Any Suggestions On Removing Glass From A Class A

[LivingLikeEachDayIsMyLast]

For the first time ever on any of my motorhomes, I have three large & one small double glass window fogged badly. My local glassworks will repair them only if I remove them from the coach. My wife & I would like to tackle this job & any ideas or recommendations will be appreciated. I am assuming that after I remove all of the screws from the inside, I will need to run some sort of thin blade around the exterior to break the seal. They are double pane sliding glass windows. Any ideas of what type of sealer will be needed to reinstall said windows.

Would it be simpler to install new windows than to have these repaired ? Also, my rig is not under a cover, therefore the hole will need to be covered during the process. I thought about using some type of plastic sheathing with duc tape around the perimiter. I'm reasonably sure it will take at least two people to remove & install the windows.

[JohnQFWB]

Try googling an oufit in Flordia call SunCoast

[tbutler]

Here is a discussion that has a number of references that may help you. Replacing windows in motor homes. Yours is not an uncommon problem. Shaking the double insulated windows can eventually break the seals and they have to be replaced.

[dwightginnyputzke]

I just finished redoing eight windows. Here's how I repaired my own windows. 1995 Bounder 35 U

Fog or Moisture in Double-Pane Windows -- Removal and Repair

The problem will be very expensive if not corrected in the early stages.

If the air-tight seal binding the two pieces of glass is compromised, the pressure differential between the glass caused by the sunlight and temperature variations will allow the window to breathe in and out, resulting in condensation with impurities forming on the inner glass.

The spacer inside the windows contains a desiccant to absorb moisture, but that will become saturated over time and the glass will become etched and finally become unusable. The sooner the window is repaired dictates the quality of the finished product.

Identify the window with a piece of tape. The moisture will come and go in the early stages.

The following is a list of what you will need if you are a DO-IT-YOURSELF person and would like to save $100 and more per double glass.

You will need:

• One or two step ladders tall enough to remove the window from the outside of the motor home.
  
• Power screwdriver with a torx #20 bit or a variable-speed reversing drill with a torx #20 bit. (I like to use a power tool to remove torx screws because you can push much harder to keep from stripping the heads.)
  
• Torx #20 screwdriver (for installing or removing screws ). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SCREWS
  
• Razor blade holder and extra new blades
  
• Ice pick or awl -- to line up the holes on reassembly
  
• 1 Small bottle of hand soap
  
• 1 Box cutter with sharp blade
  
• Isopropyl rubbing alcohol (to remove black sealer)
  
• Thin rubber gloves
  
• Protective eye wear
  
• Santeen or Rubbermaid lime & rust toilet bowl cleaner (used in attempting to remove some white etching from the glass) Rubbing compound and a power drill with a brissel brush can also be used in the mixture. (caution the splater is acid)
  
• Window glass cleaner, newspaper, and cloth towels
  
• A flat work table covered with an old blanket or towels
  
• Silicon or Caulking to reseal the window frame to the motor home exterior after the repaired window is reinstalled. (NOTE: Do not seal across the water drain slots on the bottom of the frame. Use air pressure yearly to blow dust and crud out of the bottom of all window slide channels and drain slots.)
  

Instructions:

1. Locate a local glass business that is equipped to reseal double glass windows with the correct spacer. Example: 3/16 Super Spacer.

2. Start with the least fogged window. (This will help with the decision of reusing the glass or having the glass company ordering one or both new pieces). Remove all torx screws from the inside window retaining frame.

3. Use a box cutter or razor blade holder to separate the silicone or caulking from the outside edge of the window frame. The caulking itself will be removed later.

NOTE: Before installing windows, the motor home manufacturer covered the bottom and halfway up each side of the window opening with a 1 1/2 inch wide sticky and thick black tape that has molded itself to the shape of the window frame.

4. Have a second person on a ladder outside the window to hold the window assembly as you begin to push outward from the inside starting at the top. The bottom of the window will stay in place until the top and sides are completely pushed out of the motor home, but it may take persuasion with dull knife blade or a putty knife or even a flat-blade screw driver to loosen it from the window frame.

5. Complete the window removal from the outside, remembering the assembly will be heavy and awkward as you step down off the ladders and carry the window to your work table.

6. Remove the old caulking from around the opening on your motor home with soapy water and a putty knife, razor blade holder or the edge of a credit card. Remember, the new caulking will cover the area, if you do cause a few scratches. Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol to do the final cleanup before covering the opening with a large trash bag held on with masking tape if stored outside untill the window is ready from the glass repair business.

A. Back at your work table, remove the four screws and retainer plate from the frame joint edge to separate it from the glass. The screw heads are covered with sealer that will have to be removed to use the #20 torx power tool. The thin black foam seal will have to be cut 1" away from the joint in the frame and can be glued back together later. If you have a frame with sliding glass, you have two more screws to remove from the center of the top and bottom frame edges.

