issued? The world is full of "I heard about this from ...." incidents. I would doubt that many folks who frequent these forums have had more contact than that with cops.
In WA state they can search your vehicle without any cause during a traffic stop. They say it's for the "safety of the LEO", and yes it did go to the State Supreme Court and was upheld.
Also, your RV is treated just like any other motor vehicle UNLESS you are in a campground and hooked up to utilities, then it's your home and requires a search warrant.
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It doesn't take a professional with special tools to change oil or do other simple maintenance, and to validate that point, the shop person doing the job may not even be a certified RV technician.
And it certainly doesn't take a "certified RV technician" to do an oil change or most other work on an RV although I'd feel better if I was paying if they were.
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Hi John H.,
As a followup on Brett's previous post, my ISC is persnickety on the amount of oil in the crankcase. When the dipstick is at the bottom of the cross hatch marks, I leave it there. Consider letting the oil level settle to a reading it stabilizes at. For me, as long at the oil level is at the bottom of the cross hatch marks, the ISC runs fine. And yes I have the correct dip stick. When I change the oil, this means I add 21 qts, not the 24 qts per spec. Originally I put in 24 qts. The dip stick reading was at the full mark. The ISC would burn out the oil down to the add mark (bottom of the cross hatch marks) in 1K miles. Adding oil did no good. Now I leave it where the engine burns no oil between it's annual oil changes. I average 12K+ miles per year.
That's almost the exact same thing I do with our ISC in a Dutch Star. If I leave the oil any higher than about half way between the low and high marks it'll blow oil out. Leave it slightly low and no problem.
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My recommendation is use the best oil and best oil filters that money can buy and change it frequently.
Phil Barr - Michigan
Oil and filters are CHEAP compared to a rebuild!! And cheaper yet if you do the work yourself like I do.
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When my Norcold cooling unit eventually leaks and/or dies, I'll get a new (not rebuilt) totally redesigned Amish unit for our coach for $1K, and keep our existing refer.
We have a Dometic, it died after about 8½ years. Have the new Amish built cooling unit sitting in the front room of the stick house now. Cost was $625 plus $25 shipping for our 1062 unit.
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Hi Harold,
Welcome to the FMCA forum. I have had this product since 07. It works as advertised. I would make the same purchase again. We do not use it often, but where we have used it it works just fine.
Got ours about 2004 or so. We don't use it much either but when we do it does the job.
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Had the same problem, called Fantastic Vent and they sent new gaskets and a packet of 303. I replaced the gaskets and now just spray or wipe a little 303 on the gaskets once a year. Problem solved at almost no expense.
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In our Dutch Star the refer is in the slide so no roof vent. Newmar did add a fan as per Dometic requirements. I never noticed any difference in temps between propane and electric. I did notice when the unit quit and ruined the food inside!! I had the infamous ammonia leak so I ordered a new Amish built cooling unit that arrived last week. Now to install it!!
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My parents had one in their 1957 KenCraft travel trailer. It was a very special order and worked very well with the exception of some metric two part screws that would break (made to do that) if the unit froze. It was impossible to find replacements.
Personally, if I were ordering a new unit I would order one if offered although our Dutch Star has the motor aid option so we have hot water in transit. Wish we could have gotten the Hydo-Hot though!
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We have seven cats, all of which we take with us. Each has their own place to lay or hide when in motion. One likes the back of the couch, two like under the chair, another likes back in a cubbyhole by the bed, one likes on the floor between us, and once in a while one will want up in my wife's lap. (Wife is deceased as of Aug. 21st, 2016) Once we stop they show up, although one starts "yelling" at me to get the kitty Kondo's out so she can go out.
The oldest is 16 and the youngest is less than a year but we haven't taken him out to the MH.
Deen
F47302S
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Here's Michelins "official" stance on cracking. This is from the Michelin RV Tire Guide.
"If the cracks are less than 1/32" deep the tire is fine to run. Between 1/32" and 2/32" the tire is suspect and should be examined by your Michelin dealer. If the cracks are any deeper than 2/32" (1/16") the tire should be replace immediately"
MPG - Winnebago Vectra 400 Cummins
in Engines
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That's one change I'd like to make to our MH. What did it cost?