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rls7201

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Posts posted by rls7201


  1. I just noticed all the corrosion on your generator. Do you live or spend a lot of time on the coast?
    The corrosion would indicate that other items on you generator could be corroded, causing you problem. I.E. electrical connections, slip rings, etc.

    Richard


  2. On 3/29/2020 at 10:37 PM, crice1989 said:

     

    So my question is do I take both purple wires and keep them tied together as  their both signal wires ? Seeing as I have no indicator on my dash, and then can I make a ground to the frame and connect it to the ground terminal spade on the separator  as I would assume the old solenoid grounded to the place it was mounted . 

     

    Can someone please advise about this , I saw WOLFE10 had replied to a similar thread , Or email me and id love to explain further .

    Thank You 

    Chad R

    EMTRICE89@gmail.com

     

    Your old relay is case grounded. The new relay ( with 4th post) will need a ground wire added to the 4th post.
    Leave all other wires as they were.

    Richard


  3. On 3/30/2020 at 4:10 PM, SNAPSHOT said:

    Thanks for your reply, Wolfe.

    The generator runs fine under a load. So that tells me the carburetor is ok. Am I correct? The generator stops when I take the load off. Yesterday, I started the generator. It ran fine. Turned on the refrigerator, hot water heater and the heat strip. Generator ran fine for an hour. Decided to turn off the hot water heater. When I did, generator stopped running and would not restart.

    The carburetor did NOT return to the idle circuit when you removed 1/3 of the load but remained on the main circuit. So your fuel mixture is OK. What could be happening is the carb is not throttling back when you remove the load and the generator is shutting down due to over speed (high frequency).  Clean and check the throttle linkage for crud buildup and binding. If you have a kill-a-watt meter, look closely at the frequency setting when you remove the load from the generator. Onan did not use a fuel pressure regulator on its RV gas generator.

    Richard


  4. Your copied information was way off base.
    While working on cars back in the 60s & 70s with high compression ratios, we would question starters that exceed  175 amps.
    Todays lower compression engines, with gear reduction starters  require less energy.
    My 460/528 9:1 compression ratio stroker engine spins easily at 150 amps when hot.
    The OPs V10 9.2:1 compression ratio engine should spin easily at 150 amps.

    Richard


  5. So much worry about the generator starting with the AC turned on. Those transfer switch contacts are rated @ 30 or 50 amps which is far more than the contacts on the AC start relay. My transfer switch is 25 years old and gets to transfer under AC load many times a year. The transfer switch and contacts are designed for that type of service, just like motor starter contacts in production service are designed to handle the load they are rated for.

    Manholt, what generator bushings are you referring to? 

    Richard


  6. Your "T" handle dipstick was on the recall list. It will show from 1/2 to 1 quart low when the proper amount of oil is in the engine.
    The Ford replacement dipstick has a round loop handle to help eliminate confusion between the two dipsticks.
    Easy fix, stop by your local Ford dealer and purchase the correct dipstick.

    Richard
     


  7. We did Alaska in 2013. The full width mud flap is not a problem if it is at least 4" off the pavement when sitting level. We didn't get any dings on out toad in our 4 months on the road to and from Alaska. The roads are like the roads in the lower 48. You will encounter a lot of road construction. Most campgrounds in Canada & Alaska have clean up facilities. Some are a free hard stand with water and some are pay to use high pressure sprayers. You will want to get off the road early to clean up from the road construction crud.

     

    Richard

     


  8. I believe what you are calling a proportioning valve is actually your hydroboost. The hydroboost supplies energy from the power steering pump to the master cylinder for power brakes. The hydroboost and master cylinder are bolted together and could look like one device with both power steering lines and brake lines together. You could have a bad belt, bad/worn pulleys or a bad tensioner.

     

    Richard


  9. 2 hours ago, RayIN said:

    image.png.9471abf2d894204240eccb66d058b3c4.png

    What richard linked-to is a press-fit, IF the groove is cut to width properly.

    The toung (incert) is not on center and the pressfit is not tight enough to maintain the fit for very long.

    I gussied up my ol Bounder with wood grain trim. It looks like this. Which I could remember the supplier.

    9jdtFZKl.jpg

     


  10. On 11/8/2019 at 11:40 PM, DickandLois said:

    Thanks for your feedback. 

    Could you offer some mileage and driving conditions the 3 engines where exposed to that might have caused the intake manifold leak or if it was a material failure issue.

    Rich.

    2 of then appeared to have loose intake manifold bolts due to gasket crush. The other one appeared to be from overheating and warped mating surfaces.

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