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rossboyer

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Posts posted by rossboyer


  1. We had the same problem. Ours was the wire type shelves with a rod below. I added a wood board 1"x2" as long as the shelf to keep the shelf from bending by using fender washers and screws from below in to the wood. Not only does this strengthen the shelf, the 2" high wood keeps items on the shelf. Also added 4 additional brackets to support the rod. All of the additional parts were available at a big box store.


  2. My Chevrolet Equinox also has the 20/22 gage wire. I soldered all connections and used shrink tubing to insulate and then wrapped all with plastic electrical tape to be sure. Diodes are the best way to avoid feedback and to not cut into the reflectors. Roadmaster has a power module maintain the voltage to the lights. Your wires from the towing vehicle connect to this module and a heavy 12 volt plus and ground. Probably, there are relays inside the module to turn on the lights.


  3. We are in AZ, and I do not have my camera with me; therefore, no, I can not post a picture. But it looks just like 16 inch square marble/ceramic tiles with 3/16 inch gray sand grout. The rows of tiles run across the coach and each row is offset from the previous by half a tile. Doing so eliminates the grout lines having to be perfect for the whole length of the coach. I do want to say this tile is just as hard to lay as ceramic tile, but the results look very good.


  4. I would encourage you to have supplemental braking. One in 5 that have ever towed has had a breakaway if for no other reason. The additional braking will help you on long downhill grades and emergency stopping. While there are many good braking systems, the best that we have used and now have is the Air Force One. I am sure that others will chime in about their braking systems.


  5. Each year I have saved enough to pay for my smart phone by using GasBuddy to find the lowest fuel prices near me. The GPS and routing functions better than the one in my auto. Weather forecasts for the cities I will be traveling through is great. I don't have to use by PC to check emails. The calendar function really helps to keep my appointments and to know my spouses calendar. My smart phone is my only internet connection which allows me to use it all across the country. I could go on and on, but I think you get the idea.


  6. We have a 2006 Expedition which may be a little different than your 2004. When we retract our slide that slides floor is about 1 inch above the floor of the coach. The slide only drops down to match the floor of the coach when it is fully extended. Based on your description and how ours does the same, I think this is the normal operation.


  7. We have travel in 14 degree weather using your same plan, except we went on to warmer location for 3 months before returning home. Do plan on stopping where you will have electrical hook ups, because you will need to run your furnace to keep the water bay warm. Don't risk running your batteries down. We added a trouble lite with 60 watt bulb to the water bay, and we have a remote temperature sensor there, too. The water bay holds 40-45 degrees no matter how cold it is outside.


  8. Also, the space heater(s) are on the floor where the coolest temperature is located. The heat strips add the heat at the ceiling and does little to warm the floor. We do not have heat strips, but do have heat pumps which are in the ceiling and efficient down to about 40 degrees outside temperature. To minimize LP gas usage we set the rear heat pump to about 74 degrees and the front furnace to 72 and have a 1,100/1,500 watt cube heater in the front of the coach. The front furnace doesn't cycle often if ever. We have traveled in outside night temps of 11 degrees using two 1,100/1,500 watt heaters running at full 1,500 watts all night and both furnaces on but cycling. Heat pumps are useless at that low of a temperature.

    I would buy a couple of cube 1,100/1,500 watt heaters with tip over safety vs. heat strips. It is easier to find replacement cube heaters than it is to find heat strip replacements.


  9. After changing the coolant, possibly there was an air bubble that caused the coolant level to appear to be normal; but after running for a while the bubble is gone and coolant needs to be added. After the engine cools down, suggest you check level again.


  10. Since you say the system will lift your front tire off the ground when almost level, you probably have an automatic system. Under the coach some where will be about 4 inch metal disk. Above the disk are 3 pointed electrical probes to sense "level". Below the disk are three adjustment screws, tighten the front one. Doing so will make the front edge higher causing the system to think that the coach is level sooner. As little a 1/2 turn may be enough. Just trial and error. You will have to cycle the system to test if level after each adjustment.


  11. If you have 50 amp load on one leg in your motorhome and 50 amp load on the other leg, the neutral wire will be trying to carry 100 amp load which is a major hazard for you. Also, I doubt that the campground has wired the neutral with #2 wire; therefore, the potential of having major neutral overheating in your coach and in the campground wiring is very great. I would ask to be moved to a site that is wired correctly.

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