Refrigerator problems

[CGRAVES]

Normally I keep the motor coach pluged in and the refrigerator running. Recently I unpluged and parked the motorhome on unlevel ground for two days. The refrigerator has not worked since.

Have checked all four fuses and has 120 volts to unit. The gas burner burns in gas mode but does not cool. Is there a magic button somewhere?

Thanks Robert

[wolfe10]

Normally keep coach plugged in and ref, running. Recently unplugged and parked on unlevel, ground for two days, Has not worked since.

Have checked all 4 fuses and has 120 volts to unit. The gas burner burns in gas mode but does not cool. Is there a magic button some where.

Thanks Robert

Robert,

The critical question is did you just store it "out of level" or did you run it out of level.

If it was run out of level, it is quite likely that the cooling unit has enough blockage that it (or refrigerator) will have to be replaced. "Out of level" specs are stated in your refrigerator owners manal and vary a little, but basically boil down to "if YOU as a human recognize an out of level condition walking in the interor, it is out of level enough to affect the refrigeator cooling unit"

All absorption refrigerators have a warning against running out of level for this very reason.

Factors to consider in making the decision between cooling system replacement and refrigerator replacement are AGE OF REFRIGERATOR and whether you can/will do the labor to change out the cooling unit or will be paying someone to do it.

Brett Wolfe

[tbutler]

If you reach the point of replacing your refrigerator, one option you may want to explore is to abandon the absorption refrigerator in favor or a household refrigerator. This of course will require a larger electrical supply which may not work with your motor home. I have read of others who have done this. Newer high end motor homes are coming from the manufacturer with household refrigerators.

The replacement refrigerator will be much less expensive than the absorption model. Since the household refrigerator won't run on gas, the refrigerator would have to be off during travel or have a battery supply with an inverter to power it during travel. One thing proponents say is that with the household refrigerator, the better insulation keeps the interior colder so the need to have constant cooling is less. Also, the compressor is much more effective at cooling and so it will cool the refrigerator much more effectively than the absorption process. I have a friend who did a bus conversion and used only household appliances. He has no problem traveling for days with his refrigerator.

Our refrigerator is nearing the end of its useful life and I am making plans to replace it with a household model. I have plans for moving the chassis batteries to the engine compartment and using their current location for additional house batteries. We have recently replaced our inverter with a larger model capable of supporting a household refrigerator. When our current house batteries (in their 3rd year) and chassis batteries (6 years old now) reach the end of their useful life, I'll make the change in batteries. An additional 2 house batteries, 6 total, are sufficient to power a 3000W inverter which will operate a household refrigerator.

I haven't started searching for a suitable refrigerator but have read on other sites of models that some are using. Considering the cost of replacing the absorption refrigerator and its limited operating parameters, I think that a household refrigerator is a viable alternative for motor homes.

[freedom11_08@yahoo.com]

Hi:Regarding your problem with your refrigerator: many years ago, (more than 20), I ran an appliance repair shop and had some positive results with absorption refrigerator repair. If a unit such as yours came in , I would remove it from the RV , after safely disconnecting the gas and electricity,and simply turn it upside-down, leave it inverted for about a half hour, turn it rightside up, leave it for about a half hour and repeat. This process allowed the ammonia and other components in the sealed system to re-mix as well as clearing any minor restrictions.

I can't remember how I learned this "trick" but I remember having a reasonable success rate. Once you have inverted it two or three times, reinstall it and test the operation. (making sure it is level). It didn't work every time but it won't cost you anything to try it.

Hope this helps.

[tbutler]

If this method works, I want to hear about it!

[wolfe10]

If this method works, I want to hear about it!

IF this works, it is generally a short-lived fix.

The coolant (water, ammonia and rust inhibitor) can crystallize when run out of level. This blocks the flow of "coolant" through the cooling unit causing the "my refrigerator is not cooling" condition.

Turning the refrigerator upside down MAY dislodge the blockage, but it does not dissolve the crystals and it is very likely to "re-block" the cooling unit.

Brett Wolfe

[Guest 2driftrs]

We just replaced our Norcold fridge with a new one after 10 years, but before trashing the old one, we tried the routine mentioned above, more commonly referred to as "burping." Don't waste your time. You might get it working again only to have it fail a short time later.

And, like Tom Butler mentioned, we did investigate using a standard household type fridge, but abandoned the idea because we often stay in locations where there are no hookups. Running the engine or generator to recharge batteries would consume more fuel than running the fridge with propane. We also looked at high output solar panels, but the cost far exceeded the cost of replacing the Norcold fridge with a new one.

[john_harris]

So, over the long haul, is it ok to keep the refrigerator running on shore power while motorhome is stored, say for 3 to 4 weeks between trips, or should we shut it off for those periods between trips. It is nice not to have to load and unload refrigerator every time but if that could shorten the life of unit, it might not be worth it. Any thoughts???

