dmastroluca

My plan exactly. I will post an update with before & after pictures.

Nothing on Google. Thetford tech support said no kit is available and no schematic. They basically said I was on my own and it would void warranty. The warrant was expired 14 years ago. Just wanted to see if anyone has done the mod on the forums.

We have a Thetford Aria Deluxe II with the flush buttons on the toilet. DW wants the switch panel moved to the wall. Anyone move their switch from the toilet to another location? Is there a kit available?

I moved the guide to dropbox. It is a 25MB file because of all the pictures. Dropbox might be quicker.

I made a guide to show you how to convert a Thin-Lite Model 746 from fluorescent lamps to LED lights for about $11 per fixture. I used a roll of waterproof LED lights that can be cut to size. I installed 4 – 12” strips of white LEDS in each fixture, and two strips of blue LEDS. I replaced the 2 position switch to a 3 position on-off-on switch to control what color lights you want on. The two blue lights are used for accent lighting, and are great to use as a nightlight. You can purchase any color accent lights. Versus the fluorescent lamps, power consumption went from 30 watts to less than two. Light output with the 4 - LED strips on was brighter than the fluorescent lamps. You can add more LED strips or longer strips if desired. Here is a link to the pdf. https://www.dropbox.com/s/6av8pb6pmp721c5/Fluorescent%20Light%20Fixture%20Conversion%20to%20LED.pdf?dl=0 It is 25MB in size, so if you have a slow internet connection, it might take e few minutes to download.

Highly recommend a dash "red" light being installed to indicate when system is activated I love my Roadmaster Invisibrake. Just hook up power and kill switch lanyard from the coach and go. I installed the dash light with my Roadmaster Invisibrake. It is really nice to know when your toad brakes are being used, and even more reassuring to know when they aren't being used.

I agree. I have seen their "enforcement" people cruise up and down the street real slow. A couple of old, frumpy, blue haired ladies with clip boards. No offense to any blue haired ladies on the forum.

Here is what I have to deal with my Nazi like HOA. I haven't been dinged yet, but I am expecting a violation letter from the HOA if they see the coach in front of my house for more than a day or two.

We just used our Karma Go 4G WIFI Hotspot for our coach and it works great. We are getting blazing fast download speeds (a lot faster than campground wifi). You can get 10GB of data that never expires for $99. They also have a $50 month unlimited plan with up to 5MBps service. The pay as you go feature is nice for us because we only use it for camping, and we only seriously camp in the spring and summer months, so the data I buy in the spring will stay on the account forever without expiring. Data on most other cell plans expire. Read your fine print if you don't believe me. Another cool thing is that if other campers in the campground jump on your wifi, you and the person that logs on get 100Mb of free data. If anyone is serious about getting a Karma Go too, I have a $10 off coupon you can use here. https://yourkarma.com/invite/dan3727887

Sounds like you might want to turn in a homeowners claim on that one and get it repaired at repair center.

UPDATE: The problem was the 14 year old solar regulator between the array and the batteries. It was totally lying to the previous owner, my RV inspector, and me. It said it was charging 13 volts @ 4 amps, when in reality it was outputting 2 volts to the house batteries. I replaced the regulator with a Go Power! GP-PWM-30 30 Amp Solar Regulator. It popped right in the same hole as the Siemens regulator, and it even has the capability to charge my chassis batteries after it charges/conditions my house batteries. All I have to do is run another cable from the regulator to my chassis battery bank. Not bad for $124.

That sounds scary! I don't think the previous owners installer went that route. There is a Siemens 20 amp solar regulator panel in the bedroom, below the sink, above the battery compartment. I will try and use my Fox/Hound tracer on the wires going from that regulator and see where they end up. Hopefully in the battery compartment.

Well, after 3 months of owning this thing I just figured out that the after market Siemens Solar setup is not charging the house batteries. I thought it was working because the Siemens regulator panel looks like it is working. It shows battery condition and current charging status, but the brand new house batteries are not being charged by the system. In full sun it says it was charging @ 4 amps. Dumb question#1 Does the voltage from the panels go through the regulator and then right to the house batteries? Dumb question #2 Does the inverter have to be on all the time for the solar to charge the house batteries? The house batteries charge fine on shore or genet power.

UPDATE: It finally cooled down enough in Vegas over the weekend to work in the coach. I installed the new EMS board/ EMS display, and fired up the genny. The GenSet light came on the EMS display board, and I had access to all 65 Amps of power. I was able to turn on both heatpumps, both TV's, the refer on AC, and the convection oven on broil. I hope this board is more robust than the original.

UPDATE: Problem solved! The 12 pin connector that ScanGauge sent me works. Getting all needed data from the computer to the display. Not sure why the other data connector in the electronics bay is not working.

