GeraldScott Report post Posted July 21, 2012 Everything electrical in my 2000 Monarch operates fine, except when I turn on the Fridge then the GFCI trips. I am plugged into shore power (50A) with proper polarity. It does't matter if other appliances (ie AC units) are on or not. Any ideas? The refrigerator works fine on LP. Gerald Scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted July 21, 2012 Try running an extension cord from the fridge to something like the pedestal outside or another plug on a different circuit. If you still have an issue you have a big issue. If the issue disappears you may have a faulty GFCI or an issue downstream of the plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted July 21, 2012 Bill gave you good diagnostics. It is not uncommon for the 120 VAC heating element in the refrigerator to make contact with part of the coach ground (refrigerator metal). That will (and should) trip the GFI. Sometimes, just moving the heating element will remedy it, sometimes it has to be replaced. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeraldScott Report post Posted July 22, 2012 Thank you Bill and Brett. I have ran an extension cord to a non-GFCI recepticle and the fridge runs perfect. I also connected to another GFCI circuit and it tripped it also. From these results I surmise the problem lies either in the fridge circuits or a faulty/weak GFCI. For Brett, I checked and could not find any obvious chassis ground problem as you suggested. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted July 22, 2012 If the refrigerator tripped not only your built-in GFI, but a second GFI, that suggests that there is a problem with the heating element-- likely grounding to the refrigerator flue. Said another way, very unlikely that two different GFI's are bad and refrigerator heating element good. Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted July 22, 2012 I agree with Brett. If the second GFCI was on a completely different circuit from the first then you need to be looking toward the fridge as the source of the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeraldScott Report post Posted July 23, 2012 Once again, thanks to Bill and Brett. I have eliminated all sources of a ground fault that are repairable by a novice. The problem is with the fridge itself. I will today once again check the grounding of the heater to the flue. after that I will seek a professional in the Chattanoga, TN area. Lee Smith Co. is my preferred repair facility. Their RV repair is second to none. Thanks again for your invaluable advice. Gerald Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chucknewman Report post Posted July 28, 2012 "It is not uncommon for the 120 VAC heating element in the refrigerator to make contact with part of the coach ground (refrigerator metal). That will (and should) trip the GFI." I would agree if the heating element is defective by leaking current to ground. But it is a sealed unit like that in an electric hot water heater, and the outer tube encasing the heating element should normally be at ground potential. At least for my Norcold heating elements I recently replaced, they are sealed and not an exposed resistance wire type heater element that would have exposed voltage potential. Gerald, my Norcold 1200 has two heating elements, both have what appears to be 12AWG wire going to the circuit board. On my refer one wire is yellow (line 120vac) and one wire is black (line ground) for each element -- four wires total. First unplug the AC cord for the refer. Then pull the +12vdc wire from it's spade connector on the circuit board. Disconnect the hot and ground heating element 120vac wires from the circuit board spade connectors and check with an ohm meter on a high range from one element wire at a time to refer ground point on the back of the unit. Make sure the other pulled wire(s) is not touching anything. It should read infinite resistance (open circuit). If you have a reading the heating element(s) needs to be replaced. If you get no reading (as you should) from the above test, you may have a "current leak" to ground on or behind your circuit board. Unscrew it and check the top and botton (trace side) for dirt, moisture, dead bugs, etc. Also look for poor solder joints and any bridging between circuit traces of solder, residue, etc. Brush clean and follow with compressed air if available. "I also connected to another GFCI circuit and it tripped it also. From these results I surmise the problem lies either in the fridge circuits or a faulty/weak GFCI." It is doubtful you have two faulty ground fault receptacles (GFR). If no shorts to ground exist on the above heating element testing, and no obvious issues while viewing the circuit board, the board, power cable, and plug will have to be tested to determine the location of the short. Keep in mind this is not a "direct short" to ground that would trip open the 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker. GFR's will trip open with currents to ground as low as 7 to 10 milliampers (.007 to .010 Amp). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeraldScott Report post Posted August 9, 2012 To all poster's. I have had the heating elements replaced at Lee Smith Co. The elements (2) were bad. The new elements have cured the problem. I learn daily how valuable this Forum is. I really appreciate all responses. Thanks again to all, Gerald Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mdouglass55 Report post Posted August 9, 2012 I had the entire cooling unit replaced in January and while traveling down the road the fridge stays cold. But when we stop overnight, the fridge warms back to 45 or 50 and we have had to throw out a lot of food. It now works well on LP, but not so well on electric. We replaced the 12-volt fan to pull the hot air from the coils out, but the new fan runs continuously, 24/7. We just started a new non-profit to educate the RVing community on traveling with disabilities, but we are limited on using the RV due to the fridge issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted August 9, 2012 mdouglass55, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is no reason for that kind of performance from any RV refrigerator in good condition. What make and model do you have? Is it in a slide? Do you have the auxiliary fans at the top of the refrigerator outside compartment exhausting UP? Have you tested the 120 VAC heating element(s)? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted August 9, 2012 If you need to travel you can always just leave the fridge on gas and your trip will not be interrupted. In the meantime I would be looking at the heating element as the most likely cause of your problem. This unit is designed to do what an open propane flame does and if it is not heating properly you will have very poor performance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SR101 Report post Posted September 29, 2012 Hi, SR101 here. I have a problem with a Norcold refrig #982 model. A code of c-4 appeared. Now, it does not get as cold. Can you help? Thanks. SR101 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
