racoleman

Thanks again DickandLois. Interestingly or or more confusing depending on ones frame of mind this PDF you sent says the difference beteeen A and B should be the floor thickness plus 1/4" while the first one said the difference should be 1/8". I wonder which one I have. I got a response back from Power Gear (Lippert Components). Not helpful: "The only adjustments that we can advise to on that system are on the head assemblies, where the rams connect to the room. Also we cannot advise on making any modifications to the system."

Thanks DickandLois. But I already found that pdf. It is not exactly what I have. And though it has a drawing of height adjustment on a single ram. I am looking for the adjustment from ram to ram. Additionally the drawing measures form the bottom of the slide out floor. Because of the broke bots my Side out floor sages over 5/8".

The operator manual says Power Gear FLS/RPE DigiSync, no model number. I have emailed them but no response. I am fairiy comfortable with placing the bracket in the same plane as the outer two. The main issue is I want to weld it in place, rather than go through the tremendous expense of replacing the bolts (removing the slide). I am primarily worried about what happens if I remove the ability to adjust the middle bracket. Do the rollers noticeably wear? If so can I just replace them rather than adjust the bracket? Do new rollers very in size so much that adjustment is needed after replacement?l

My problem has now occurred twice, so I am hoping/expecting that others with a 32 foot Adventurer or Suncruiser, with a full wall slide out, have experienced the same problem. My problem is that the two adjustment bolts that hold the bracket for the roller on the middle slide out ram have broken. These bolt are not accessible without removing the slide out and some of the flooring. The first time they broke I was told that they did so because we did not use the slide out lock while traveling. This was true because during the walk through, when we took delivery of the unit, I specifically asked what was the slide out lock for and was told that it is there “to keep kids from playing with the slide outs”. So, since it had now become “our fault” we ponied up several thousand dollars and had the bolts replaced. But I was then concerned that the real problem was that it was not adjusted correctly. So after the repair I took it to a different repair shop (Winnebago certified) and asked them to check the alignment. For $140 they told me that it was “dead on”. 17 months later the bolts have snapped again. So I am pretty sure it’s a design flaw, but Winnebago will not admit it. So this time I want to repair it myself. My idea is to get the bracket in the right position and then weld a plate between the roller bracket and the bracket that holds the heads of the broken bolts. This can all be done without removing the slide. Of course the down side is that, after that, no more adjustment is possible. My thinking is that it should not have to be adjusted again and even if it did, I can incur the expense of removing the slide out then. The one hitch in the plan is Winnebago will not tell me how to adjust the roller brackets. The only provide information on how to make adjustments at the end of the rams where the slide out connects. I can move the middle bracket to be in the same plane as the two end brackets, but that presumes that both of the end brackets are in the correct location. There is a much longer story that strongly suggests that these bolt broke when the unit was driven from the factory to the dealer, so I have reason to suspect the end brackets are not in the correct location. Has anybody experienced the same problem? Any suggestions? PS It is very hard to detect this problem. Its first symptom is that the slide out is too low to open the outside compartments, However when the slide is out and you inspect the bolts they are jammed so close that the break cannot be seen. If you take it to the dealer they can make adjustments to the outside of the end rams so that the compartments will open. But the problem, will reappear. I found the problem only after I decided to make the adjustment myself and noticed that the dealer had snapped off the head of one of the bolts that attached the slide out to ram. I decided to try to remove that bolt so it can be replaced. So I cribbed the slide out, and imaging my surprised when the ram that was supposed to be support the slide out fell down after I removed that last bolt holding it to the slide out. Yes the slide out was holding up the ram that was supposed to be supporting the slide out. The two broken bolts were then easy to spot. So if any of you have experienced not being able to open your outside compartments and you think it got fixed you may want to have those bolts examined.

I had the slow up hills/overheating problem, shortly after I bought the unit, as I live in a mountainous area. I thought I had done my home work, buying one of the highest peak torque to empty weight ratios. There was several problems with that logic. Two were huge. First I did not know then how easy it is to overload a front engine unit, as the manufactures play games with dry weight like not including the weight of "options" that most of us would consider standard. Second I assumed that since I was buying a 2011 unit that the Cummins engine was a 2011. It turned out to be a 2009 that was programmed with a lot less torque and hp So my torque/weight calculations was invalid. The people at Cummins were great. For less than $400, they reprogrammed the engine to the most Torque that block and turbo can take and still have a warranty. Most of that cost was to extend the engine warranty for the higher output. Apparent Winnebago could not afford to do that to begin with. I also did some other small things like shorten the exhaust, wrap the exhaust, turbo and inter-cooler hoses, and changed the air intake so I could use a far less restrictive filter and take in cooler air, All the above added 20 miles per hour to the nearest grade to me (34mph to 54mph) One major bad result was engine overheating due to a too small radiator. And I learned that once the fan clutch fully engaged I lost 15hp. So I hand built a cowl so that all of the air entering the front grill goes through the radiator, which helped greatly. As a further precaution I built a system that used the fresh water system to mist the radiator when engine temp reaches 195. Since doing all this my worse experience has been a grade that I had to slow to 45mph as I was fully loaded (half ton over GVW) and ambient temp was 105. I considered all of the above a band aide. Thinking that hem the engine and/or tranny let go I would pay what ever it takes to install bigger ones (including radiator). But I now have 65k miles and no signs of wear. I also installed a egt gauge as well as a tyranny temp gauges to help detect such signs . In case some of you may want to comment on the overloading. I've spent about 10k beefing the suspension and brakes. Freightliner was way less than helpful on this. But I now have about 90% of the chassis that Winnebago should have used to begin with. If I ever buy a motor home again, which is unlikely. I am going try to buy from a manufacture that is willing to custom install on a chassis and engine combo that is the next step up to what ever they are offering. If I can not do that I am going to build my own.