dceramic Report post Posted July 28, 2013 We have a 2011 36R bounder. It now has 16k miles on it with 7k of that driven back to the factory for repairs. The main issue is the dash board (spring-board) each time crossing expansion joints on the highway rattling you and anything and everything right off of the dash board. We have had many discussions with Dealers , Fleetwood etc... to no avail. Our trip to the factory even included a break in the windshield while driving ... We feel the END CAP is coming lose and twisting (driveways ...fuel ) ... This problem along with other NEW ness issues we are working thru but isn't 16 months long enough to straighten this out..??? Any help out there is greatly appreciated Dennis and Heide Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted July 28, 2013 Hi Dennis, Welcome to FMCA! Could you attach pictures of the corners where the dash meets the wall on the drivers side and passenger side. Also one of the area just in front of the passenger seat. The corners of the dash should not move. I do have an idea of what that problem my be, but pictures would help. I suspect the corners will up and down without much force. Regarding the windshield, they mount into the front fiberglass cowling with the rubber seal and float for lack of a better term. This lets the cowling flex while still holding the glass in place. The number of pictures that one can attach is limited so lets start with the dash. If you click on my name tag a window will open and there is a (send me a message box), click on it and you can send me a private message. one can attach pictures to this message also. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted July 28, 2013 I had a Fleetwood product that the body came loose from the frame and was bouncing up and down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dceramic Report post Posted July 29, 2013 Thanks so much for responding.. I was out this am and was greeted with two messages. thank you... Ok Our Bounder seems to rattle apart the distance you drive and roll over the expansion joints on the hyw's .. we were invited to go to Decatur to be repaired and the trip alone brought out a BROKEN windshield during the drive (at the sun shade top center about 24 in long ) but most other repairs done on we go to go home 2250 miles back and guess what more stuff.... popping those screws again Dennis and Heide Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted July 29, 2013 Dennis, got your PM and information And you name. With the help of the other members of FMAC we will work on your issues together. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dceramic Report post Posted August 4, 2013 Good day to all . I am not very familiar with the HOW TO , but here goes, Our 2011 bounders dash board reflects-intensifies all road noise coming thru the frame of the chassis . So bad is this that the bulkhead bolts /screws pop out the longer you drive on American Hwys. The problem is the EXPANSION joints ... when driving back to IN for repairs (invited by Fleetwood) it just got worse and worse. Then the drivers front windshield broke at the top center shaded area... no rocks, it just popped... nothing abnormal has been done to this coach. Had it put back together ( they say) repeated attempts have failed. Is this normal - did I miss a college class or something here???? I even took a few videos of this - of course all unplanned but it does show the rattling...We are at the WITS END of this and need to make some intelligent decisions rather soon. Help help ------- emails are very much appreciated. Dennis Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted August 4, 2013 How much air do you have in your tires, are they inflated to the tire mfg specs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dceramic Report post Posted August 4, 2013 Oh yes the Proud Workhorse guy spent a couple of days talking and looking for answers - Tires @ 80 psi based on weight ratio and front to rear balance which is 88% at the frt axle and 91% on the back and based on the Workhorse travel chart, which we never knew of nor received, Our tire pressures were only 5lb to high--no biggie from the Workhorse guy... and we spent the afternoon at the Les Schwab dealer doing a dial indication of High / low spots on the rim and the tire highest to break down and rotate the hi /lo spots counter acting each other ,1/8 plus and 1/8 minus .... bottom line ... no change Mfg. air max is 95 psi but the Fleetwood sticker inside is 85 psi . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
desertdeals69 Report post Posted August 5, 2013 Have you weighed the axles? The correct inflation is set by weight according to the tire mfg inflation table. The sticker pressure in the coach is not always correct. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dceramic Report post Posted August 5, 2013 Oh yea the Workhorse guru explained and we did. 87% frt and 91% rear, all said and done ended up with 85 lbs. from the TABLE. Real issue is ???? Who has had a bounder with the same road noise coming right up through the dash (speaker) . I know that riding across expansion joints creates noise , but would you think a muffled rumble is more like OK rather than a cup of Joe ending up on the ceiling after the startling BANG BANG . Fleetwood has been in design for this type (bounder) for well over 25 yrs. and they now are just realizing they have a ride issue with the dash ,,,, "Comon man",,, when a dash is literately attached to the FRAME what are you going to hear??? It sure is not normal conversation or rock and roll... Any body out there with a quite Bounder with a Workhorse 8.1 , I venture not. Your help is most appreciated. Dennis Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sandyhepburn Report post Posted August 5, 2013 I've never seen axle weights referred to as a percentage before - I'm assuming those percentages are related to the GAWR on both axles? Our 2007 Bounder 35E, while it does have some rattles while driving, is certainly not objectionable, and it's entirely possible to carry on conversations in a normal tone of voice while we're driving. I've seen reports of the metal framework that the dash is attached to coming loose from the chassis due to broken welds - but that seems to cause air leaks and "floating" dashes rather than amplified sound. In any case, have you checked ALL the welds connecting the superstructure to the chassis? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bestbums Report post Posted March 26, 2014 I just saw this post and realize you may have already solved your issue, but... We own an '08 Gulfstream 8295 on a W20 chassis. The front end has a lot of weight due to opposing slides up front. The axle is rated at 7500 lbs. and we have weighed in at 7400 on the front axle loaded for a trip. The front end used to slam up on every expansion joint for bridges or potholes. The dash seemed like it was going to come off in our laps. The previous owners put Koni FSD shocks on the front in place of the Bilsteins. A mistake I think and didn't solve the issue. I ended up putting Firestone airbags on the front axle. This solved the issue. The stock axle bumpers only had less than an inch of clearance before they struck the axle. The airbags gave me about two inches of clearance so the stock bumpers don't bottom out. They also improved the ride. The front end feels like the ride is being handled by the airbags first and not steel springs. I only use 35-40 psi (100 psi max limit) and they were worth every penny..Just a thought. They also work like quasi sway control when plumbed with individual lines. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted March 26, 2014 bestbums, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Thank you for posting the information! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rpoole1025@gmail.com Report post Posted June 7, 2014 Take a look at the link. I have a 2006 Fleetwood Southwind 37 ft. on a Workhorse chassis. Read the information in the attached link. My walls of the coach move, not the dash. The screws they describe are in a black plate under the hood on both sides at the outside wall. Sure enough, I looked and several screws were missing on both sides and the supports under the coach described in the link have a bend at the end of the angle iron. The triangle shaped bracket discussed can be seen looking in the front wheel wells in front of the tires from the frame up to the bottom of the floor area. I am currently installing the screws back in the plates under the hood. Hopefully this will fix the problem. http://bobsguides.com/dash-movement.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
