greenbarn1
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Everything posted by greenbarn1
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Saco river c.g North Conway is a great location. You have to check out cathedral ledge while there. Very nice clean big rig friendly c.g. I live in NH, trust me.
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Thanks for all the replys. I will let you know how I make out. Will call fleetwood first.
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Herman, protective insulation and almost all wires are chopped clean. I didn't notice it until after I bought motorhome. Not the end of the world but power door locks, illuminated door handle, and who knows what don't work. It's really a cable carrying a lot of very small gauge wires.
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Wildbill308, harness is about the size of my pinkie finger. Each wire in harness is very small and about twelve wires. So probably replace would be a better choice for me.
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2004 American Tradition: the wiring harness that runs from door thru door jamb has broken almost all the way thru. Harness has about 12 - 20 gauge wires in it. Has anybody experienced this and how difficult was the repair. I have looked at a lot of Traditions and Eagles and they show signs of starting to break also. Maybe the fact that my coach has 105,000 miles on it has a lot to do with it. That's a lot of door opening and closing.
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PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL WORKING UNDER COACH. I PUT MY JACKS ALL THE WAY UP. THEN I PUT BLOCKS UNDER JACKS TIGHTLY!!!
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Great idea on taking pictures. I also lay my parts out in the order I remove them. Hopefully oil works for awhile. But I think the handwriting is on the wall. Nothing lasts forever. Thanks again everybody for all the help. Carl
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Update, oiled motor went from a screaming banshee to absolutely quiet.. Thanks for the help. Carl
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Hello, have a 2004 American Tradition with two Atwood hot air furnaces. Had a blower motor bearing go bad on one squealing terribly. In southern Florida no mobile guy wants to mess with it. Lazy days says $129.00 an hour and they don't do many so can't give ballpark figure. Not sure if repair or replacement is the best route. Thanks Carl.
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Try checking: door switch, battery charge, fuse and wire connections. Possibly a bad ground.
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Thanks Herman. Look forward to the photos.
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Thanks Bill, tried that no luck.
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Well it is official!!! After successfully drilling the center of the 10-24 bolt. Instead of continuing to drill and tap hole. I decided to use a easy out. Well you no the rest of the story. Yup broke the easy out. Gearbox is junk now thanks to my stupidity. Herman why did you replace your components on your step. Your gearbox sounds like a good idea. If gearbox is still bolted to mounting plate just leave it those bolts can break taking them out. 1. Thanks carl
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Hi all, I own a 2004 American Tradition. Just discovered one of the stainless steel bolts that hold motor to gearbox on Kwikee step broke in gearbox. Dealer said impossible to extract stainless bolt out of aluminum housing. Probably very true. Said I would need new gearbox and motor? Motor works fine. I will call Lippert Monday. Anybody have any experience with this thanks.
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2001 Newmar Dutchstar.
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Yes, I used a quarter turn used on hot tubs. Worked perfectly. Actuator was not closing so as coach warmed up I lost a/c. I never have needed a defroster in a class a motorhome. If in cold weather I turned valve open.
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Had same problem. Actuator valve in front of coach. Access by pulling front nose out. I put a 5/8 quarter turn made to handle high temperatures. So when weather is hot I shut valve stopping hot water mixing with cold air.. Works perfect.
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F.y.i. Just had a hot water supply line from tank fail. Cause of failure was a lil q-wickee line with plastic nuts on end of line cracking. Found out there is a known problem with the plastic nuts. Replacement line has steel nuts on line for connections. This is on a 2004 American tradition. Label on line says to replace after 10 yrs. luckily we were home when it burst. I would recommend checking your hot water feed and supply lines on older coaches. and replacing them as maintenance rather then a costly clean up after a failure when your not there.
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Ok guys installed new belt. Procedure is there is a small idler wheel between water pump and a/c compressor. You need14mm socket to loosen bolt in center of pulley. Then there is a bolt (15mm)socket that runs thru the backside of idler pulley bolt.this bolt is used for tension on bolt. Whether to tighten or loosen the belt. However if you don't loosen bolt in center of idler first that bolt just threads in and out doing nothing. That was what was throwing me off at first. Hope this helps. Thanks again for the ideas.
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Thanks everybody for the replies.. Will check tomorrow with all your ideas. Will post with results. In Perry GA at Harbor View RV Park visiting family.
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Hi all, need to change a/c belt on my 2004 Cummins 8.9 isl engine. Motor has separate belt just for a/c. There is a single bolt on small tensioner wheel. I loosened that bolt but still had tension on belt.not sure if it is frozen or I need to do something else. Thanks for the help.
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Thanks for the replys. Tried all the above still the same. Contacted Fleetwood they think maybe zone 1 thermistor. They also said if it's the circuit board or the thermostat I am out of luck because Atwood no longer makes them. So I said what would I do then and they said I would have to run new cabling to support new controls and that they have never done one because it's to expensive. Wow not good news.
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Hi all, I have coach net.Used them for the first time last week. Lost a belt tensioner in my 400 hp Cummins on 84 west in NY. Called-- waited on hold for ever. They wanted to tow my m.h. I told them I could give them my engine serial # so they could send mechanic with right tensioner and belt. They really wanted to tow m.h. I insisted on a roadside service call. They said someone will call to come out to help. Nobody called so I unhooked tow vehicle drove 49 miles each way to a Freightliner dealer got parts and was back on road in 3 hours. I think there service is a waist of money.
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Not sure of model #. It is a Atwood 5 button digital thermostat that controls 2 zones. Each sone has a furnace, air conditioning and heat pump.. I believe problem is only on zone 1. I am second owner and can't find model number anywhere.
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Hi all, I have a 2004 American tradition. My Atwood thermostat will read room temperature when every once in a while temperature will drop 1 degree at a time to maybe 60 degrees. Then immediately return back to room temperature 1 degree at a time. This whole sequence takes maybe 5 or 10 seconds. Just long enough to call for heat or a/c.. Happens intermittently all day. Thanks