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dwightginnyputzke

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Everything posted by dwightginnyputzke

  1. This access cover has been available on school buses for many years.
  2. I just finished redoing eight windows. Here's how I repaired my own windows. 1995 Bounder 35 U Fog or Moisture in Double-Pane Windows -- Removal and Repair The problem will be very expensive if not corrected in the early stages. If the air-tight seal binding the two pieces of glass is compromised, the pressure differential between the glass caused by the sunlight and temperature variations will allow the window to breathe in and out, resulting in condensation with impurities forming on the inner glass. The spacer inside the windows contains a desiccant to absorb moisture, but that will become saturated over time and the glass will become etched and finally become unusable. The sooner the window is repaired dictates the quality of the finished product. Identify the window with a piece of tape. The moisture will come and go in the early stages. The following is a list of what you will need if you are a DO-IT-YOURSELF person and would like to save $100 and more per double glass. You will need: One or two step ladders tall enough to remove the window from the outside of the motor home. Power screwdriver with a torx #20 bit or a variable-speed reversing drill with a torx #20 bit. (I like to use a power tool to remove torx screws because you can push much harder to keep from stripping the heads.) Torx #20 screwdriver (for installing or removing screws ). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SCREWS Razor blade holder and extra new blades Ice pick or awl -- to line up the holes on reassembly 1 Small bottle of hand soap 1 Box cutter with sharp blade Isopropyl rubbing alcohol (to remove black sealer) Thin rubber gloves Protective eye wear Santeen or Rubbermaid lime & rust toilet bowl cleaner (used in attempting to remove some white etching from the glass) Rubbing compound and a power drill with a brissel brush can also be used in the mixture. (caution the splater is acid) Window glass cleaner, newspaper, and cloth towels A flat work table covered with an old blanket or towels Silicon or Caulking to reseal the window frame to the motor home exterior after the repaired window is reinstalled. (NOTE: Do not seal across the water drain slots on the bottom of the frame. Use air pressure yearly to blow dust and crud out of the bottom of all window slide channels and drain slots.) Instructions: 1. Locate a local glass business that is equipped to reseal double glass windows with the correct spacer. Example: 3/16 Super Spacer. 2. Start with the least fogged window. (This will help with the decision of reusing the glass or having the glass company ordering one or both new pieces). Remove all torx screws from the inside window retaining frame. 3. Use a box cutter or razor blade holder to separate the silicone or caulking from the outside edge of the window frame. The caulking itself will be removed later. NOTE: Before installing windows, the motor home manufacturer covered the bottom and halfway up each side of the window opening with a 1 1/2 inch wide sticky and thick black tape that has molded itself to the shape of the window frame. 4. Have a second person on a ladder outside the window to hold the window assembly as you begin to push outward from the inside starting at the top. The bottom of the window will stay in place until the top and sides are completely pushed out of the motor home, but it may take persuasion with dull knife blade or a putty knife or even a flat-blade screw driver to loosen it from the window frame. 5. Complete the window removal from the outside, remembering the assembly will be heavy and awkward as you step down off the ladders and carry the window to your work table. 6. Remove the old caulking from around the opening on your motor home with soapy water and a putty knife, razor blade holder or the edge of a credit card. Remember, the new caulking will cover the area, if you do cause a few scratches. Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol to do the final cleanup before covering the opening with a large trash bag held on with masking tape if stored outside untill the window is ready from the glass repair business. A. Back at your work table, remove the four screws and retainer plate from the frame joint edge to separate it from the glass. The screw heads are covered with sealer that will have to be removed to use the #20 torx power tool. The thin black foam seal will have to be cut 1" away from the joint in the frame and can be glued back together later. If you have a frame with sliding glass, you have two more screws to remove from the center of the top and bottom frame edges. CAUTION: The edge of the tempered glass will not tolerate any pressure of a pry tool directly against the glass while attempting to remove the frame. Use a piece of wood as a shim to protect the glass. Use air pressure to blow the dirt out of the window frame channels. B. You will need your assistant for this step. Remove the problem glass from the frame and stand it upright on the shorter edge. Spread hand soap on the top edge of the glass and sealer holding glass together. Starting at a top corner, gently use a box cutter to separate the spacer from between the double glass. Keep the cutter blade parallel to the glass with cutting pressure against the spacer between the sheets of glass. Continue the soap and cutting procedure until you have separated the spacer from all sides and both pieces of glass. If the glass is a sliding window it will have a metal channel sealed to one edge and it will be the last piece separated from the glass. Not an easy task! Remember don't pry directly on the glass edge. Spread the two pieces of glass apart on the other end to help loosen the seal. (Use a small amount of clear silicone when you refasten it back on the repaired glass. AND DON'T INSTALL THE HANDLE CHANNEL FACING THE WRONG SIDE). C. The old sealer must be cleaned completely off the face and edges of each glass. Use the razor blade holder and isopropyl alcohol on a towel to clean the edges. Use isopropyl alcohol generously and a new razor blade in the holder to carefully remove the old sealer from both sides of each glass. D. Use protective eye wear & rubber gloves & Santeen (or Rubbermaid ) lime & rust toilet bowl cleaner & the razor blade holder & several "new blades" to remove as much etching as possible from each glass. (Used blades will scratch the glass) Use glass cleaner and newspaper to finish cleaning the glass. (Always separate the glass with a towel placed carefully between each glass to avoid scratches.) E. The glass and spacer are now ready to be taken to a glass company that is knowledgeable in repairing double-pane windows. Send a note with the glass stating you want the glass resealed with the etched side out. (After you reinstall the resealed windows you have the option of using an automotive wax to further polish the windows. In 2010 my local glass company charged me $34 to reseal my 20"x30"x1/8" double glass with a 3/16" Super Spacer. Our family has been a member of the Family Motor Coaching Association since 1964 and I sincerely hope that everyone using this information is or will become a member of this great group of people. Send me an e-mail at dsbsi@yahoo.com when you have finished your first window or need more information. Good luck and keep smiling with the money you will save. Dwight
  3. I'm looking for pros & con comments on the "Tandem" brake system for my Subaru. Towing with a 1995 36' Bounder with Ford 460 traveling on all types of roads under all conditions. Tandem Brake's website: http://www.tandemlive.com/english/accueil.htm Does anyone have first hand information on this braking system? F513S
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