markt@applerubber.com Report post Posted March 20, 2011 My hydraulic cooling fan motor is leaking so I need to get it off so that I can repair it. While having a look at it while under the unit yesterday (changing my oil and filters), it seems obvious that I'll first have to remove the Fan from the shaft. It seems that from what I was able to determine, there's only one (Allen) set screw holding the fan onto the shaft. My question is, has anybody out there removed their fan and motor? Is it in fact just the one set screw holding the fan on? How difficult was it to get it off of the shaft? Once I get the fan off, it seems that it shouldn't be too difficult to remove the motor (famous last words! ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted March 20, 2011 Mark, You may need a pulley puller, but I have also worked on fans that pulled off rather easily after removing the bolts and those who have a threaded "puller" where screwing in a bolt breaks the fan loose. Check with your chassis maker or closely check yours out to see how it is built. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markt@applerubber.com Report post Posted March 21, 2011 Thanks Brett. I called Spartan to get their advice. They told me that (as I suspected) I probably wouldn't be able to use a gear puller, as the radiator is in the way. Of course, the motor can't be removed from the bracket with the fan attached. They confirmed my observation that there's only an Allen set screw holding the fan hub onto the keyed shaft of the hydraulic motor. They said that I should be able to (carefully) tap the hub off the end of the shaft without too much difficulty, once the set screw was loose. (We'll see about that!) They didn't seem to think that I'd have to bother disassembling the fan from the hub adapter (by remove the 6 bolts holding it on.) I guess that I could remove the set screw completely and squirt in some PB Blaster to help it along if it gets stubborn. They also emailed a drawing of the entire assembly so that I could see exactly what I'm dealing with. Another good suggestion that was made by someone was to set a piece of cardboard between the fan and radiator, just in case that fan slips upon removal and to avoid possible damage to the radiator. We'll see what happens when I get back down to the rig (still in storage) this weekend and try to get to work on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted March 21, 2011 Mark, Yes, protecting the radiator fins with cardboard (I cut two pieces that will overlap-- easier to get in and a little better protection. Duct tape them together after they are in place. And the best "penetrating" oil I have found is 50/50 ATF/Acetone. Dab it on a couple of days in a row and it really helps. A Q-tip often works well to get the oil where you need it. And when the fan is out, be sure to take advantage of the extra access and take a hose and flush the radiator fins from the engine-room side. Do the CAC from the outside as well. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dwightginnyputzke Report post Posted March 21, 2011 Brett Do you use your home made mix of 50/50ATF/Acetone only on jobs that you soak for a day or also on a jobs that you immediately take apart? Dwight Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted March 21, 2011 Dwight, I use it anywhere penetrating oil is needed. Have used in on the motorhome and most recently, on a remote Cay in the Bahamas to free up a stainless steel screw into aluminum base that had "welded" itself together (galvanic corrosion). I had ATF onboard and got a couple of ounces of acetone from a FG boat builder. Mixed it 50/50, applied it several times over a few hour period and the screws came out. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cre38sse39 Report post Posted June 25, 2016 wolfe10, I have the same problem and are waiting on a new motor. How do you purge the air out of the system? So far your info is very helpful. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 25, 2016 cre38sse39, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are quite a number of different ways these systems can be plumbed. On many, they are self priming once the reservoir is filled (pump fed by gravity from the reservoir). Check with your chassis maker to verify how your system is laid out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted June 26, 2016 Brett. That's the joy of being on the Ocean Blue! 2 different metals and no sacrificial lamb... Carl C. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
