rpbuttery
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Everything posted by rpbuttery
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I saw the Fire Guy's article in FMCA Magazine a few months ago, too. This is the only post that came up when I searched the topic on this forum, so doesn't appear to be much out there on the subject, and as is the case in many things in life, seems to be a 50/50 issue. I wonder, do the tractor trailers we see out on the highway use them?
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And on, and on, and .... No solution yet. All diagnostics and test results are negative. Last straw being clutched--changing inverter to a pure sine inverter from modified sine, and Magnum from Xantrex. Hope!
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And the beat goes on... Related to my original March 14 posting above regarding the buzzing GFCI outlet--but buzzing only on inverter: RV repair techs swapped out the GFCI. Still buzzed. They then replaced the modified sine wave Xantrex Freedom 458 inverter, which did test as marginal. Still buzzed. After consulting with Xantrex, the techs swapped the GFCI outlet for a different brand GFCI suggested by Xantrex. Still buzzes. Supposedly, the new inverter and new GFCI tests as ok. Any further thoughts?
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Thanks, Tireman9. (I think our posts crossed in the air.) I think I've got it now.
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Let me try this again. I think I confused by mixing definition and terms. Using the terms from a Tireman9 blog post, I am going to use 80 psi for the front tires minimum cold inflation pressure (MCIP), and 85 psi for the rear tires MCIP, as suggested by Tireman9 above. Then, adding 10 psi to each, I will use 90 and 95 psi as my goal cold inflation pressure (GCIP), or set point (I.e., the pressures at which I will maintain the tires). However, because my TireMinder system uses a 15% (which I cannot change) below set baseline for normal air loss alerts (rapid air loss alerts are,of course, immediate), I will set the TireMinder baselines at 95 psi for the front, and 100 psi for the rear. Thus, normal air loss alerts (which in theory should never happen) would happen at 80.75 psi for the front, and 85 psi for the rear. Is this sufficiently muddy? ?
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Thanks all for the great information. (The specifics to my data from Wayne77590 and Tireman9 were especially helpful--non-technical info that even I can understand.) If you could backstop me on one other thing. I use the TireMinder Model A1A tire pressure monitoring system. The "normal pressure loss" alert (as contrasted to "rapid" or "semi rapid" air loss) in this system is issued when the pressure in a tire has dropped 15% below the baseline pressure. (TireMinder uses baseline pressure to be the cold inflated pressure the tire is to contain.) Based on a synthesis of the comments above, if I set the MCIP for the front tires at 90 psi, and the rear at 95 psi, my TireMinder normal pressure loss alert would happen at approximately 77 psi and 81 psi, respectively. Does that sound reasonable and acceptable? P.S. to Tireman9--I use my coach air compressor system with NAPA 90-475 air hardware with bleed valve. I haven't confirmed its accuracy to a certified gauge, but I will.
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Tireman9, Actual corner weights were: LF--4,500 RF--4,860 LR--8,980 RR--9,080 I have new Michelin XZA3 tires--275/80R22.5, load range G. They replaced Michelin XZE2 tires (the MH manufacturer's original equipment). Thanks. (May have answered my own question. In looking at the Michelin RV Tire Reference Chart, I see that the maximum pressure--for both the single and dual positions--is 110 psi.)
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I had my 2011 Allegro Open Road RED (purchased "previously enjoyed" a year ago) four corner weighed at the Freightliner Service Center in Gaffney, SC recently. Both the front and rear axle weights were very close to the manufacturer's maximum axle weight ratings. Based on these weights, the Freightliner techs said the indicated tire pressures for my Michelin XZA3 tires was 90 PSI, and set all six tires there. The manufacture's weight label (the label next to the driver's seat in the cockpit) indicates recommended tire pressures of 110 PSI for all six tires. Why would there be that much difference between the two when the actual axle weights--both front and rear--were very close to the manufacturer's maximum axle weights?
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Regarding National Office post above:: "Also, the Jeep Customer Assistance Center is advising people not to flat tow the Cherokee until the new accessory has been installed." Yeah, I'll bet they are! Hello, lawsuit! Are they suggesting how we do that when they don't even have "the accessory" available yet? Talking about putting the burden on the consumer!
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Also, yes, when the inverter is on. Test and reset has worked fine several times, but doesn't stop buzzing. Buzzes only on inverter/coach batteries, not shore power. Thanks.
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The GFCI outlet in my bathroom (2011 Tiffin Allegro Open Road RED)--the only GFCI outlet in the coach--has developed a buzzing noise, but only when on the coach batteries. That is, when on shoreline power, there is no buzzing. It hasn't tripped, and resetting it has not stopped the buzz. Any thoughts?
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I took copies of all the relevant documents (service bulletin, flat towing instructions from original owner's manual, flat towing instructions from current Jeep website owner's manual, and this forum chain) to my Jeep dealer today, and talked to the Service Manager about the issue. He had no knowledge of the issue, nor did anyone in the service and parts departments. Long story short, once the Service Manager got past that I wasn't talking about a recall issue, he caught up pretty fast. End result, he prepared a service order, and ordered the part. (The "fix" part is not available now, and is back-ordered. He had no estimate of when the part would be available, which is troubling considering Jeep has supposedly been working on this issue since September, 2015.) From my experience today, I offer the following suggestions for anyone discussing this with a Jeep dealer: Make clear this is not a recall issue. If the dealer says: "Well, since it hasn't happened to your unit yet, we don't know that your unit has the problem." Your response should be: "Yes, but now that Jeep has changed the owner's manual to require the accessory wiring kit, if I tow without it, isn't Jeep going to disavow responsibility for damage to my car because I did not follow the owner's manual requirement (albeit, changed)?" (This seemed to be the most persuasive argument to my Service Manager for Jeep to handle this.) I did not discuss cost, or who pays. One thing at a time.
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Curious, have any owners of the topic Cherokee owners received any official communication from Jeep concerning this issue? We were suppose to hear the end of January; then the end of February. I'm becoming very skeptical (and cynical) about Jeep's motives and intentions on this. This isn't going quietly away--thanks to FMCA!
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Regarding Administrators post immediately above, as a first time Jeep owner--a 2016 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk purchased especially and specifically to tow behind my motorhome--I am not going to be a happy camper (pardon the bad pun) if Jeep tells me I have to buy an accessory, no matter the cost, to make their product perform as they market it. The model's ability to be easily and seamlessly flat towed is splashed throughout Jeep's marketing materials. I have not towed mine yet, but plan on leaving for a six month trip from Orlando to Alaska May 1, and do not relish finding out in Whitehorse YT that my Trailhawk has the problem!
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I have read with interest the various postings connected in any manner with my Topic Title. I have never used a tow car protection device of any sort, but having just purchased a new 2016 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, am giving it some thought. The various postings aren't too favorable to the tow bar mounted shields, such as the Blue Ox Kargard or Kargard II. Some posters have described making their own, using various materials, which doesn't really appeal to me, either. There was a favorable post on the tow car shield (best described as a bra covering the entire front-end and windshield) made by Coastline RV and Off Road in California. Does anyone else have experience or knowledge with this product, or any other products?