The plot thickens. Hooked the ScanGaugeD to the round, 6 pin data port in the forward bay. It was not reading and data from the computer, so I contacted tech support, they said use another port. Searched the coach for an hour from front to back, top to bottom, and the only "other" port I could find was a 12 pin terminal about a foot away from the original round data port. Took a picture of the 12 terminal data port and sent it to the ScanGauge folks. It has only 4 active pins, so it looks promising, but it appears to be in the area of the Allison trans computer, so I am confused why that data port would work and the other one wouldn't. ScanGauge tech support said that other data port might work, and they are sending me a new cable to run to my unit on the dash at no cost. More to follow.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I could find nothing pre made, so I will rig something up. I am surprised. You would think Blue Ox or Roadmaster would make something like this and charge $50 for $2.50 worth of components .

Looks like Cadillac wants us to pull 3 fuses on our SRX to tow flat. I really don't want the hassle of crawling under the dash and pulling and inserting fuses at every camping spot. Not only a PITA, but the wear and tear on the fuse terminals has me concerned. I am looking for a terminal type device that will plug into the fuse panel, and then it is hooked to a 3 pole switch that I can mount on the dash. Then I could "pull" all three fuses with one click. I will make it myself if I have to, but I can't find any kind if terminal plug that will fit the SRX fuse block.

Yes, it is a new unit. I will be calling tech support tomorrow. I just hope it isn't a problem in the wiring between the data port and the ECU. Any idea where the ECU is on a 2001 Monaco Diplomat? The chassis schematic shows only one data port, but I am wondering if there is another one in the back by the engine.

I just installed a ScanGuage D, it it is not working as it should. I plugged it into the data port and it connects when I start the engine, but the only parameter it shows is voltage. No RPM, temps etc.. I was able to see a stored error code, so it is talking to the ECU. It also goes to sleep after 15 sec. According to the manual, when it goes to sleep after 10-15 sec, there is a communications problem with the ECU. If it is reading error codes, how is it having communication problems? Just wondering if anyone else had this problem on initial install?

Well, so much for stellar tech support from Intellitec. I was not lucky enough to get the same tech that was so helpful last time. After a few minutes of getting the new tech support person up to speed on the issue, he seemed to get annoyed with me and then asked for the model number of the logic board. After I gave that info to him, he said that board is obsolete and there is no support for it. Looks like I am buying a replacement, although, after talking with the last tech, I am thinking about going with another EMS system.

UPDATE: Lucked out on this one. It was loose, but it was not because of the mounting hardware. There is a foil, double backed alumimun tape sticker that has the heating wires in it. The shaking was caused by a portion of the tape that stopped sticking to the mirror. I took the mirror off, cleaned it, and then used mirror epoxy to re-attach it to the heating element. A $5 tube of mirror adhesive and about a hour of labor. The mirror is steady as a rock now.

It is an Onan 7.5 Kw, and it is a 36 PBD. I was confused too when I went to buy it. From Monaco, the 36PBD is not listed on the 2001 brochure, but it is on the 2002 brochure for some reason??? Bought it from a one owner private party, so no warranty from them. I purchased an extended warranty, but this would fall under the "pre existing" clause of the contract. I guess I wasn't clear in my first post, I verified both 120v legs of the generator to the EMS logic board. I even verified the required 12V supply to the logic board, and the 12V generator run sense signal to the EMS logic board per the manual and Intellitec tech support. That gen set sense signal is supposed to go to zero volts when the gen is off, and it does. The only thing strange is that there is a third connection on that terminal that is supposed to be a ground and it isn't. I even manually grounded it, and it did not work. Intellitec tech support is stumped. They are great to work with so far, and they want me to call them with my multimeter in hand to check specific test points on the logic board to try and troubleshoot it. My HOA gets really mad when my coach is on the street over 24 hours, so I am planning on moving the coach from storage, and working with Intellitec tech support on my next day off, Friday morning. I have a feeling it is going to be the logic board.

I am working with Intellitec support on this issue, but I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue. The EMS 800 contol pane has 4 input LED's showing your current power source. Gen Set 50 AMP 30 AMP 20 AMP All the shore power inputs 50/30/20 light up fine when you apply the desinated power source, and the unit works. When running the generator, the EMS control panel will not light the "Gen Set" LED only the 30 AMP LED. This is preventing me from running both roof airs bacause the load is 32 amps. I checked at the input/output of the transfer switch, and I have 120 volts on both legs of the generator. I checked the input to the EMS 800 load center and I have both 120 legs of the genny going into the main box.

Thanks for the replies and thread name change. I just figured since it was already 104 degrees here in Vegas that it would not need to preheat the glow plugs. Good info in case I run the fuel line dry in the future.