woodlodge Report post Posted December 14, 2010 While I was under the motorhome greasing it I noticed the the inside of the passenger front wheel had a oily residue on it. None of the other wheels had this, so I know it's not normal. Any ideas what it might be from and what I should do to check it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted December 14, 2010 woodlodge, welcome to the Forum. I see that you have a gas coach and I assume it is on a Workhorse Chassis. Hence Hydraulic Brakes. Your residue might be brake fluid or a front seal. Check your brake fluid level if it is low look for some type of leak. If fluid is OK look closely at the front seal. By you doing your own greasing you might be capable of changing out the seal yourself. This will give you a chance to clean inspect (replace if needed) your wheel bearings and seals. (Both sides). But who knows, a dog might have relieved himself on the wheel and the residue is road film. Good Luck, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 Continuing from Herman's post-- indeed the first thing you need to determine is WHAT is leaking? Several ways to tell what has failed: Smelling it. Does it have a strong sulfur odor? If so, it is likely gear oil. If a strong sulfur smell, do you have oil bath front wheel bearings? If so, a leaking seal is the likely culprit. Seal replacement is not something most do-it-yourselfers can do, as a dial indicator is needed to set bearing end play. Be sure to check hub oil level before even driving to a repair shop, as the volume of oil is very small and you sure don't want to have a bearing seize while driving. Can you determine the source of the leak? If the residue radiates from the center of the wheel, again it is likely to the bearing seal. If from a brake component (i.e. brake fluid), it will show a different source and as Herman said, the master cylinder fluid level will be low. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dalltop Report post Posted December 15, 2010 Remember though that the brake fluild level will drop as your brakes wear and you normally would not add brake fluid to the resevior. When brake fluid is low the brake pad wear should be checked. You can degrease the area and work the brakes while sitting still and reinspect for leakage. Brake fluid under pressure should leak while the unit is sitting still. Wheel bearing seals will sling while under way and if the bearings are not the oil bath type as stated above, they will need to heat a bit before that grease will warm up enough to check for leakage. I have seen the bearings done and on rigs our size you really need the right tools. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodlodge Report post Posted December 19, 2010 I've done some research and my chassis manual says I have oil bath bearings. From what I can find out I have to remove the stainless steel hubcaps to see the oil level. Since I have never done this (and this may be a silly question but I read someone ruined his hubcap), how do I do this and do I have to jack the MH up or not? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 19, 2010 Workhorse who built your chassis and speced and installed the wheels and center caps can answer your question about how to access the center of the front hubs. Because the volume of oil in the oil bath hub in measured in ounces (very little) I would NOT drive it until you have confirmed that your bearing have oil in them. Once the cap/cover is removed, you will be able to see a clear plastic hub. There will be a concentric ring marked "oil level". This is the level the oil should be at with the coach/wheels level side to side. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodlodge Report post Posted December 22, 2010 OK it finally warmed up enough here in Ohio for me to look at the MH. Found the problem I think. After removing the hub cap I found that the rubber plug that goes into the face of the plastic hub is missing. I checked the other hub and it is alright. Question is can I purchase a new plug at any auto parts store or do I have to go through Workhorse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 OK it finally warmed up enough here in Ohio for me to look at the MH. Found the problem I think. After removing the hub cap I found that the rubber plug that goes into the face of the plastic hub is missing. I checked the other hub and it is alright. Question is can I purchase a new plug at any auto parts store or do I have to go through Workhorse. Any parts house that deals with OTR trucks should have one. You may be able to have a regular auto parts house order one. You will need to copy down the name of the hub. Here is one of the more popular brands: http://www.stemco.com/Products/HubCaps/tabid/78/Default.aspx I would also recommend changing the oil in that hub several times, as dirt has likely entered the hub with that plug out. Look in your manual for the proper oil-- most take gear oil. I use a hand suction pump to remove the old oil, rather than the drain plug, as it can be messy if you don't remove the wheel. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClayL Report post Posted December 22, 2010 The oil used by the factory was SAE 90W, GL-5, however a WH tech told one poster who was having trouble finding it that SAE 80W / 90W, GL-5 could be used. He was also told not to mix regular and synthetic but I don't know exactly why that would matter. Since I don't know why I guess I wouldn't mix synthetic with regular oil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 22, 2010 If you are going to flush and fill a couple of times to make sure any dirt that got in the open plug is removed, you can go with either kind of oil. I flushed mine and went with synthetic-- front wet hubs and rear axle. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
