toneyamurphy

Talked to Manchester Tank and Equip.and was told it didn't make any difference how the two wires were connected. I connected the wires from the new sending unit to the existing coach wires after I isolated the coach elec. All is well. Appreciate the help. Toney, F409212

I think I'll do that first thing in the morning. I already have their phone number. Thanks for responding. Toney Talked to Manchester Tank and Equip.and was told it didn't make any difference how the two wires were connected. I connected the wires from the new sending unit to the existing coach wires after I isolated the coach elec. All is well. Appreciate the help. Toney, F409212 .

I have a 2016 HR with a broken propane tank quantity sending unit. All four of the 'fingers' on the factory installed electrical sending unit are broke off. This makes the sending unit inoperable. I was able to purchase a replacement sending unit that has the two connecting wires on the unit.That is the problem. How do I tell which connecting wire is the hot wire and which is the neutral wire. Or does it make any difference? I know I can try to match my new sending unit's wires to the old sending unit wires by using the wire location. I then will have to match the new wires to the feed wires using the same method. Does this sound reasonable. Neither the old sending unit or the new sending unit or the feed wires are marked telling which wire is pos. or neutral. Any help would be welcomed. Toney==F409212

Makes sense, I'll do just that. Thanks, Toney

Well, as it warmed up I went back "under the hood" again and it appears the fan/baffle box can be assessed from there. I found no way to cut the hot water, radiator mixture, from under there. I did check the only fuse powering the fresh air/heater system and I got continuity through all three fuses that were on the same "block". So no fuses were blowned. By this time the cold was getting too much for me so I quit and went to Loews for supplies. It is suppose to warm up to 55 in next couple of days then back down to single digits for three days. Thanks All for your help and input, Toney, 409212

Administrator, This topic is resolved and I would like to close it out . Could you help me on this. Thanks toneyamurphy 409212

I talked to the factory rep. yesterday and he said yes indeed they were having problems such as this and found the fan box or plenum box was not sealing properly. Their solution was to run duct tape around edges of this housing box. I don't know if this will work or not but it is worth a try. It sounds like a fast solution to a problem that if this is the cause will raise it ugly head when the tape starts peeling. It's 17 degrees out so will have to wait a day or two for warmer weather. I did find out all or most all the mechanical portion is "ender the hood" but it is hard to get to due to the massive amount of wires, tubes, hyd lines, etc.

This may be my best solution for the short run. Thank's greenbarn1 for your response. Could you tell me the Model of coach you used this solution on?

I may have to do the same but am wondering about defrosting when I need it. Did you mean a 5/8inch shut off valve in line on the hot water line between the heater coil and the electrical shut off valve? That sound like a good idea but I have already checked with Lowes and they do not carry these. Thank you very much for responding. Toney,

Could not find his number today, Monday, but will be working on it Tuesday. Thanks, Toney

I agree with you (they don't make it easy ). Thanks for responding.

No, it was give me your money here are the keys now get lost, kid. LOL. In reality we spent the better part of three days going in/under/over/around the MH. A few minor problems were addressed and all questions were answered. This problem came up and was fixed with the mechanic going under the hood and all was well for about 2 years. As soon as I'm able I am going under the nose area again following your suggestion as written above. I just hope my problem has a simple solution and I'm not making a mountain out of a ant hill. Later, Toney

First of all "Thank you for your service to this country of ours". I too am retired Air Force with 38 years service mostly as a Flight Engineer on the C-130 bird. You would think I could just jump into the middle of this and trouble shoot, find the problem fix it and be done with it. But getting under that dash has me baffled. No pun intended. It turned bitter cold last night so I'm stuck to researching right now. This thing is more complicated than my C-130 , at times. Thanks Again, Toney 409212

Thanks for responding. Just one question. Did you have to pull the dash panels to get to the leaking hose? On the '13 I don't know where or how to start pulling. I do get good hot air from the floor, dash and windshield defogging vents. Just no cool air when selected. It is leading me toward a loose or disconnected vacuum hose under the dash, I'm going to talk to the factory rep. tomorrow a.m. asking for a schematic and any input they may have. Your response is inline with the others i'v received and I think all are correct. , Toney F409212

I have his number in my service file and will try to reach him Monday. Thanks for responding. Toney

I got my Raid and am ready to go to war.

Rich and Dave, When we bought the coach I could only get hot air. The seller/dealer had his mechanic to go into the nose area and fixed the problem. We had good cold air after that and was able to go to hot and back to cool with no problem. Now after two+ years it has raised it's ugly head again and I'm stuck on hot. After I talk to the factory rep tomorrow (asking for diagram) I'll crawl through the nose area to see if I missed anything. I'll be looking for loose or corroded wires and anything else that may be causing the problem. I don't know how to get to the mixing box or the actuators unless I have to take the dash out. That is way above my head. You all have sent me on the right direction and I appreciate that. Thank you both, Toney

I have to think both responses are correct. I'll contact the factory tomorrow and ask for a diagram of the air flow. thanks for responding.

I have a '13 HR Ambassador with a dash air discharge problem. When I first start the engine and with the a/c control's set on cool I get very cold air out of the a/c dash vents. However, as the coach engine warms up the a/c air begins to warm up also until all I have is hot air coming out of the dash vents. I cannot find any fuse or circuit breaker blown or tripped. The controls on the a/c control panel are in the proper position for cool air. The air compressor hoses under the front generator area are cold and cool. The heater hoses coming from the electric hot water valve is "hot" supplying the heater coils and cooler returning. I have replaced this electric hot water valve thinking that may be the problem.The new valve did not resolve the situation. This all started during a return trip of camping. Any help is appreciated. Toney, F409212

We checked and they are lady bugs. I have crushed a few of them and they are virtually odorless. I'll try the raid spray you mentioned. Thanks for responding. Toney

My coach has about a zillion lady bugs in the shower stall. I vacuumed out the stall about 2 mt's ago but they just came on back with the warmer weather. I need to know if there is a aerosol that will kill them without damaging the other surfaces in the MH. I use to think they were cute but when in a drove of a zillion attacks you at once I think they are not so cute. My household bug man will not touch the MH because of the potential for liability. He said they are a problem all over his route. All suggestions will be appreciated. Toney, F409212

Thanks Bill, sorry it took so long to get back to you but I lost track of my post. Thanks again for responding.

Nice coach. I just traded in a '08 Seneca for a '13 HR Ambassador. I really wish I had my Seneca back. I envy you. Happy trails. Toney Murphy F409212.

The 2015 is not the same as my 2013 HR Ambassador in many ways.

This is just a shot in the dark but do you have a proportion valve in the system? If so it may not be sending pressure to the right front during hard braking. Just saying as this is just a shot in the dark as I do not know the system. Toney Murphy