[wolfe10]

So, over the long haul, is it ok to keep the refrigerator running on shore power while motorhome is stored, say for 3 to 4 weeks between trips, or should we shut it off for those periods between trips. It is nice not to have to load and unload refrigerator every time but if that could shorten the life of unit, it might not be worth it. Any thoughts???

John,

There are several things working to shorten the life of your refrigerator. The more of them you address, the longer it will likely live.

Cooling system rust through. In a humid climate, less condensation forms on the metal coils and therefore less rust if the unit is ON (coils stay well above the dew point).

Rust in flue and burner is reduced for the same reason if the unit is ON.

Insect nests in burner tube, flue and even the open areas of the cooling unit are discouraged if the unit is ON.

There are no moving parts in an absorption refrigerator, so you are not "wearing anything out" by leaving it ON.

Conclusion, particularly if stored in a humid climate is leave it ON.

Our original Dometic installed by Foretravel in 1992 finally died (cooling unit leak) early this year after running continuously for over 16 years.

If you live in and store it in the desert, or at a place where you don't want to leave it on, be sure to open the freezer and refrigerator doors and if for a long time, get some fine-mesh nylon screen and cover the roof and side vents to keep insects out. Do NOT leave the fine-mesh screen on when running, it really reduces air flow that is necessary for proper refrigerator function.

Brett Wolfe

[john_harris]

John,

There are several things working to shorten the life of your refrigerator. The more of them you address, the longer it will likely live.

Cooling system rust through. In a humid climate, less condensation forms on the metal coils and therefore less rust if the unit is ON (coils stay well above the dew point).

Rust in flue and burner is reduced for the same reason if the unit is ON.

Insect nests in burner tube, flue and even the open areas of the cooling unit are discouraged if the unit is ON.

There are no moving parts in an absorption refrigerator, so you are not "wearing anything out" by leaving it ON.

Conclusion, particularly if stored in a humid climate is leave it ON.

Our original Dometic installed by Foretravel in 1992 finally died (cooling unit leak) early this year after running continuously for over 16 years.

If you live in and store it in the desert, or at a place where you don't want to leave it on, be sure to open the freezer and refrigerator doors and if for a long time, get some fine-mesh nylon screen and cover the roof and side vents to keep insects out. Do NOT leave the fine-mesh screen on when running, it really reduces air flow that is necessary for proper refrigerator function.

Brett Wolfe

[Cindergal]

One thing that shortened the life of our refrigerator was having the coach catch on fire when it was plugged in to shore power! After several long investigations, it was determined that the cooling unit on the NORCOLD refrigerator was faulty and caused the fire. Our motorhome was totaled and we are optimistic about replacing it. I have not been able to contact anyone else who has had this experience. Anyone out there a victim of fire???

[tbutler]

Norcold has an ongoing recall for their refrigerators. You should go to the Norcold site and check to see if you have one of their refrigerators subject to recall. They have detailed information on what models are affected and where to find the serial number that applies. If you don't find the serial number (not refrigerator serial number, the serial number on the boiler/heater unit on the rear of the unit), check back frequently as they are constantly expanding the list. Your problem may or may not have been related to this recall but it has resulted in many fires. This information is obviously more directed to others who might read this thread. If you can locate the serial number on your model, it might help your insurance company with their case against Norcold. I would expect that insurance companies are aware of this recall.

The fix as I understand it is to install a heat detector which will shut off the refrigerator if it gets too hot.

You should have no problem finding others who have had fires related to Norcold refrigerators.

[Cindergal]

Your advise to everyone to check numbers is spot on; we went to an outing (we were the only couple on foot) and gave a little talk on refrigerator safety. We were shocked at how many people were unaware of the recalls on Norcold. One couple went on line and ran their cooling unit numbers and guess what??! They shut down their unit immediately and made plans to get it repaired.

This recall is nothing to take lightly. I urge everyone (even if you have checked once) to keep checking your serial numbers for recalls for safety reasons. We had just loaned our unit to our son, wife and 2 toddlers; we are fortunate we only lost a motorhome.

[Guest 2driftrs]

Back a few months ago we replaced our Norcold N841 with a new unit. Here's something we found that was quite startling when we pulled the old unit from its' cabinet. There is a flue-like chimney of sorts that directs the heat from the heaters (propane or electric) that runs up the right side of the fridge when viewed from outside. This flue runs up about half the height of the fridge. At the top of this flue is a small piece of metal that acts like a chimney cap, diverting the heat from the flue sideways, or horizontally. You can see a picture of this in the Norcold service manual on page 22. Norcold also calls for a 1/8th inch clearance between the side wall of the fridge and the enclosure.

Folks, there is so much heat coming off that flue that it had scorched the wooden sidewall alongside the top of the flue near that little metal cap! It is not too unrealistic to think this, in part, might be part of the problem. So, when we replaced our unit, we lined the enclosure sides and top right up to the roof vent with thin galvanized sheets. Maybe the problem lies in installation as much as the fridge itself.