mjlayton

I have a Generac in my 96 Dolphin. It works pretty well the only thing I've replaced is the controller. The generator is noisy, leaks oil, and the exhaust is very unpleasant. My previous motorhomes had Onan 'Quiet' series generators that were trouble free and could not be heard in the coach. I kept several manuals on my old Onans and I took measurement around the existing Generac. Seems really close dimensionally. Has anyone installed an Onan 5.5KW 'Quiet' series in their Dolphin. Thanks, Mike Layton

Problem solved. Thanks to all, it was a bad high pressure switch. Still looking for the fuse and relay location for future reference.

Thanks, one of their suppliers in California bought all the rights to their name, trademarks, and patents. No plans to manufacture. Owned a 97 Fleetwood Flair. Fleetwood (Winnebago) does not support pre-bankruptcy units.

Actually the A/C is going out on high limit because of the lack of airflow at idle. The auxiliary fan provides additional flow over condenser coil over 221deg or when A/C is on. Thanks for your input.

Replaced the original fan last July. On our recent trip the A/C quit cooling at idle, no voltage at fan with A/C on. Have a few possible wiring diagrams, all show a fused circuit and relay activated by the temperature switch or A/C controls. No fuses or relay ahead of the firewall. Does anyone know where this relay might be located? Thanks, Mike Layton

I checked everything from a clogged roof vent, to rust on the burner, to poorly aligned thermocouple. Well I got tired of chasing phantoms and ordered a Dinosaur control board. It came today, pulled the old one, set & wired the new one. All the lights on the interior panel were correct, but nothing happened. Propped fridge door open & went outside, (plink) the 120v element came on and began to warm. I unplugged the 120v cord, click, clink, fump, & I had a gas burner going. let it burn while I put all the covers back on. Still burning after five minutes, plugged in the 120v & it switched over. Happy Day!!!!! Thanks for all the input, Mike Layton

The fridge stopped working on LP and everything thawed out. I started the generator and it switched to AC and began cooling. Before it got cold I would unplug the AC cord at the service panel outside and listen for the gas valve and ignitor, only heard a relay click on the control board. Thanks, Mike Layton

I have a Dometic RM 7732 side-by-side. It cools & freezes great. Lately it has been troublesome on LP. It may run for days or weeks without problem, then it may be days before it will work on LP again. I've checked all fuses, ground connections, wire terminals, thermocouple, venturi, and ignitor tip. If you unplug the AC plug on the outside and wait a few seconds, a relay will click on the PC board. I cannot hear the gas valve or spark ignitor do anything. Where should I go from here? Thanks, Mike Layton

Well I got to the bottom of my brake problems. My master cylinder was bad. The one for my motorhome was for a 1950 Ford F1 pick-up. It has a casting #1050, which is a 1'' bore. Some other Nationals use one from an F3 ***** they do not interchange***** bolt pattern & hub are different. The diaphragm in the booster was good & is a Bendix (hydrovac). Thanks to all who commented. Should be stylin' now. New front bushings & air bags, new Airlift rear air bags, working tag brakes.

It's been a while. We found a cause for most of the vibration. When I had the motorhome serviced this spring we found the tag axle bearing had excessive play. got a spec sheet from Dexter, lubed the bearings, pre-loaded as instructed, and reinstalled the wheels. Not gone, but reduced a great deal. Thanks for everyone's input. Mike Layton

I had the same problem about a month ago. I found a bundle of wires, secured by plastic wire ties, near the frame rail. They were covered in road grime. I cut the wire ties and separated the bundle. There were some wires butt spliced in this group and the largest one was very corroded. This happened to be the main wire feeding the step. I cut the splice out, stripped the wires back and installed a new butt splice. I secured the wire bundle with fresh wire ties and tested the step. Works perfectly. Mike Layton

Thanks for your information. After some research I found a rebuild kit for the master cylinder, It's the same as a1950 Ford F3. The mechanic is gong to clean the brake mechanisms up to insure the system is operating. Then I'll look for brake shoes and the like. Mike Layton

I had my mechanic check the tag axle bearings while he was servicing it for a trip. The brakes are not operating. It has a mor/ryde suspension with Dexter drum brakes. We found shoes and such, but it appears the master cylinder needs rebuilt or replaced. Master Brake Inc is out of business. Any suggestions? Thanks, Mike Layton

Thanks to everyone for their input. The mechanic said it started this morning normally, idled 1/2 hour, and quit. He has someone with a code reader, we're at a diesel shop. The guy is going to come by & hook it up. Diesel mechanic wants to check for other problems before he pulls the tank. Found a pump and filter in Oneida, TN. Hope I can go down next weekend and drive back. Mike

We recently purchased this motorhome and began maiden voyage from Terre Haute, IN to Charleston, SC. Just inside TN we stopped at rest area, when we restarted ran very rough and died. Cranked fine would not fire. Let it set for a few minutes, started and ran fine. Drove toward Knoxville for about 30 miles and decided to top for our first fill-up. Started, ran poorly as before, died, and would not re-fire. Plenty of spark, bought starting fluid, it would fire right of with a little spray in the air intake. Anyone know what to check or have a part number for a fuel pump? We have it at a large truck shop, but they won't look at it for a couple of days Thanks, Mike Layton