gmoreno Report post Posted March 2, 2012 So I have two questions about LP water heaters. First, I was leafing through a back issue from one of my FMCA magazines and stumbled across an article about replacing the anode in my water heater. I think I missed something in the article...but I have a newer LP 6gl hot water heater (Atwood). The article seem to refer to replacing the anode if you own an older MH or have a MH that is fitted with a suburban water heater. So, am I in the clear? Do I need to do anything with my water heater? Do I even have an anode in my water heater? I've done nothing to the water heater by way of maintenance since I purchased it new two years ago. I'm the original and only owner. I've got about 8k miles on it. Professionly winterized for two seasons. I own a 2010 35' Class A, V-10, Damon. Secondly, is it possible to replace my existing 6gl water heater with an on-demand/tankless water heater? If so, what brand name should I consider? Should I consider a tank designed for MH use or purchase one from my local box store? What size would I need? Would it fit where the current water heater resides? Do these tankless systems live up to the hype? Do they work on LP or electricity? Both? Can someone do dishes using nice, hot, sudzy water and another person take a prolonged, hot steamy shower without worry of running out of hot water? I also have an outdoor shower that I use to bathe sea sand and muck off the kids and dogs. I travel with my wife and two kids (3 and 6) and a couple of dogs. So we use a fair amount of hot water; especially when staying at a campsite. Thanks guys for any advice you can share. Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted March 2, 2012 I can address the first of you questions. Age of water heater is not a factor. Atwood water heaters use a nylon drain plug/no anode. Suburban water heaters use an anode. Both should be periodically drained and the precipitated minerals flushed out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted March 2, 2012 How handy are you? It requires adding, removing some of the steel and wood with the plumbing changes. The good part is the opening in the outside left by removing the current unit is real close.Good to check the opening to see if the mounting flanges are close to the same dimensions and that the cover / access door will cover the work sight so you do not have the added cost of reworking the outside skin. An on demand water heater can be installed in most cases. You will need to look at where its located and how you might modify the the area to mount it. Nice thing is you will never run out of hot water, but its easy to fill the gray tank quickly !!!! Think I have some mounting information in my hot water heater file. If you are interested I will look and see if I have a link for the details. R.M. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites