MadHungarian Report post Posted January 19, 2014 The trailer hitch on my Class C looks a little whimpy, and I was wondering if anyone had a source for welded class V hitches in the Nashville area. Any help would be appreciated... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhartjim Report post Posted January 20, 2014 What is your Class C rated to tow? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadHungarian Report post Posted January 26, 2014 What is your Class C rated to tow? Unknown, but I'm sure it would be able to legally tow a flatbed trailer. I gave up trying to find someone to purchase a hitch from... I procured some box tubing and some 3/8" plate, plan to start fabricating the new hitch after we get back from Road Atlanta. Gotta be stronger than 2" angle and the solid rod the old one is built with.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhartjim Report post Posted January 26, 2014 Not necessarily. 2" angle maybe stronger than the box tubing. How will you attach the trailer hitch to the mh? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted January 26, 2014 Looking at the picture of your RV I know that the frame can handle 5,000 lbs or more towing. But with the added weight of the motorhome that reduces what the drivetrain and brakes can handle to a level as flat towing a small car. That may be the reason for the whimpy hitch. It would be best to weigh your motorhome to get the gross vehicle weight fully loaded as you would travel then look up the Gross Combined allowable vehicle weight and subtract the difference. That would be the amount of weight you can tow. My previous 34' 5.9L dp couldn't tow more than 4,000 lbs because it would exceeded the combine weight of drivetrain and brakes. I wouldn't dare exceed it because I know I would be out of luck if there was an emergency stop or being able to handle a steep grade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadHungarian Report post Posted January 27, 2014 Not necessarily. 2" angle maybe stronger than the box tubing. How will you attach the trailer hitch to the mh? I'm going to do all the hitch fab work and welding in the shop, then weld the hitch to the frame. The angle iron is two inch, but it's only 3/16th's, with the cross braces bolted to angle iron on either end. I do metal fab work all the time at work and do roll cages, etc. at the shop here at home. Trust me, if you saw this cobbled-up mess of crap you'd see what has me worried....... Looking at the picture of your RV I know that the frame can handle 5,000 lbs or more towing. But with the added weight of the motorhome that reduces what the drivetrain and brakes can handle to a level as flat towing a small car. That may be the reason for the whimpy hitch. It would be best to weigh your motorhome to get the gross vehicle weight fully loaded as you would travel then look up the Gross Combined allowable vehicle weight and subtract the difference. That would be the amount of weight you can tow. My previous 34' 5.9L dp couldn't tow more than 4,000 lbs because it would exceeded the combine weight of drivetrain and brakes. I wouldn't dare exceed it because I know I would be out of luck if there was an emergency stop or being able to handle a steep grade. I think we'll be good - my 18 foot flat trailer weighs in at about 890lbs, and the race car only weighs 2450, so we should be well within what the rig would be capable of towing. Plus, both axles have brakes, so stopping shouldn't be a problem. I try to avoid steep grades if at all possible...... harder going up with this rig than it is going down, and we live right next to the Cumberland Plateau and have to cross it to go East. Anyone who's been on the I-40 East going towards Knoxville from Nashville knows the stretch of road I'm talking about....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhartjim Report post Posted January 27, 2014 I don't know what year your C is but if it is computerized be cautious welding on the frame. You might consider disconnecting the battery/batteries at the very least. I trust the trailer will have an auxillary braking sytem also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadHungarian Report post Posted January 28, 2014 I don't know what year your C is but if it is computerized be cautious welding on the frame. You might consider disconnecting the battery/batteries at the very least. I trust the trailer will have an auxillary braking sytem also. Luckily, the only electronics in this thing is the module in the HEI distributor, and I always disconnect the battery on stuff before welding. And yes - the trailer already has a breakaway box installed. Can't be too safe ya know..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
