richard5933

That will check everything forward of the pump, for sure, and it's what I usually do. Someone that runs off city pressure though might want to also test the lines from the city water inlet, and they won't be tested by using the pump.

Looks like mostly parts you can find at a good hardware store, except for the blue fitting. The blue one is available from etrailer.com, but they want $83.13 for it. It looks like RVTI has a similar one for only $15. The pressure gauge is a standard gauge which would be used on a compressor tank, and you can find it along with the other brass parts at a good Ace Hardware. If not here is a gauge on Amazon. The Schraeder fill valve on the end you might not find locally, but here's a link on Amazon for one. Good news though, if you just want to buy the whole thing it looks like RVTI sells it for only $20. You'll have to add your own ball valve if you want one though, but that would be easy. https://www.rvti.org/products/water-test-kit Here's the link to the video for anyone needing it:

Thanks. I missed that.

Do you know how old these batteries are?

The Toll Tag lanes aren't HOV lanes - are they? My impression when we were there last was that they were just toll lanes plopped in the middle of an otherwise toll-free highway for those willing to pay for faster transit.

There have been some rather cryptic posts recently from a few new accounts. In some ways some posts sound like they were machine generated, but it's really hard to know nowadays.

I do the same thing for these as I do the stink bugs - try and find every possible entry point and block it. After that a small battery-powered vac is your friend. Just remember to empty it immediately or you'll find a stinky mess.

Are you looking for a traditional lantern or something more modern which will light up an area? Lots of new options out there, so you'll need to narrow this down a bit so we can focus our recommendations towards your plan.

What brand are you getting? We bought ours directly from TireMinder at the rally in Gillette a couple of years ago, and my interactions with their customer service department since then have been great. These just screw onto the valve stems so no dealer is needed to install them. Or are you talking about something mounted inside the tires? In that case, you need to find a tire dealer in your area that you trust.

Can't explain it - it's obviously not the experience I've had. Mine ride much better than the Goodyear I had on our previous coach. So the bad tires were on the other guy's rig and not yours? Perhaps Tireman9 can chime in, but I suppose every company has had a bad run of tires at some time but that doesn't necessarily mean all their tires are bad.

That's a really broad paintbrush you're using there. I understand that you may have had a bad experience, but that doesn't mean the entire product line is bad. Lots of reasons for sidewall problems. My previous tires were Firestone FS400 and they were almost 10 years old when they were removed and had barely a hairline crack anywhere. My current tires are Firestone FS561 and I'm even happier with them than the FS400s.

Do you know how to measure voltage with a multimeter? Simple test instrument you can get at Walmart for under $20. If they are leaking from the caps, likely they were over filled or are over charging. You can check over filled by removing the caps and looking. The over charging part you check with a multimeter. If it's too high it will cause the water in the batteries to boil over.

Are you talking about the EFS card which is obtained through TSD? For that one, you have to contact TSD directly. EFS is just the processing company.

Where are they leaking? From the caps or from the cases somewhere else? If they are leaking from the caps, first thing I'd do is check to see if they are overfilled or overcharging. They should not be filled to the top of the filler neck, as this will cause leaking from the caps, and if they are being charged at too high a voltage you'll also have similar things happen. Have you confirmed the voltage they're charging at? If they are leaking from elsewhere in the case or lids, disconnect them immediately and carefully remove them from the coach while wearing rubber gloves. Batteries should never leak from the case. Ever. A leaking battery can cause lots of damage very quickly.

Glad that you're having continued success. These can be an annoyance, but usually pretty easy to solve. Eventually the rubber will get hard enough or old enough that you won't be able to stop the drips, so keep these hoses on your watch list next year. If you have any other reason to drain the coolant, that would be a prime time to change out any that are looking worse for the wear.

Welcome from Wisconsin!

Not sure that this is really outside possible for many people. I met a couple camping in a very nice Oliver TT last fall. They made a full set of covers for the trailer and accessories from Sunbrella fabric. She did the entire thing on her little 3/4 size vintage Singer she carries with her for doing her quilt work. From my conversations with her, it was clear that she's not the only one traveling with a sewing machine who could easily handle making a set of wheel covers. If someone doesn't sew, doesn't have a sewing machine, or doesn't want to do this themselves, then obviously they won't. Doesn't mean it's not a very practical project for someone else.

Guess it all depends on the sewing machine. At one time I bought & sold vintage sewing machines, restoring them along the way. There are lots of these old machines out there (Singer 15, for example) which could handle the task easily if the operator took his/her time. I sewed the folding top for our horse buggy with one of those when we were still driving a pair of horses for fun. On a newer plastic machine? Probably not, especially a low-cost entry-level machine picked up at a box store. Those have trouble putting a hem on a pair of blue jeans. My point wasn't as much to say that this is a project that everyone would want to do on their own as much as to say that it's not a complicated project and could easily be done by someone who wanted, provided like you said they had an appropriate machine.

I've got the Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X. It's more than made up for it's high cost multiple times already, including low voltage situations and one campsite where the breaker was failing. We also got the portable as protects our shore cord as well as the coach.

I've seen similar fabric for sale online. Shouldn't be that difficult to make a set of these if you're handy on the sewing machine.

For anyone thinking of getting on the road during the winter storm down south, this might be handy. https://cdllife.com/2021/heres-a-list-of-major-chain-truck-stop-closures-power-outages/

Do you want good or do you want to save a few RV units?

Binders, no binders, no matter. The tail of the trailer appears to me to be lower to the pavement than the rim of the trailer's wheels.

You might have both an electric pre-heat which runs off your 120v system, and a pre-heat built into your Aqua Hot system which can probably be run on either 120v or 12v, depending on how it's set up. This would give you options on pre-heating the engine depending on whether or not you're plugged into shore power. You don't need to run either unless you're planning to start the engine, and you have no need to start the engine unless you're planning to move the coach.

If your power has been coming on & off you may have had a power surge, in which case the unit may have given its all to protect your coach. The EMS should show E10 if that occurred though, so not having seen any error codes is somewhat confusing. Not sure about the bent plugs, but I'd be hesitant to run without an EMS, especially if you are still experiencing or expect to experience more outages.