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  1. If you look at the number of posts there are about tires in general you'll see that many people are confused about tires. In many ways. It's not limited to the discount program. Just the three data books I linked to have more information than FMCA could ever put in the pages about the discount program. The way the discount program runs is complicated, but the information you need is there. Will you need to do some research on your own? Yes, of course. It took about 30 seconds on Google for me to find what you needed. I, for onr, think that the only obligation FMCA has is to publish information about the discounts themselves. The specs on the tires changes often, and the only accurate information is that which is provided by the manufacturer. I get that you're frustrated. I understand that you don't agree with how this program is being run. But the snarky tone in a public forum is not helping, in my opinion. If you have a beef with Dan, then pick up the phone and call him directly. Certainly doesn't help build membership having private spats conducted on a public forum. About your last point... Just my opinion, but if someone is joining FMCA just to get a tire discount they are joining for the wrong reasons. This is not a discount club, it is a community of people sharing a common interest. Yes, the discounts are a great benefit, but nowhere near as important to me as the connections made with other members. If we were to make that a larger focus instead of pushing discounts members use once in a few years, I think we would be better off.
  2. While I'm at it, here is the Firestone book: https://commercial.firestone.com/content/dam/bcs-sites/bridgestone-ex/products/Databooks/TBR/Firestone-TBR-DataBook-08-07-2018.pdf
  3. https://blobs.continental-tires.com/www8/servlet/blob/545220/93cb217af08a6ad19f6abff9f3680838/continental-data-guide-data.pdf It's a big download, but everything is in there. Enjoy. Google is your friend.
  4. There is bare metal showing on the red wire going into the taped bundle. No doubt you have other messes in that box. Maybe some twist on wire connectors (a no-no in an RV). My first step would be those taped bundles and make sure that everything is properly secured with crimped connections. Under most circumstances, the neutral/ground bond should always be made at the source. For shore power, that's in the breaker panel feeding the pedestal. For generator use, that's inside the generator. And the chassis of the generator should be bonded to the chassis ground of the coach.
  5. I'm not sure why the beef is with FMCA. It took me all of about 15 seconds on Google to find the Hankook technical data book. It has all the specs on the tires, including load & inflation charts. https://hankooktire.com/us/files/technical-manual/HK_TBR_2019_Catalog_3rd_Quarter.pdf I see the situation as FMCA providing a member benefit with the discount program, but I don't expect them to be my tire dealer or technical support for the tires. That's the job of the tire manufacturers and their dealers. Or am I missing something here?
  6. Welcome to the FMCA forum. Sorry that your first post is about something which is so frustrating. Not that this will be able to change the poor past experience, but have you looked into getting either a small compressor to carry or checking to see if your coach already has a place where you can connect an air hose to fill a tire?
  7. Were you ever able to run both a/c units on the generator, or has it always had this issue?
  8. You replaced the plug, EMS, and transfer switch. Have you confirmed tight connections where the power lines connect to the breaker panel from the transfer switch? A loose connection there could be responsible for everything downstream. If that doesn't work, I'd be following all the main conductors to ensure tight connections wherever you can.
  9. Oh - now I get what you're saying. I could substitute another power source for my solar panels and let the solar charge controller work its equalizing magic. It won't care where the power comes from. My charge controller has a max voltage input of 150v, so I could use my 24v battery charger like you're saying and be able to do this anytime. Any thoughts on the 2 hours of equalization per month?
  10. Not sure what you mean. My regular charger is a Progressive Dynamics 9270, and it doesn't offer an equalize setting which is high enough to meet the 16.2v level Trojan recommends. How are you suggesting that I equalize using my regular charger? My solar charge controller and my regular 120v charger are connected to the battery bank parallel to each other so that either of them can be connected. When I use the solar charge controller I turn off the 120v charger, and vice versa when using the 120v charger.
  11. Our battery bank is made of four Trojan L16G six volt batteries, wired in series/parallel to provide 12v output. I've got a Trojan Hydrolink watering system installed to make watering the batteries easy. In reading the manual for the batteries, there are a few different recommendations for equalizing, and they all boil down to doing it either on a fixed schedule (ever 30 days) or when certain set points are reached with regard to specific gravity. The Hydrolink watering system caps are not designed to be removed once installed, and the manual comes with a warning about possible damage if they are removed. This would make checking specific gravity difficult without risking damage to the Hydrolink. So, I called Trojan today and asked what the recommendation was, and the tech said to equalize every 30 days for two hours and not worry about the specific gravity. My regular charger doesn't have an equalize setting, but my solar charge controller can do the equalization (obviously on a sunny day) in one-hour increments. Thought I'd tap into the community knowledge base here to see what others thought about doing the equalization on a 30-day schedule like this. I have no specific reason to question the tech's advice, but it just feels odd to do this without checking the specific gravity as I go. Would appreciate any thoughts on this process. (I am aware to have the batteries fully charged and topped off with water before doing the equalization, as well as to disconnect all loads from the batteries.)
  12. Welcome to the forum - glad that you're here. How exciting for you that you've got a new-to-you coach in the works! From the information you posted, it appears that the max towing capacity in your specs is 10,000 pounds for the trailer weight, with a limit of 1,000 pounds on the hitch itself. Of course, it appears from what you posted that there should be a sticker inside the coach itself with information more specific to your coach, including the UVW (unloaded vehicle weight). That should include everything except what you'll add when you load up all your gear. That said, you'll probably be best off getting an actual weight on the coach loaded the way you intend to travel AND with full fuel tanks. Once you know the actual weight of your coach you'll know more accurately how much cargo capacity is remaining before you hit the GVWR. I'm sure that others with more trailer experience will add comments as well, so stay tuned for more replies.
  13. Before you do anything with it though, be absolutely certain that the coach is properly blocked and safe to get under. Especially when working on parts of the air suspension, these things can drop suddenly with deadly results. It's not enough to jack up the axle and block the axle - you've got to properly support the chassis and body to keep it from coming down. All that said, why not just replace the leaking valve?
  14. What's odd is how hard it was to find the harness to connect to the thing. The controller itself was easy to find, but the harness took some effort. Hopefully the company I ordered from will ship promptly. I suppose that most people never need to replace the harness connector, just the controller. The harness connectors are probably sold only to manufacturers. I could have called Intellitec, but it seemed that my only time to sit and do the research recently is nights and weekends.
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