bairman Report post Posted May 10, 2011 We have Dometic 2 door side by side installed in a slide. When we first got the coach it would not get cold at all. We took in for service and they determine that the factory had not installed proper insulation so it was re done and seemed to work OK although it takes at least 24-36 hours in Phoenix summers to cool down. The problem we have since new is that when traveling the refrigerator side will go from 38 to 52 by the time we stop at the end of the day. I checked with Dometic and they said to check door seals and thing like that, which I said doesn't make sense since it works fine when not traveling. I did meet a fellow RV'er who had the same issue with his coach and said he had two fans installed in the lower air vent with a switch to turn them on when he starts to travel and said he has had no more problems. Has any body experienced this? What type of fans would you use and how would you install them or would you leave that to a tech? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted May 11, 2011 If you are going to install fans, they can be 12 VDC muffin fans. But it is far better to install then at the TOP of the cooling unit exhausting UP. They can be wired to a switch or thermostat. And things like door gasket, plug in refrigerator condensate drain, etc should be checked. Anything that adds to the heat load will only manifest itself when the cooling unit is working the hardest. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest BillAdams Report post Posted May 11, 2011 I assume you are using propane to operate the fridge. I also assume you have checked that the gas is working while traveling (check as soon as you stop, of course). Does it work the same way whether on gas or electric? If you have an inverter you might try running the fridge on electric while traveling to see if the same issue exists. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bairman Report post Posted May 11, 2011 Thanks for the comments. Dometic said the unit come with extra fans because of the problem of negative air pressure while traveling and explained how to test to see if they are working. I will check the gaskets to see if they are tight and making a good seal. So you think if I put fans on to put them at the top just below the vent to draw the air over the cooling fins? It always happens while we are driving and the unit is on LP gas. I will try running on electric and see what happens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted May 11, 2011 Thanks for the comments. Dometic said the unit come with extra fans because of the problem of negative air pressure while traveling and explained how to test to see if they are working. I will check the gaskets to see if they are tight and making a good seal. So you think if I put fans on to put them at the top just below the vent to draw the air over the cooling fins? It always happens while we are driving and the unit is on LP gas. I will try running on electric and see what happens. Yes, the fans go at the top of the cooling unit. Often removing the roof vent allows easy access to that area. If in a slide, remove the upper vent to access. Also, pull out your refrigerator's installation guide. A lot of RV manufacturers do a terrible job with air flow through the back of the compartment. One of the big no-no's is to leave a large space above the refrigerator-- hot air can be trapped there and significantly reduce cooling efficiency. The installation guide gives good min, max and recommended clearances. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bairman Report post Posted May 12, 2011 That was the original problem with the unit. The service center worked with Dometic to make sure the insulation on the top (there was none) was installed properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bairman Report post Posted May 23, 2011 Yes, the fans go at the top of the cooling unit. Often removing the roof vent allows easy access to that area. If in a slide, remove the upper vent to access. Also, pull out your refrigerator's installation guide. A lot of RV manufacturers do a terrible job with air flow through the back of the compartment. One of the big no-no's is to leave a large space above the refrigerator-- hot air can be trapped there and significantly reduce cooling efficiency. The installation guide gives good min, max and recommended clearances. Brett Again thanks or your help. I contacted a local RV repair shop in Phoenix and he agreed with you that the fan need to be on the top and he has done many of these installations for around $200.00. He said this will include checking insulation and factory installed fans. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bairman Report post Posted June 13, 2011 If you are going to install fans, they can be 12 VDC muffin fans. But it is far better to install then at the TOP of the cooling unit exhausting UP. They can be wired to a switch or thermostat. And things like door gasket, plug in refrigerator condensate drain, etc should be checked. Anything that adds to the heat load will only manifest itself when the cooling unit is working the hardest. Just wanted to let you know that I found a great RV service center in Phoenix called Kiss my RV who said they had worked on many units with this problem and could fix mine for around $200.00. They removed the refrigerator and checked the insulation, check the temperature setting and lowered a few degrees, clean and adjusted the LP burner and cleaned the exhaust vent for the LP gas. They installed a muffin fan at the top with a 100 F temp relay and a on/off switch and then tested the unit. On a 100 F day they got the refrigerator to 38 F in 8 hours, this normally took me 24 hrs before. Although I haven't had the opportunity to test on a long highway trip he assured me this will solve the problem. Also the total bill was $138.00 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
