cdsuggs

Well, the generator started an ran when we got to the garage. I loaded it up with the air conditioners and water heater and let it run for an hour. Lesson learned. If nothing else, when they ask about the under-chassis wash, say no. Thanks for all of the info.

Thanks for the input. IF I ever take it to a truck wash again, I'll definitely tell them not to do the underneath wash. I feel that's part of what happened.

It is clean though. The only thing I can think of right now is give it the night to dry out. Will probably try out the generator tomorrow afternoon in Oklahoma. At least there it will be a month before I have to go anywhere.

I've got a QD8000 in my 2010 Fleetwood Discovery. On the way to the campground in Arlington, TX today, I stopped at the Blue Beacon Truck Wash and got the coach a much needed bath. Now when I start the generator, it runs for several seconds and shuts down. The EC30 gives me a service code of 3 followed by a code of 38 stating that there is an over-current condition. It was running ok before. Sounds to me like something got wet that shouldn't have, but I don't even have a clue about where to start looking. Any pointers would be appreciated.

33 degrees. No wonder my butt was cold sitting on the asphalt. Just to cover the bases that Carl mentioned, both front tires were set at 115 psi. The highest temp I saw on any tire all day was 88 degrees. The rears were set at 105 and the temps were similar. Those pressures were taken using my electronic gauge from Tire Minder. The running pressures were read on my A1A model Tire Minder. Of course, they only guarantee a 3% accuracy. Two readings could be 6 psi different and still be within the system capability. Not trying to cause a ruckus. Just relating a random thought that sprung into my mind. The two articles tireman9 directed me to pretty much spelled out the answers to my queries. However, I never would have found them if I hadn't asked. By the way, the air that I used to adjust the tires before leaving home was taken from the coach air. With about 20% relative humidity, it should have been pretty dry. Can't say much about the air already in the tires though. Last time I went up any about 6 months ago I used my Viair.

Tried to look at the markings on the top of the batteries, but they weren't marked. The rest of the compartment was pretty dirty for what that means. The leveling system that I've got is a Power Gear Automatic system. I don't have the control panel in front of me, but have found a manual online that gives me some information, as soon as I figure out exactly which jacks I have. Didn't have any trouble in Texarkana, but that was on a pretty level asphalt parking lot.

The two links went a long way in letting me know that others may also have minds full of very interesting thoughts that are of somewhat less use than they are interesting. Some of what I read was information that I knew. My major background is in military strategic/tactical aviation. Large aircraft tires are similar to large truck or RV tires, except that they get worn out much faster and are filled with nitrogen which is normally converted from liquid nitrogen. This makes the pressures much more stable, especially since tire temperatures can vary between as low as -50 degrees centigrade and +200 degrees centigrade. Convert that to Fahrenheit and you find temperatures that you would definitely not wish to place your bare hand on. In both the C-141 and the C-17, the safety factor for tire limiting speed was 150%. I don’t know what the bursting pressure would be, but I suspect it would be rather high. In the case that I was referring to, after weighing the coach, we came up with a minimum pressure on the rear tires of 95 psi. Adding a 10% safety factor gives me a pressure of 105. That is what I had the rear tires set at. The wheel is stamped for a 120-psi temperature in a dual configuration. I believe that it does say cold, but am not at the coach right now to check. The tire pressures were set early Saturday morning. The tires were correct at the time. About 2 hours after leaving Texarkana, the left outside tire was 88 degrees Fahrenheit and the pressure read 121 psi. It just jumped into my mind that “hey, that’s above the pressure that it says on the wheel.” I wasn’t concerned that the wheel would break. I used to do some rather outlandish things to oval track stock car tires go get them around the corner. A broken wheel there at an inopportune time could be sort of interesting too. My question is intended to stimulate interest in something that we should, and sometimes do, take seriously. If it’s worth doing, it’s worth understanding. Thanks for the info. By the way, the tires are Michelin XZE2+ 275/70R22.5's.

