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We have a 1997 Fleetwood Discovery. We have replaced the chassis batteries and now our Jacks will not work. The panel will not turn on.

I've got a leak on one of my leveler jacks. Symptoms were "jacks down" alarm. Also one jack was losing pressure / raising a little putting me unlevel once leveled. I figured out the alarm was due to the low fluid level, and the low fluid level is due to the leak between the shaft and housing (shiny thing and what it goes up into). I have an appointment to bring it in for service in a few weeks to REV Group in Alvarado TX. They are saying they intend to replace the part.... no quote, but I've seen the part for sale online for about $900. So, I'm probably looking at 1200 bucks by the time they upcharge and install. Any advice from you folks on alternatives? BTW- Warranty will expire by the time I get to Alvarado... by a couple hundred miles. My coach (2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U) was purchased NEW May 28, 2017 with 1,060 miles. I ASSUME the 15,000 mile warranty started when I drove off the lot so it would be good until 16,060?????? I'll hit about 16,300 or so by the time I make it to Alvarado.... can't bring it into service where I am at because we live in it.... we have a place to stay outside of RV in TX. Any advice on the warranty issue would also be appreciated. Picture of jack attached.

Hi all! We have a Bounder 31W with Power Gear jacks. We recently removed a huge electric security system that was draining our battery and now have trouble with the jacks going down. The parking brake is set, but the jacks won't go down unless the brake foot pedal is pushed down. It also makes a whirring sound, like some kind of gear turning maybe? Then in order to keep the jacks down you have to turn off the car and remove the key. Otherwise if you accidentally take your foot off the brake pedal they automatically retract. Any suggestions would be helpful. I've replaced fuses, and replaced at least one relay switch. Thanks so much!

My problem has now occurred twice, so I am hoping/expecting that others with a 32 foot Adventurer or Suncruiser, with a full wall slide out, have experienced the same problem. My problem is that the two adjustment bolts that hold the bracket for the roller on the middle slide out ram have broken. These bolt are not accessible without removing the slide out and some of the flooring. The first time they broke I was told that they did so because we did not use the slide out lock while traveling. This was true because during the walk through, when we took delivery of the unit, I specifically asked what was the slide out lock for and was told that it is there “to keep kids from playing with the slide outs”. So, since it had now become “our fault” we ponied up several thousand dollars and had the bolts replaced. But I was then concerned that the real problem was that it was not adjusted correctly. So after the repair I took it to a different repair shop (Winnebago certified) and asked them to check the alignment. For $140 they told me that it was “dead on”. 17 months later the bolts have snapped again. So I am pretty sure it’s a design flaw, but Winnebago will not admit it. So this time I want to repair it myself. My idea is to get the bracket in the right position and then weld a plate between the roller bracket and the bracket that holds the heads of the broken bolts. This can all be done without removing the slide. Of course the down side is that, after that, no more adjustment is possible. My thinking is that it should not have to be adjusted again and even if it did, I can incur the expense of removing the slide out then. The one hitch in the plan is Winnebago will not tell me how to adjust the roller brackets. The only provide information on how to make adjustments at the end of the rams where the slide out connects. I can move the middle bracket to be in the same plane as the two end brackets, but that presumes that both of the end brackets are in the correct location. There is a much longer story that strongly suggests that these bolt broke when the unit was driven from the factory to the dealer, so I have reason to suspect the end brackets are not in the correct location. Has anybody experienced the same problem? Any suggestions? PS It is very hard to detect this problem. Its first symptom is that the slide out is too low to open the outside compartments, However when the slide is out and you inspect the bolts they are jammed so close that the break cannot be seen. If you take it to the dealer they can make adjustments to the outside of the end rams so that the compartments will open. But the problem, will reappear. I found the problem only after I decided to make the adjustment myself and noticed that the dealer had snapped off the head of one of the bolts that attached the slide out to ram. I decided to try to remove that bolt so it can be replaced. So I cribbed the slide out, and imaging my surprised when the ram that was supposed to be support the slide out fell down after I removed that last bolt holding it to the slide out. Yes the slide out was holding up the ram that was supposed to be supporting the slide out. The two broken bolts were then easy to spot. So if any of you have experienced not being able to open your outside compartments and you think it got fixed you may want to have those bolts examined.

We have a 2006 Monaco Monarch SE SBD (34',Ford V-10, 27,000 miles) which we bought a year and a half ago. We had one issue last year where the levelers (Power Gear) would not retract but I called Monaco and the tech told me about resetting the system (hold all four arrow buttons for up to two minutes). That fixed the problem. Since then, we have driven about 6,000 miles with no leveling issues, at all until last month when we returned from a two week trip with two stopovers where we used the levelers at both locations and the system worked perfectly. When we returned home I parked the rig in its usual location and turned on the leveler control panel. It lit up in the normal manner but when I pushed "Auto" to level, nothing happened: no leveling, no noises, no partial extension, just nothing. I turned the system off and on, started the engine, set and released and reset the parking brake: still no levelling. I checked the hydraulic fluid; it was clean and at the right level. I tried Manual leveling: nothing. I let the rig sit for a few minutes and tried everything again... still no action. I waited 24 hours and did it all over again: still would not level, neither Auto nor Manual. I decided to leave the rig parked for a few days to see if that would fix things (I debated sacrificing a goat or a couple of chickens, too, but had none at hand). Then, when I came back to try leveling again, the control panel would not even turn on and light up, let alone level. I checked the 15-amp fuse which I' m told only protects the control panel. It was okay. I called Monaco and the tech said I should check the main fuse and the relay which are near the control unit in the generator compartment. He said the fuse/relay should be within 18" of the control box but I could not see them. I squeezed under the rig (a real s-q-u-e-e-z-e; I'm 6' and 250#) and looked around the control box/generator area but could not locate the fuse or the relay although it was pretty dark, even with a trouble light. RV shops out here (BC's Okanagan Valley) usually don't troubleshoot or repair, they just replace until something starts working again. I can't see escaping from there for under $500, perhaps even $1000, maybe more, if they start swapping out panels, control units, etc. We have an extended warranty with a good company (I did my due diligence and they did put in a new engine less than 2,000 miles after we bought the rig- long story, nothing to do with me) but it's a real hassle coordinating between a US warranty company and Canadian shops. It seems funny that the control panel lit up normally for the first couple of days into this mess but it just would not level. Then nothing lit up. I have a multi-meter and can check voltages, etc. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where the problem might be? I'm hoping someone might be able to give me some advice as Power Gear is incommunicado for troubleshooting their levelers. If you think it might be the main fuse or the relay, can you point me to where they are located, what they look like? I will squeeze back under again, but only as a last resort. Thanks for any help. Graham Stevens

The last couple of times I leveled my '05 Fleetwood Providence 39L with the power gear it picked the right rear duals off the ground. The strange part is that I was not on any thing close to a slope. What could be holding the body from leveling and not leaving the duals on the ground?

Hey everyone, I have a 2007 Bounder 38 ft and after a recent vacation the jacks refused to retract. I called roadside assist and they pushed two of them back in place (driver side) and had to tie the other two up ( pass. side). I took it to a local dealer to repair. It took the a month to repair stating Power Gear is slow to ship. The dealer only repaired the two that had been tied saying there was no way to tell the others were bad. Now they are telling me it will take Power Gear another two weeks to ship the second pair. I contacted Power Gear myself and they told me they manufacture the jacks to order and it does generally take two weeks. Has anyone faced this situation? Are there suppliers out there who stock Power Gear? Could my dealer have foreseen this and diagnosed problem with the second set of jacks and avoided this time delay? Anyone have any thoughts?