Jim@Leslie

Well thank you Kay for the information and thank you Joe for all your and everybody else's help over the last few days. The MAS took 24 hours to reach the local ford agent and 25 minutes to fit and check for a good start up. Its running great so chapter rally in Myrtle Beach here we come. Thanks again to everyone for their suggestion, we now have new air and fuel filters and the fuel has been checked for water and everything is looking good. It was the first time I had worked with those Ford fuel connectors so I learned something new and added another gadget to the tool box.

Thanks again J, I will be on my way and will report back when it is fitted and checked. Jim. PS you must be sitting right in front of your computer to come back that quickly!

Thanks again J . It started and ran as you predicted, so what do I need now, a new mass airflow detector I would guess. Probably a Ford part but could be available locally. I wonder whether the water in the air filter had damaged it. Thanks again and I await your reply with some relief. Jim.

Thanks J (for want of not knowing your name). Does it matter which end I unplug, doesn't look like it from the diagram. Mind you the other end of the cable is in a mass of looms and may be longer than shown here so will try via the air box to start with. Will get back to you later, hopefully with results. Jim.

Getting late and Leslie is getting frustrated with me. Found two connectors, one on the back of the air filter canister (rubber bung about 1 1/2 inch tall, 4 wires to it) and one on the rubber connecting hose, plastic fitting about 5/8 inch square. I think you mean the larger one but would like to be sure. Jim

OK , Tried technical tap, no effect. Changed air and fuel filters, no effect, also no water in fuel and just as an aside found some water in the air filter. Don't know where that came from as we are sixty days without rain and Matthew didn't affect us this far in land. Stepping on pedal during the few seconds it is running has no effect, does not accelerate above its 1500 or so rpm that it indicates when the key is turned and it fires up momentarily. Local RV dealers mechanic says he doesn't do chassis work any more, truck dealer says they only service diesels. No one around here seems to do a mobile Mechanic service so it looks like Coachnet will have to send someone from pretty far away. Only other shop wants to tow the RV to their premises, may come to that but our chapter rally next week will be missed, pity. Thanks for your help so far, Now getting worried. All my years as an Aircraft technician doesn't help as I retired before electronic fuel controls became the thing so am way behind the curve on modern EFI engines. I still have my balancing kit for SU twin carbs and I can still set the valves on a floating ring 18 cylinder radial but unfortunately that's no help now. Jim

Thanks for that information, the "Technical Tap" technique as used in all engineering circles. I once managed to get a jet engine start valve to close with smack from a hide faced mallet. As the saying goes its not owning the hammer, its knowing were to apply it. Holding the pedal down and cranking the engine just turns the engine over, it doesn't fire. Pushing the pedal down while the engine runs itself up to its initial 1500 or so RPM has no effect, it just runs down and stops. I will try said technique first and go on from there. Thanks again for all of your advice. Jim.

Well, to be honest I didn't think of water in the fuel as I am always careful to ensure the tank is topped off before the coach is parked to reduce the airspace in the tank in which condensate forms. If there was phase separation occurring in the fuel, which as I said is treated with Sta-bil I would have thought it would effect the generator as well but water settled in the bottom of the tank would not effect the generator. Thanks for that tip and I do believe what people tell me but the replies don't always arrive when I am sitting here, I might just be out trying to find out what is going on myself. Jim.

Right, I have just been out and started the generator. When we got home in Sept. I ran the generator for 20 minutes or so to distribute the Sta-bil loaded fuel to it. It has just started and ran fine which to me indicates that the fuel is probably not the problem with the coach engine. I think that excess Sta-bil is not causing the problem. That puts it into an injector unit problem. Any advise would be appreciated but it looks like Coachnet will be the next call. Jim.

The instructions on the bottle say 1 oz per gal for in use equipment and 2 oz per gallon for storage but not for a specific time. 64 oz is less than 1 oz per gallon. The bottle of Sta-bil was tipped into the tank before the gas was added (about 50 gals) and then we drove home about five miles, at 7 to 9 mpg I would have thought that would have been enough to shake the mix up and distribute it to the injectors. The fact that the engine fires up and then cuts out makes me think the fuel is OK as are the starter, plugs and batteries but I might be wrong.

A problem has occurred with the starting our Newmar Mountainaire which is built on a 1999 Ford Chassis with a Triton V10 engine. When we returned from our September trip I gassed up about five miles from home after putting two large bottles of Sta-Bil in for the 75 Gallon tank. Now, after about 70 days, when I try to start it the engine fires up but refuses to idle or continue running. It just runs up to about 1500 rpm then immediately runs down and stops. If it was a carburetor engine I would suspect a main jet or idle jet blockage but I am not so informed on injection as to be able to diagnose the problem. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.