mikerodg

Thank you for the advice. Left this morning, opened all my windows so the wind would blow through the rig. As we came around to 7 mile bridge the direction of the bridge and the winds were East to West. So we had a tailwind. Was also able to maintain the speed limit.

I'm leaving Key Largo for Key West Monday the 9th. Cross winds of 28 mph are forecast. Should I cancel for 2 days or just drive carefully? Thanks, Mike Rodgers 303-877-7501

I have an 03 Phaeton with a black and white camera. It's very hard to see much of anything due to the lens type. Has anyone upgraded theirs to a color camera? Is wireless a good option? Do I need additional wiring for a direct wire system? I'd prefer to install it where the existing system is. Thanks, Mike

I thought I would give a remedy for frosting refrigerator fins. My Dometic Dimensions 2 door refrigerator was frosting badly due to a bad doors seal and poor internal circulation. I purchased an oem door seal from Deyers for around $200. I did not like to size and thickness of the ones found at Walmart. It installed easy enough. I still did not have a perfectly tight fit so I installed a small wood shim where the door latches. Its very tight now. I also installed a dual fan with a switch onto the fins and wired it into the door light with a piggyback connector . It is on all the time. A little over a week now and no frost.

Thanks Bill and Carl. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I had to figure out how to set my devices on roaming down here and Rocky Point. Yes we're right on the beach at Playa Bonita RV Park. we got lucky facing the ocean watching the sun sets. We're going to have the rig painted down here full body paint for $4,500. The faucet was a simple fix as many things are. I detach the feed supply to the handle took apart the O-ring retaining a small spring plunger I think they were slightly out of whack put them back together blue through it and got a great stream of air hooked it up been working ever since.

Thanks guys I can always rely on you for answers. We're traveling from Denver down to Rocky Point Mexico. I have a stop in Las Cruces tonight and Tucson tomorrow. I'll try to find a Home Depot and buy a cartridge period and work on it when I get to Mexico. I'll give you an update when I've solved it

I have an 03 Phaeton Class A. All of a sudden my new kitchen sink faucet has zero water coming out. Not even a drip. Yesterday afternoon it was working fine. Checked the water lines underneath loose and one connection water came out so I know I have water going to the faucet connection lines. Toilet and all other things are working just fine. Any thoughts please.

Final update to raise basement doors. And the winner is Cruisingator from the Tiffin network. :thumbsup One of his suggestions was to use a two stage shock. These open to 90 degrees and then with a little push open all the way. This was also suggested by the Tiffin parts department. At first I was concerned because they were 60 lbs not 40 lbs and they were 20" instead of 17". I bought two. Installed them on the propane door. They work great and it seems I only need one shock per door. Not cheap, $28, but worth it. My head and back already feel better. Thank everybody, Mike :clap

You are right about that. I bought an HP12c app for the phone for $5. The calculator cost me $125 back in the day.

I called Tiffin to order some other parts and he suggested the two stage shocks. The first stage opens to 90 degrees and then you apply extra force and it opens higher. I've ordered two and will see how they work. I also crawled under the coach at the propane door to view the spring when closed. It's the only bay that is open to the ground. There is 3" left on the stroke on the shock so I assume I can move the anchor point up about 2.5". Any of you engineers/mathematicians want to pull out your slide rule and tell me how much more opening I will get? :jester Thanks. Mike

Update I just came from the storage and checked and measured two doors. The 90 degree propane door does have the c hinge. But the all have the same hinge and it doesn't impede the ability to raise them higher. I'm sure that's simplicity of design on the manufacturer's part. One door is the type that rises at about 130 degrees and the other is my propane door under a slide. The regular door is 31.5 inches top to bottom. The propane door is 23.5". All of the shocks are 17.5 inches. Simplicity of design once again. The one variable is the location of the anchor point. One was 5" from the bottom and one was 14". If you add the shock length to the anchor point you get the height of the door. ie. 17.5" + 14" = 31.5" The propane door doesn't measure exactly the same but it's close. If I move the anchor point up I'm not sure the shock will compress enough. If I shorten the chock it might not raise it enough. The stroke of a 40lb chock is 7". So theoretically I should be able to move the anchor point from 5" to 13". 10" or 12" is probably sufficient. Let me know I fI'm on the right track. I'm guessing it will take some trial and error but I rather not drill a bunch of holes in the frame for the anchor.

I have an 03 Phaeton diesel pusher. The basement doors under my slide only open to 90 degrees. I know this is to stop from hitting the slides. I would like to forgo that preventative design and have them raise higher. It would make things so much easier when getting set up and filling the propane tank. Hatchlift had no idea how to do it . Any recommendations or web sites I should visit. Thanks, Mike

Thanks JohnJohn from Tittin network suggested turning it to AC first then to heat. His tip worked. I'm thinking maybe it as stuck in a cycle and just had to be re-cycled through the options. Anyway it was 55 degrees out, generator running since I no longer had shore power, turned it to air for a few seconds, turned it off, then turned it to heat and it turned on and ran longer than before. Mike

I have an 03 Phaeton Diesel pusher. It has 2 ac/heat pump systems on the roof. The AC works great on both. When I tested the heat pumps it was 47 degrees outside. The heat pump on the rear works. But the heat pump on the front turns on and then immediately turns off. Any ideas on where to start with this? Thanks, Mike

I have a Freedom 458 series Combi inverter/charger. I believe it is model 20. It was a remote control system inside the coach that is a Xantrex. The overtemp light is blinking on my inverter and the cooling fan is running. This just started within the last week. The manual says it could be a short in the system. I have 4 6v Interstate batteries that are 2-3 years old. I've checked the house batteries and they take a charge. They are testing at fair when discharged. I've topped off with distilled water. I disconnected the house batteries to shut the inverter off in the hopes it would re-boot itself when I re-connected. No luck same problem exists. Recently I changed out the fog lights for led's. They work fine. A couple of months ago I changed the 3 wall sconces. The 12v system was disconnected. They work fine. The 12v system in the coach seems to be working fine. Added this to post 5/8/16: I am not connected to shore power. The inverter will not turn off when I press the charge button. Both 20 & 15 breakers are off. I will check for obstruction around the vent fan. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, Mike 03 Tiffin Phaeton