carneym Report post Posted January 6, 2023 (edited) I have a 2006 Sunseeker (2860) by Forest River that has been flawless on electrical...until recently. As a preface I replaced the deep cycle house batteries (x2) 6+ months ago. Suddenly, during the CHRISTmas holiday, I began having 12 volt power issues. I checked the battery levels and found that they were almost drained. I started the engine on the coach which began charging the house batteries, indicating the issue was with the converter which is an WFCO WF-8955AN model. Note that I am connected to shore power. After checking connections I checked the fuses and found a problem with 'one' (of the two) 40A polarity fuses. Now, the fuse was not blown. However, it showed signs of getting extremely hot on one side (the hot line side), melting the fuse casing on that leg. I removed it and replaced the fuse, the cooling fan immediately came on, I was getting full 12Volt power and the batteries were again charging. 24 hours later I began having the same problem. I went to pull the same 40A fuse to check its condition and a slight pull on the fuse brought all back online and the cooling fan immediately came on for a short period of time. Electrical is a puzzle to me because of lack of experience (so far :(). Can anyone experienced in this area advise me on how to proceed in finding the issue? Have an idea on what the issue might be? Edited January 6, 2023 by carneym Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dons2346 Report post Posted January 6, 2023 Welcome to the forum. I would remove all power and then take a serious look at the fuse holder. If the wiring is hidden behind it, get it so you can look at it. By you moving the fuse and restoring power, gives the indication of a bad fuse socket or loose wiring Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carneym Report post Posted January 6, 2023 Thank you dons2346 and will follow your suggestion once I get a utility light powered outside of the coach. I will provide a reply as soon as determination is made. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carneym Report post Posted January 7, 2023 I removed shore power and shut off 12Volt as well. Removed existing fuse and then plugged in only one side of the fuse to the problem side of the contacts. Found that there was barely any contact at all. However, also found that the particular contact is also loose on the board. Using needle nose I closed the grip points on the connector enough to get a tight fit while still being able to remove. I reconnected to shore power and noticed an immediate change. That is that I had power to the 12Volt devices and lights WITHOUT moving the battery switch to the on position. When this issue was occurring and I shut off 12 volt with shore power still connected, I lost power to all 12 volt systems. So at this point it looks like that was the primary issue. However, I am now looking for a replacement board while determining whether I will settle with re-soldering the subject contact versus replace. Problem is that if I take it out, and there are further problems that cannot be remedied I will be out of luck. Thank you for the input. It is greatly appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dons2346 Report post Posted January 7, 2023 Post up a picture of the board, someone here might be able to help find one or give a solution Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jwj4769@gmail.com Report post Posted January 7, 2023 Since it did not blow the fuse, it was not an overload condition. Your description sounds like an overheated problem. It sounds as if there is a high-resistance-contact (loose connection) at one side of the fuse holder. Where there is resistance on an electrical line, there is heat. Since the circuit started working when you touched the fuse, you caused a temporary reconnect. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carneym Report post Posted January 9, 2023 Per 'dons2346' suggestion I have attached a picture of the WFCO WF-8955AN converter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted January 9, 2023 On 1/7/2023 at 9:26 AM, jwj4769@gmail.com said: Since it did not blow the fuse, it was not an overload condition. Your description sounds like an overheated problem. It sounds as if there is a high-resistance-contact (loose connection) at one side of the fuse holder. Where there is resistance on an electrical line, there is heat. Since the circuit started working when you touched the fuse, you caused a temporary reconnect. I agree. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dons2346 Report post Posted January 9, 2023 In looking at the board closeup, I see a couple of problem areas.There are a couple of solder pads, one above and one below the black 40 amp fuse that appear to have been heated enough to melt the solder. I don't see any screws that mount the board but see what looks like a clamp at the bottom and looks like it is a push type so that the board can be moved. It looks like there is enough slack in the wires that if the board can be released, it could swing to the right. That way it might be possible to get a look at the back of the board and go from there. The numbers on the board don't tell much so finding a replacement might be hard if not impossible. Maybe the coach manufacturer could be a source depending on its age. If you are going to attempt to move the board, make sure all power is secured for safety Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