CAUTION: The edge of the tempered glass will not tolerate any pressure of a pry tool directly against the glass while attempting to remove the frame. Use a piece of wood as a shim to protect the glass. Use air pressure to blow the dirt out of the window frame channels.

B. You will need your assistant for this step. Remove the problem glass from the frame and stand it upright on the shorter edge. Spread hand soap on the top edge of the glass and sealer holding glass together. Starting at a top corner, gently use a box cutter to separate the spacer from between the double glass. Keep the cutter blade parallel to the glass with cutting pressure against the spacer between the sheets of glass. Continue the soap and cutting procedure until you have separated the spacer from all sides and both pieces of glass. If the glass is a sliding window it will have a metal channel sealed to one edge and it will be the last piece separated from the glass. Not an easy task! Remember don't pry directly on the glass edge. Spread the two pieces of glass apart on the other end to help loosen the seal. (Use a small amount of clear silicone when you refasten it back on the repaired glass. AND DON'T INSTALL THE HANDLE CHANNEL FACING THE WRONG SIDE).

C. The old sealer must be cleaned completely off the face and edges of each glass. Use the razor blade holder and isopropyl alcohol on a towel to clean the edges. Use isopropyl alcohol generously and a new razor blade in the holder to carefully remove the old sealer from both sides of each glass.

D. Use protective eye wear & rubber gloves & Santeen (or Rubbermaid ) lime & rust toilet bowl cleaner & the razor blade holder & several "new blades" to remove as much etching as possible from each glass. (Used blades will scratch the glass)

Use glass cleaner and newspaper to finish cleaning the glass. (Always separate the glass with a towel placed carefully between each glass to avoid scratches.)

E. The glass and spacer are now ready to be taken to a glass company that is knowledgeable in repairing double-pane windows. Send a note with the glass stating you want the glass resealed with the etched side out. (After you reinstall the resealed windows you have the option of using an automotive wax to further polish the windows.

In 2010 my local glass company charged me $34 to reseal my 20"x30"x1/8" double glass with a 3/16" Super Spacer.

Our family has been a member of the Family Motor Coaching Association since 1964 and I sincerely hope that everyone using this information is or will become a member of this great group of people. Send me an e-mail at dsbsi@yahoo.com when you have finished your first window or need more information. Good luck and keep smiling with the money you will save.

Dwight

[LivingLikeEachDayIsMyLast]

Thanks Dwight, I enjoyed talking to you today. I now have the confidence to tackle this window job. Have a great day! Sincerly, Wayne & Deborah

[X05@verizon.net]

Hi Gang....

Should you decide not to tackle this project yourself.....

I had a few badly fogged windows repaired by Suncoast Designers in Hudson, FL in January of this year. They removed the large window on the passenger side (comprised of 2 glass panels and the slider glass panels), disassembled this unit, cleaned the glass, reassembled, and reinstalled. They also removed the driver's side top trap glass panel, replaced one side of the double pane glass, resealed and reinstalled. They usually can re-use the glass unless it has been etched beyond cleaning. The entire project cost me just under $400.00. BTW, another RV shop said all they could do is replace the entire window assembly, at a cost of over $3k!

For those travelling in from out of state, you can even camp in the mini-RV park; actually the parking lot with some limited hookups.

http://suncoastdesigners.ccwindow.com/

I would recommend them, with the following caveat:

Request that they leak test any windows they fix before you leave to head home. I did have one window leak which they took care of but I am fortunate enough to live just a few miles away.

Steve

1998 Winnie Chieftain 35' Ford Triton V-10 Gas-burner, w/2 slides

One Wife, One Rascal-Doggie

One 30 year old Triumph Spitfire toad (I bought the RV to tow the Spit, when it breaks down!)

[ts40phaeton03@gmail.com]

I have a 2003 Phaeton and just finished replacing a window in the large slide. You will probably have to take down

the valance, I had to/take the night shades down with it to eliminate other problems later). The only thing I did was removed the screws on the inside and carefully broke the seal/caulk around the top of the window. There probably is no sealer around the bottom. I got a good silicone caulk used it sparely and sealed the new one the same way. Sealing only the top and about 1/4 of the way down on each side.

One thing to be careful with is when you put the window back in and start to tighten down the screws be careful as you can twist these off easily. It was an easy job to do.

I would check with the factory and get cost on new windows before I paid somebody to rebuild them. Warranty etc

D.C.H. 2003 Phaeton

[LivingLikeEachDayIsMyLast]

I still haven't tackled this job yet, but I did notice today that the windows that are stained, are the ones with the screen in front of them. The non screen sides are clear as can be. Weather and health permitting, I will start this job at some point. Thanks everyone for your replies.