I noticed something on our way back from the South Central Area rally yesterday. I had checked all of the tire pressures before I left, and they were all set to what was intended. A couple of hours into the ride home I noticed that one of the rear tires had actually built pressure to 1 pound above the limit for the tire and the wheel. That got me to thinking, hard as that may be. Everything that I read refers to the COLD pressures. I'm assuming that the limits on the tires and wheels make allowance for the expected pressure increase as the tire warms up to the expected temperature. I realize that this is more of a theoretical question, but does anyone have an opinion on how that is determined, especially since most of us don't use N2 to inflate our tires, don't always operate at sea level, and the difference in the maximum temperature and the cold temperature can differ due to conditions such as weight, relative wind and speed?

Thanks for the pointers about where or how to answer the questions. The reason that I asked about over-extending is simply because I've seen some reference to that in forum posts. Th e leveling system on my Discovery won't even work without the engine running, so I always have the engine running at high idle when leveling. I still occasionally get a low battery light if any of the jacks extend close to what I believe is their maximum extension. The batteries were in the coach when I bought it in June 2016. They looked new, but I have no way of determining that for sure. They are watered and the connections are cleaned regularly. The reason I was looking for the full extend length was simply for information purposes to understand the equipment. I come from a work background ,back when I had a job, where there are no unimportant questions regarding the equipment you operate, especially considering the disastrous results possible with incomplete knowledge.

This has probably already been covered and I'm just too technically challenged to find it. I have read in several threads references about something or other with the leveling jacks fully extended. Well, how in the heck do I know when the jacks are fully extended? There are also references about over-extending the jacks. Same question. On my Discovery, I will sometimes get a low voltage message, but don't know if that means they are completely extended. I also haven't seen any references anywhere that tell how much they will extend, though I don't think I would want to crawl under there and measure.

Guess it's time to start looking for the dough to get this done. I might have overdone it with showing the DW the film.

Thanks for the info. I showed my wife the dash film of motorhome having a blowout. She said I need to order one. Just don't believe that I'm capable, or have the facilities to do it myself. Not quite sure who I would trust to do a decent job. Camping World is generally not my first choice for anything.

One more idea. I recently inherited a Transcend mini cpap from my son when he passed away. I cleaned it up and took it to the folks that set up my Resmed system, and they used the same numbers to set up the mini. It has a battery pack about the size of a deck of cards that will power the cpap all night. Resmed has recently put out one of their own that is about the size of an electric shaver, but it's fairly expensive.

The main thing that brought me to the Safe-T-Plus idea was the blowout control. I've talked to a couple of people with gas motorhomes that swear by the system. Just haven't found one who had a DP. I've been rather remiss in getting the coach weighed. Right now, I'm making an educated "assumption" that I am not overweight and am using the Michelin numbers for the max weights for each end of the coach, using 50% of that to go into the chart. Haven't really started looking for a place to get the alignment checked yet, though I know I should. If you call someone other than a Spartan service center, you get some interesting responses, and I hate to drive several hundred miles to have the alignment checked. Same goes for having it installed.

I realize that this is an old string, but thought I would ask this here. Has anyone installed the Safe-T-Plus on a Fleetwood Discovery? If so, did it help the "wandering" much? Since I am not a great mechanic, who would you trust to install/adjust it?

As a fairly newbie member, I would like to say that there are many reasons why someone would be a one-time poster. Often it is the feeling that your question/comment isn't considered as relevant/worthy/intelligent. And sometimes they're not. But often the question is part of a learning process. After owning a 5th wheel for almost 20 years, I have found owning a diesel pusher motorhome a rather daunting, as well as expensive, experience. I suspect that I'm not the only one. Additionally, manners doesn't seem to be what they used to be. Add that to the failure that often happens in my case, sometimes the notifications don't work the way they are supposed to. Just saying.... By the way, back to the original intent of the string. A friend of mine bought a brand new Thor Hurricane about 27 months ago. They have successfully completed the grand total of 2 trips. And that includes the last one two months ago where they wound up having to get help moving the slide by hand, and having the rear ladder literally break off. I've heard other similar stories about the company. My Discovery has cost me more than a year's payments for maintenance in the 26 months that we've had it. That is with a Cornerstone extended warranty. However, I think that was due to lack of proper maintenance during the previous 6 years. Buyer beware. And now, since I have put my pfennig worth's in, I'm going to jump over to the proper section to ask anyone's opinion on the Safe-T-Plus system.

Thanks. I've thought about going in that direction. Also have to figure out if the Tire Minders would work with those.

What brand (or style) has been successful for everyone with the rubber support bushings. I've tried two different brands, (one from e-trailer) and when I walk back to check on them they are always hanging on the extension between the wheels. I've sort of given up on it, but know that's not the correct answer.

I don't remember turning off the rotary switches, though it is always possible. The end of the first week in June through the middle of August have been a nightmare scenario that has had me wondering more than once if I knew what I was getting into. I do know that US 287 between Memphis, TX and Amarillo is probably one stretch of highway I plan to avoid. I'll also be taking a very close look when it comes time to renew a roadside assistance plan, and I can tell you of at least one place you DO NOT want to have your motorhome, truck or skateboard wind up. The part of all of that that has come out of my pocket has definitely impacted our traveling for the rest of the year. That being said, I'm learning more every day. It took 40 years for me to learn what I know about military strategic/tactical airlift operations. Don't think I've got anywhere near that long to figure out the motorhome, but it's nice to have found a bunch of disparate people who are knowledgeable about this new area I've gotten myself into.

Thanks for the info. The motorhome has been in multiple shops in 2 states since the middle of June. This weekend is the first chance to take it out since the middle of June. Yesterday, while making sure it is ready to go, I noticed that I was showing 6.2 volts on the house batteries and 12.5 on the chassis batteries. That was plugged into shore power. Thinking that it should show more if it was charging, I started looking closer. In the electrical bay, there are 2 rotary switches labeled Inverter Disconnect. They were turned off. I turned them on and voila, the fans came on and I had 14 volts going to the chassis batteries and the feed going to the house batteries. It seems to me that I have read that it would always charge the batteries on shore power, period. I'm just wondering if mine is working as designed and what others see. Really looking forward to getting a look at the big tv in front of my steering wheel a little this weekend.

Should have done that to begin with. Magnum Energy True Sinewave 2000 series. I think M2000, but not there to look right now. I know they aren't 2012s.

I'm sure this has already been discussed, but, if so, I haven't been able to find it. With the inverters physically turned off, will the charger still charge the batteries when plugged into shore power. It doesn't on my Discovery. Just wondering if it is supposed to. Seems to me that I read somewhere that they would.

To stick my 2 cents in at the end of the discussion, I don't know if all of the American Coach products are wired the same, but I do know that the 2010 Discovery charges the house batteries first and then looks over at the chassis batteries occasionally to see if they need charging. If the chassis batteries need charging, the transfer relay will then send the charger power to the chassis batteries. That's part of what cost $2000 back in February, due to a previous owner burning up the Battery Control Center when the relay went bad and having the system jury rigged to allow the aux battery button to work. To test it, I plugged in and looked at each set of batteries. The house batteries showed 13.4 volts. The chassis batteries shoed 12.5. After making sure that everything the I could find was turned off, I left and came back with my trusty volt meter about 36 hours later. The house batteries showed 12.9 volts, and the chassis batteries shoed 13.4 volts, indicating to my untrained in all things electrical mind, that the chassis batteries were being charged by the converter. I also have been known to throw my maintainer on the chassis batteries to make sure. Unfortunately, at this time, I still haven't figured out where 99% of the electrical system is, where all of the fuses are, nor how most of the system works. But....I'll probably learn at least one small thing about it in the next few days, when the next glitch, or recurrence of the last one, comes around.

Electric. Maybe I've just been lucky.

Nope, just saying that I haven't had the problem on that year. I'll go back to sleep now.