ricky5924 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 I have a 2001 Allegro Bus 40 RP. I am looking for disconnect switches to disconnect my house batteries and starting batteries while in storage, the only disconnect switch I have right now is a toggle switch by the door that reads 12V disconnect. Even if I turn it off, there is still a parasitic drain on the house batteries somewhere. I have tried plugging in to 15 amp service (also setting the invertor/charger to 15 amp supplied service), and have kept the batteries topped off with the Quick Fill system. I have also tried trickle chargers, etc. I always wind up boiling over the batteries, corroded cables, etc. Recently I have been disconnecting all the batteries when in storage which is really a pain. I have 4 12V house batteries and 2 starting batteries. I am looking for a way to totally isolate all the batteries when in storage. Any ideas appreciate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 You can install a mechanical disconnect switch like a Perko marine on each battery or bank. You will still have some drain just sitting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted July 30, 2017 The 12 volt loads for the coach are all the equipment modules that control the Refrigerator, Temperature control system, wireless entry system, remote slide control systems and the audio / visual equipment. The chassis 12 volt loads are the ECM and any other modules connected to the Closed Area Network system that monitors the drive train and leveling systems and even the clock on the Radio. How new is the coach? The newer ones have Control modules that store performance information and removing the battery power could mean driving for 100 miles to rebuild the base line information so it will pass state inspections or start driving properly again. Rich Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 ricky5924, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What converter or inverter/charger do you have? Quite possible it is a smart one and just needs to be properly programmed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky5924 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 1 hour ago, DickandLois said: The 12 volt loads for the coach are all the equipment modules that control the Refrigerator, Temperature control system, wireless entry system, remote slide control systems and the audio / visual equipment. The chassis 12 volt loads are the ECM and any other modules connected to the Closed Area Network system that monitors the drive train and leveling systems and even the clock on the Radio. How new is the coach? The newer ones have Control modules that store performance information and removing the battery power could mean driving for 100 miles to rebuild the base line information so it will pass state inspections or start driving properly again. Rich I have a 2001 Allegro Bus 40 RP Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky5924 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 1 hour ago, wolfe10 said: ricky5924, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What converter or inverter/charger do you have? Quite possible it is a smart one and just needs to be properly programmed. Thanks for the welcome. Its a Xantrex Freedom 2000. I took it to local RV shop, it is programed correctly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricky5924 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 1 hour ago, desertdeals69 said: You can install a mechanical disconnect switch like a Perko marine on each battery or bank. You will still have some drain just sitting. Thanks. I looked at those, just not sure which ones to buy. I want to be sure to get one heavy duty enough. My batteries have top threaded post. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 18 minutes ago, ricky5924 said: Thanks. I looked at those, just not sure which ones to buy. I want to be sure to get one heavy duty enough. My batteries have top threaded post. For the chassis batteries, I would get the HD Perko ON OFF switch which probably most closely follows the ratings of your engine start amp load. For house suspect the medium duty would be just fine. And, on your Xantrex inverter/charger, one of the "programmables" is ambient temperature (unless you have the optional battery temperature sensor that would have a telephone-type connection at the inverter/charger). If you don't have the temperature sensor, and the shop set it perfectly for winter temperatures, you WILL boil the batteries in summer temperatures. Said another way, setting temperature is something that you have to reprogram with the seasons. All done from the Xantrex remote following instructions in your Xantrex owners manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
